OBD2 / CAN adapter

[krbjmpr]

I have gone through 3 OBDLink MX+ in 2 years. Last one they sent in January went sideways last night when leaving work.

Basically, adapter loses ability to connect with tablet / phone and does not show OBD data. I suspect that system voltage (seen top out at 14.9vdc) is what is killing.

Looking for a hardwired solution that is able to drill down into the GM specialty pid and other similar features. I primarily use TorquePro on Galaxy Tab Active2, but can change USB connection types / protocol easily.

Anybody found some gems that can do same as MX+ over a cable vs Bluetooth?

 

[gooffeyguy]

Interesting, I've had my MX+ constantly plugged in for 5 years or so and still works when I connect to it. Sometimes it won't connect to the app so I just unplug it and plug it back in and it connects.

 

[j91z28d1]

isn't that a dongle that can flash tunes?


if you're just trying to read pids, I've had good luck with both of these cheap ones for extended pids for they hybrid stuff which it's none stranded added pids for tq app


links in this thread

torque pro hybrid Battery pids for P0BBD dtc

so pretty much there's no good info out to be found on these trucks. and definitely not in one place. scanners that go deep enough to show data and reset useful stuff aren't cheap or easy to find. the free auto parts store scan is mostly useless besides just giving you a code. as for the...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[j91z28d1]

I had missed the cable part. I don't know if a cable one, but these are cheap enough to be throw away if you fry them

 

[gooffeyguy]

isn't that a dongle that can flash tunes?


if you're just trying to read pids, I've had good luck with both of these cheap ones for extended pids for they hybrid stuff which it's none stranded added pids for tq app


links in this thread

torque pro hybrid Battery pids for P0BBD dtc

so pretty much there's no good info out to be found on these trucks. and definitely not in one place. scanners that go deep enough to show data and reset useful stuff aren't cheap or easy to find. the free auto parts store scan is mostly useless besides just giving you a code. as for the...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

The MX+ doesn't flash tunes, it's just basically a Bluetooth code reader that also reads other various pids, etc

 

[j91z28d1]

The MX+ doesn't flash tunes, it's just basically a Bluetooth code reader that also reads other various pids, etc

ahh. I was thinking of this kinda thing.

does it have a stand alone app with the extended pids preloaded, or do you still manually enter them like you would with torque app?

 

[gooffeyguy]

ahh. I was thinking of this kinda thing.

does it have a stand alone app with the extended pids preloaded, or do you still manually enter them like you would with torque app?

Yes it comes with an app and you can download the extended pids for your vehicle. Don't know what LSDroid is, never used it. Do use Torque Pro though

 

[j91z28d1]

I'm not up on my older ls open source tuning tools. when I had a 02 ls1 they hadn't cracked the obd2 emcs like they had the obd1 stuff. you were stuck with hpt or ls1 edit. both paid apps. now they have like 3 different flash tools for obd2. I think ls drod was just one of them.

my e38 ecm still isn't worth the hassle to the diy guys since the older ls ecms works just fine for swaps. so hpt it is for me too. I only use tuner pro for the old obd1 stuff currently.


sounds like that app with the extended pids probably only works with their dongle. unless they give you access to a list to type into torque app, (I'm still diging around the net for the rear air ride shock pressure pid myself, that and low side ac. other cheap dongles probably won't do much for you. is your obd2 port switched power? if not, you might want to make it so. that's a long time to leave stuff pluged in, most of the chips in them run on 3.3v and you're running a voltage drop circuit 24/7. plus powering sensitive electronic while cranking can have spikes and stuff, I'd wire it so it doesn't get power constantly and not during crank. Just key on.


what are you using tuner pro for? it actually warms my heart a bit to see the old 90s program still being used today

 

[gooffeyguy]

I'm not up on my older ls open source tuning tools. when I had a 02 ls1 they hadn't cracked the obd2 emcs like they had the obd1 stuff. you were stuck with hpt or ls1 edit. both paid apps. now they have like 3 different flash tools for obd2. I think ls drod was just one of them.

my e38 ecm still isn't worth the hassle to the diy guys since the older ls ecms works just fine for swaps. so hpt it is for me too. I only use tuner pro for the old obd1 stuff currently.


sounds like that app with the extended pids probably only works with their dongle. unless they give you access to a list to type into torque app, (I'm still diging around the net for the rear air ride shock pressure pid myself, that and low side ac. other cheap dongles probably won't do much for you. is your obd2 port switched power? if not, you might want to make it so. that's a long time to leave stuff pluged in, most of the chips in them run on 3.3v and you're running a voltage drop circuit 24/7. plus powering sensitive electronic while cranking can have spikes and stuff, I'd wire it so it doesn't get power constantly and not during crank. Just key on.


what are you using tuner pro for? it actually warms my heart a bit to see the old 90s program still being used today

Who are you asking, me or the OP?

If me, the MX+ powers down after like 6-10 minutes after vehicle is shut off. I actually have a BT Dieselworks AutoSync dongle also, along with their OBD splitter cable, and keep the AutoSync hidden up under the dash and have the MX+ plugged into the other side which Replaces the OE OBD port under the dash.

I don't use Tuner Pro, but either OBDLink or Torque Pro.

My 95 mustang is OBD1 and I used a twEECer and software on a laptop to tune it. Can't think of the name at the moment, but I know I also used EEC Analyzer to analyzes logs and give recommendations. Moates Quarter horse keeps popping into my head though for some reason.

EDIT: just remembered the tuning software name is Binary Editor. Also, I did all this back in 2005ish and still have all the software and hardware installed but don't need to use it much unless I decide to change something up, lol

 

[j91z28d1]

good stuff.. yeah I see they say it powers down, I don't know. Just seems like if he's killing them, and it's easy to do. I'd just make the obd2 port switched. mine is like that. no worries when I forget to unplug stuff.

I don't know how you guys can have two things plugged in at once. I never can. if I use the splitter one of the other gets glitches data and faults out. I end up using my splitter use as a right angle extender cable.

weird.

 

[krbjmpr]

I dont use a splitter.

It does stay plugged in except when have to get inspected. Tried to use a splitter then, and was advised was a no-no.

I used a single MX on an F150 for a few years, never a problem. When was driving a Camry, found a cabled elm27 or similar worked great.

Since bought my Yukon, it tears up MX+. I have had the thought that when alternator does its "high charge" of 14.7 to 14.9, if that might be tearing something up. To combat, I have kicked around the idea of using a buck converter to under hood fusebox. That is, until I saw price tag of one that can support halogen headlights, engine fan, AC fan, windows, rear ac fan, etc. Yukon is stock SLT.

Debating on LFP batteries after a Big 5 upgrade. Would need to knock down alternator peak volts. If my target LFP charge termination is 3.45 per cell, then max out on alternator should be 13.8, 14vdc tops. Maybe that would resolve burning up MX+ as well.

I did hear back from OBDLink today. Engineer is going to see what results from previous one I sent in were. But, he does indicate that it appears firmware is pooched, and firmware recovery sees adapter, but can't go any further.

 

[gooffeyguy]

good stuff.. yeah I see they say it powers down, I don't know. Just seems like if he's killing them, and it's easy to do. I'd just make the obd2 port switched. mine is like that. no worries when I forget to unplug stuff.

I don't know how you guys can have two things plugged in at once. I never can. if I use the splitter one of the other gets glitches data and faults out. I end up using my splitter use as a right angle extender cable.

weird.

It may be the splitter. I'm sure they're all not created equal. This is the one I use. Says guaranteed to work with all aftermarket devices and OBD scan tools.

I've left my AutoSync plugged in and just unplugged the MX+ from the under dash port when I take it in to get emissions inspection and haven't had a problem.

OBD port splitter cable

High quality custom OBD port splitter cable 100% guaranteed to work with all aftermarket devices and OBD scan tools. Unlike most OBD splitter cables, our OBD splitter offers a clean install due to the fact that it replaces/bolts in place of your existing OBD port, allowing the secondary tap to...

www.btdieselworks.com

 

[j91z28d1]

It may be the splitter. I'm sure they're all not created equal. This is the one I use. Says guaranteed to work with all aftermarket devices and OBD scan tools.

I've left my AutoSync plugged in and just unplugged the MX+ from the under dash port when I take it in to get emissions inspection and haven't had a problem.

OBD port splitter cable

High quality custom OBD port splitter cable 100% guaranteed to work with all aftermarket devices and OBD scan tools. Unlike most OBD splitter cables, our OBD splitter offers a clean install due to the fact that it replaces/bolts in place of your existing OBD port, allowing the secondary tap to...

www.btdieselworks.com

I might have to pick one up and try it.

 

[j91z28d1]

I dont use a splitter.

It does stay plugged in except when have to get inspected. Tried to use a splitter then, and was advised was a no-no.

I used a single MX on an F150 for a few years, never a problem. When was driving a Camry, found a cabled elm27 or similar worked great.

Since bought my Yukon, it tears up MX+. I have had the thought that when alternator does its "high charge" of 14.7 to 14.9, if that might be tearing something up. To combat, I have kicked around the idea of using a buck converter to under hood fusebox. That is, until I saw price tag of one that can support halogen headlights, engine fan, AC fan, windows, rear ac fan, etc. Yukon is stock SLT.

Debating on LFP batteries after a Big 5 upgrade. Would need to knock down alternator peak volts. If my target LFP charge termination is 3.45 per cell, then max out on alternator should be 13.8, 14vdc tops. Maybe that would resolve burning up MX+ as well.

I did hear back from OBDLink today. Engineer is going to see what results from previous one I sent in were. But, he does indicate that it appears firmware is pooched, and firmware recovery sees adapter, but can't go any further.

you atl voltage is adjustable with a frequency box. it's done on motor swaps where the ecm doesn't control it. little 10$ box on ebay you wire into the 2 wire connector.

most likely you can turn the fault code off with hptuners in the ecm and you'll be good.

then again hpt will let you adjust the alt control. I have hpt but not one of these trucks to check myself. mine doesn't have an alt but I read you can. not sure you can flat line the voltage thou.

 

[krbjmpr]

Wasnt able to find what you mentioned. Do you have a link to such device?

HPTuner would be nice, but need to address issue of failing adapter first.

OBDLink has offered an OBDLink EX, but it doesnt do SW-CAN and I declined. The *EX is cabled, not BT.

Still looking for cabled solution to support SWCan, and MSCan (for my Ford when project is complete).

 

[j91z28d1]

all the info is in here.

2 pin 2006 + alternator. Don't throw it away!! - LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion

Conversions & Swaps - 2 pin 2006 + alternator. Don't throw it away!! - I just swapped the regulator in my alternator from 4 pin to 2 pin, so now it's like a 2006 or newer alternator. Why??? Because GM thinks it's better than the older 4 pin one and they must know something. Oh but everyone says...

ls1tech.com

multi ways to do it but cheapest being ebay.. best being adjust the ecm.

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www.ebay.com

 

[krbjmpr]

Ordered one and received yesterday.
Just got busy with work, will have to wait to play.

We're you using 5vdc or battery voltage? Read up more about the CS alternators, models go both ways. Probably will put my fluke on existing oem harness and see what average and peak voltage to alternator is. Can also determine duty cycle output via ecm as well.

 

[j91z28d1]

Ordered one and received yesterday.
Just got busy with work, will have to wait to play.

We're you using 5vdc or battery voltage? Read up more about the CS alternators, models go both ways. Probably will put my fluke on existing oem harness and see what average and peak voltage to alternator is. Can also determine duty cycle output via ecm as well.

bit of a long story, my yukon doesn't actually have a alternator, it runs off an big old inverter off the hybrid battery pack. 300v to the tranny and ac, 42v to the power steering and 12v for everything else.
I used the 220amp new style alternator on my c6 corvette. they have the old style non pwm control output. Just a wire to reference battery voltage. but it's a crap alternator and can't keep up with stock loads. these new ones are like double the power, but even with hptuners I couldn't get the e38 ecm to control it correctly, so that's why I went down the road of the box to control the voltage. since I have hpt, if I had a normal truck I'd just adjust the ecm settings.

these alternators default to like 13.7v and during the swap I redid all the power wires, moving most of the heavy loads, like cooling fans straight to the alt lug(60amp fused). that and some upgraded ground cable size gave me only a tenth or so drop from battery terminals to alt lug. so I honestly need to get the frequency box wired in, but just haven't done it yet. there's a way to do it cleanly off 12v end output that used to activate the alt but I need get to the ecm wiring to hook it in there and the damn ecm is in behind the fender on those cars. since I don't daily drive it and it's solid voltage wise as is, even loaded over 100 amps at idle with an under drive crank pulley, my motivation has been lacking haha. I'll get to it thou, it's on my list of loose ends to tie up. since I run a agm battery in that car it will be nice to adjust the voltage to.

the pwm hz in to voltage out is in that first thread and it seemed be correct. I could force my ecm to output the freq and the voltage was very close. I just couldn't get it to it on its own, so need to use the box to adjust.