2005 Tahoe z71 squeak

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dpick1

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Hey I’m new here and I believe this to be my first post so sorry if I mess up anything.

I currently have a 2005 Tahoe z71 4x4 that I have recently bought, little less then 195k. I have had work done on it.

One problem that I am noticing now is at very low speeds and pulling away from places and coming to a stop, I have this squeaking sound coming from the front. Constant sound when I’m rolling slowly and doesn’t really change sounds when I go over bumps. I can’t hear it from inside. Only when windows are down, But at higher speeds I can’t hear it. Any ideas?
I had the whole Tahoe looked over and said it was fine about two months ago. They did replace the power steering arm, tie rod. Said everything else was fine and did an alignment.
 

OR VietVet

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Welcome to the forum from Oregon.

Can get the entire vehicle up on 4 jack stands, two under axle tubes close to the end and two under the lower control arms close to the lower ball joints. That puts it in a loaded position. Can put in drive and let idle and see if you can pinpoint. May have a wheel bearing or axle shaft boot rub. Since you said does not change over bumps, I am not suspecting bushings at sway bar or control arms. Get a mechanic's stethoscope to help listen and may have a friend you trust in the driver's seat to accel ever so slightly.
 
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dpick1

dpick1

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Welcome to the forum from Oregon.

Can get the entire vehicle up on 4 jack stands, two under axle tubes close to the end and two under the lower control arms close to the lower ball joints. That puts it in a loaded position. Can put in drive and let idle and see if you can pinpoint. May have a wheel bearing or axle shaft boot rub. Since you said does not change over bumps, I am not suspecting bushings at sway bar or control arms. Get a mechanic's stethoscope to help listen and may have a friend you trust in the driver's seat to accel ever so slightly.
Thanks!
That sounds like a good idea. I will have to get some stands and stethoscope but will give this a shot.
 

OR VietVet

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If there is a local shop with a drive on rack, they likely have the rolling hydraulic lifts that can do exactly what I said and pinpoint the noise. If you buy 4 stands, floor jack and mechanic's stethoscope, that should be more than enough to offset a fee for doing it all at a shop. Guaranteed it is safer too. If you have not done this type of lift and support, you should have a shop do it or have an experienced friend help you. The key is to be safe when all the weight is on the stands.
 
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dpick1

dpick1

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If there is a local shop with a drive on rack, they likely have the rolling hydraulic lifts that can do exactly what I said and pinpoint the noise. If you buy 4 stands, floor jack and mechanic's stethoscope, that should be more than enough to offset a fee for doing it all at a shop. Guaranteed it is safer too. If you have not done this type of lift and support, you should have a shop do it or have an experienced friend help you. The key is to be safe when all the weight is on the stands
That’s a good point. I only have two stands now, some over drive on ramps and a quality jack, But would have to get more stands. Never had a vehicle off the ground on all four wheels. So I think I will take it by my buddies shop and get him to load the suspension and we will try to find the squeaking. Thank you.
 

Joseph Garcia

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Without any additional data, I would suspect a universal joint on one of the drive shafts is going bad.
 
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dpick1

dpick1

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^^ This is highly probable. Propshaft or CV axle. How's the fluid in the front diff?
I just recently drained and filled all the diffs with new fluid and the trans case too. Can I put more/or new grease into the Cv axles? There wouldn’t be grease fittings on CVs?
 
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dpick1

dpick1

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Found out some new things about my squeak tonight.

Still squeaking as before but I clicked into 4wd drive at a low coasting speed. The squeak went away. Then this grinding could be heard and felt in the floor boards when I came to a stop. Also less noise and grinding sound when I started to speed up, but I could still hear it. Finally switching out of
4high to 2high. No speak for about 100 ish feet then squeak is back. What about that? Still bad CVs and prop shaft? Or is the front diff roasted.

Have not had time to get the tahoe on a lift yet.
 

Tonyrodz

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I know the nbs transfer cases have a problem with rub through. Get under and look at the transfer case. That grinding is probably coming from there.
 

OR VietVet

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Found out some new things about my squeak tonight.

Still squeaking as before but I clicked into 4wd drive at a low coasting speed. The squeak went away. Then this grinding could be heard and felt in the floor boards when I came to a stop. Also less noise and grinding sound when I started to speed up, but I could still hear it. Finally switching out of
4high to 2high. No speak for about 100 ish feet then squeak is back. What about that? Still bad CVs and prop shaft? Or is the front diff roasted.

Have not had time to get the tahoe on a lift yet.
Right now you are hearing the noise when you are in cab and driving. The way to pinpoint is to do as I suggested with the mechanic's stethoscope or take to a shop and get in the air on a drive on rack and listen.
 

WoodaWelder79

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That’s a good point. I only have two stands now, some over drive on ramps and a quality jack, But would have to get more stands. Never had a vehicle off the ground on all four wheels. So I think I will take it by my buddies shop and get him to load the suspension and we will try to find the squeaking. Thank you.
First of all YOU DO NOT SWITCH FROM 2wd to 4wd while in motion. You should be completely stopped. This will save your trans!! Grinding you hear are the gears in your trans bc of the abuse.
 

Fless

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First of all YOU DO NOT SWITCH FROM 2wd to 4wd while in motion. You should be completely stopped. This will save your trans!! Grinding you hear are the gears in your trans bc of the abuse.

The switch isn't made (effected) by the trans, it's done by the transfer case. If the OP has the 2 speed transfer case (NP246e), the internal workings (read: clutch packs) allow for on-the-fly mode switching except for in/out of the 4LO mode.
 

OR VietVet

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The switch isn't made (effected) by the trans, it's done by the transfer case. If the OP has the 2 speed transfer case (NP246e), the internal workings (read: clutch packs) allow for on-the-fly mode switching except for in/out of the 4LO mode.
I do have the NVG246 t-case and I have switched from 2hi to 4hi with no hiccups but I have never shifted on the "fly" so to speak in to 4lo. I have been moving under 10 mph and again, with no problems and even stopped to go to 4lo. Either way I have done it, I have had no problems. On my other GM trucks, with the floor shift, I could float the 2hi to 4hi shift and was ok but I never moved when shifting to 4lo.
 

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