03 Z71 Tahoe with 4" RC NTD lift still rides kinda rough

[76Nick]

Ok guys so as talked about in a previous post, I installed a 4" Rough Country NTD front lift for a Silverado on my 2003 Tahoe Z71. I went from a 3" torsion key/spacer lift. I liked the ride height but the ride quality was trash as you all know. I really hoped that a NTD lift would give me closer to factory ride quality but that doesn't seem to be the case. Truck has 2" torsion keys (thats what my truck came with) but they aren't cranked. If I loosened the bolts any more there would be no tension at all on the keys. Truck also has tubular 2-4" lift upper control arms I put in when I did the 3" torsion lift. Currently using the RC n3 front shocks. Has all new ball joints, wheel bearings, tie rods. 33x12.50 18" tires. The ride quality isn't as bad as 3" torsion keys but its still pretty bumpy and more rough than it should be. Maybe due to the 2" keys or RC shocks? Anyone have any thoughts or ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Fless]

How about a pic of a lower control arm where the jounce stop is?

 

[76Nick]

Drivers side looks like its dropped down more but the keys are adjusted the same amount on both sides and the wheel well spacing is the same from drivers to passenger side.

 

[76Nick]

Anyone have any ideas where my issue lies?

 

[BlaineBug]

Is it riding on the bumpstops at normal ride height or are you "flexing" the suspension for your pictures?

 

[randeez]

yea, im confused why you are trying to decrank the torsion bars more? you need to get it off the bump stops to begin with and see how it rides. you may have to find some stock keys if youre trying to only run 3-4" of lift? not sure never messed with torsion bar front end
the RC shocks should be fine for a while since you already have them.

 

[Fless]

On a stock frontend suspension you WANT the lower control arms to contact the jounce stops; that's a pivot point for the fulcrum effect. Not sure why it would be any different for a modified suspension.

 

[BlaineBug]

On a stock frontend suspension you WANT the lower control arms to contact the jounce stops; that's a pivot point for the fulcrum effect. Not sure why it would be any different for a modified suspension.

Only at full suspension compression though - not at all times. To elaborate further, the suspension should be set up in a way where the bump stops are just about never used unless in very rare and extreme circumstances. There would be no harsher ride possible (unless the bump stops fell out) if you were contacting the bump stops frequently OR riding on them all of the time. At that point the bumpstop is supporting all of the weight, you have no suspension to speak of.

 

[Fless]

Only at full suspension compression though - not at all times. To elaborate further, the suspension should be set up in a way where the bump stops are just about never used unless in very rare and extreme circumstances. There would be no harsher ride possible (unless the bump stops fell out) if you were contacting the bump stops frequently OR riding on them all of the time. At that point the bumpstop is supporting all of the weight, you have no suspension to speak of.

That applies to the rear bump stops. I'm talking about the jounce stops in front.

Front Bump Stop Issue

Previous owner hacked off the front bump stop cups and I am having a helluva time find some sort of replacement to bolt In. Truck is an 01 Tahoe with belltech drop spindles, Purple Keys and Stock replacement shocks. The front end bounces really bad and sways when going over bumps and dips...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[randeez]

On a stock frontend suspension you WANT the lower control arms to contact the jounce stops; that a pivot point for the fulcrum effect. Not sure why it would be any different for a modified suspension.

hmph....today I learned
Would a new jounce stop help in this case?

 

[Fless]

I doubt it, unless yours are too stiff.

 

[randeez]

I doubt it, unless yours are too stiff.

i mean in this case running 3" keys with the lift kit, may not be enough preload/tension on the torsion bars a couple cranks and a thicker jounce

 

[BlaineBug]

That applies to the rear bump stops. I'm talking about the jounce stops in front.

Front Bump Stop Issue

Previous owner hacked off the front bump stop cups and I am having a helluva time find some sort of replacement to bolt In. Truck is an 01 Tahoe with belltech drop spindles, Purple Keys and Stock replacement shocks. The front end bounces really bad and sways when going over bumps and dips...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

I was either under the impression that jounce stops were another name for bump stops, or that jounce stops may be airbags. From the picture that just looks like a standard rubber bump stop.

 

[BlaineBug]

yea, im confused why you are trying to decrank the torsion bars more? you need to get it off the bump stops to begin with and see how it rides. you may have to find some stock keys if youre trying to only run 3-4" of lift? not sure never messed with torsion bar front end
the RC shocks should be fine for a while since you already have them.

It looks like he has brackets that drop the front subframe away from the torsion bar's original mount, so if he is ALSO running torsion bars intended for lift and isn't satisfied with the tall stature, he needs to pick one or the other. Personally if I wanted minimal lift and minimal points of failure I'd ditch the drop brackets and use the aftermarket torsion bars alone. Sometimes drop brackets restore OEM factory ride height handling on a lifted truck though - it depends on their design.

If his truck is sitting at normal unloaded ride height and front or rear, any bump stop is contacting, he is going to have a harsh ride. Bump stops are intended as a last resort to keep the tire from smashing your inner or outer fenders and/or the body of the vehicle when the suspension jounces to its most compressed state.

 

[Fless]

If his truck is sitting at normal unloaded ride height and front or rear, any bump stop is contacting, he is going to have a harsh ride. Bump stops are intended as a last resort to keep the tire from smashing your inner or outer fenders and/or the body of the vehicle when the suspension jounces to its most compressed state.

The front jounce stops should be contacting the lower control arms at ride height.

 

[BlaineBug]

Weird. In that case it seems like neither the torsion bars nor the shock are actually providing any ride quality if you're riding on a rubber bushing, essentially.

 

[BlaineBug]

The front jounce stops should be contacting the lower control arms at ride height.

OP should look at this article I guess. It appears as though barely touching is acceptable as you say. https://www.gmfullsize.com/threads/my-truck-is-sitting-on-the-front-bump-stops.209725/

 

[Fless]

From https://www.dieselplace.com/threads/remove-bump-stops.445320/

 

[BlaineBug]

I stand corrected.

 

[76Nick]

Sorry guys, I didn't mean to abandon my post....have been dealing with some things. Thd torsion bars are stock, the keys are not as stated. 2" lift I believe. I didn't have OE keys to put in. The Rough Country NTD kit is supposed to give factory ride quality. Possibly new Jounce stops? Could mine be worn from having a cranked torsion key lift previously? Or try loading my keys a little more? Maybe there is not enough tension so the truck is sitting down too far on the Jounce stops?