ivin74
05 NBS Nali
Why didn't you sand the back of it until the grill openings when visible.
What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
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treehan77
TYF Fiend
yeah I used a dremel and it took forever to cut out every little slot, but it worked!
mattbta
Full Access Member
Did not know you could do that. Oh well.
The wheels I tried made a flaky mess and I lost patience quickly. Did you use the OEM rear sub box? If so, how did you end up mounting? The bolt for the jack tools interferes and I'm about to take an angle grinder to it.
ivin74
05 NBS Nali
Changed out the horn contacts and was still having issues with the horn not working. I inspected the contact location points on the steering wheel and they were not making a good connection w the new horn contacts. I file them down bit and that solved the issue.
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Logan5
Full Access Member
Exhaust manifold leak part 2. Unbolted the manifold again to try to see why its leaking from the gasket. Got a straight edge and checked to see if I had warpage.
Found some corrosion that was giving me a gap.
Doesn't look like much but it was enough to give me the leak.
A little grinding/sanding later...
Ok back together, O2 readings back to normal, fuel trim back to normal.
Found some corrosion that was giving me a gap.
Doesn't look like much but it was enough to give me the leak.
A little grinding/sanding later...
Ok back together, O2 readings back to normal, fuel trim back to normal.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Hush boy, u wouldn’t know wut it’s like living in this salty s h i T t y state…. I’d take missing wire loom over rust on eerythang any day…
iamdub
Full Access Member
Rust? Oh. I thought he had his ivory dealer hook him up with manifolds of coral.
BTW, I fixed my crusty loom during your hiatus
Growing up doesn't have to suck
Didn't like that back to back 90 for flow anyway, glad it didn't work lol Valid point. I disregarded this factor due to my low power levels. Do like that gto hose tho, I've seen it before and thought it worked good but forgot where it came from Got this one off Amazon. I think it's the...
www.tahoeyukonforum.com
ivin74
05 NBS Nali
mattbta
Full Access Member
Pics after install, please.
mattbta
Full Access Member
Will someone tell Al Gore we are tired of the heat? This summer has been third hottest. Do.not.like.
Put everything back together. Still need to figure out how to run the RCA from the front, but power and remote turn on are under the left sill plates. Future Matt’s problem.
It’s obviously not competition but good enough for me, for now.
Put everything back together. Still need to figure out how to run the RCA from the front, but power and remote turn on are under the left sill plates. Future Matt’s problem.
It’s obviously not competition but good enough for me, for now.
Today I tried dropping the transmission pan. I didn't get past the removal of the shift linkage bracket. I was able to get a torx 40 into the bolts nice and snug but couldn't get any room to turn the ratchet. I found a "how to" to disconnect the front drive shaft to get some more room. Is there anything I need to by disconnecting and reconnecting other then lining everything back up correctly?
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treehan77
TYF Fiend
Same place I put my amp nicely doneWill someone tell Al Gore we are tired of the heat? This summer has been third hottest. Do.not.like.
Put everything back together. Still need to figure out how to run the RCA from the front, but power and remote turn on are under the left sill plates. Future Matt’s problem.
View attachment 407112View attachment 407113
It’s obviously not competition but good enough for me, for now.
Scott in AZ
Full Access Member
I thought long and hard about that cubby but ended up installing that same amp under the cup holder because was concerned about heat buildup. Are you going to install some type of louvre vent to get some air on there? Since the cooling fan is on the bottom you might want to ride it up just a little on spacers. Good clean setup. Overall though. Nice work on the sub. Here’s my amp and subWill someone tell Al Gore we are tired of the heat? This summer has been third hottest. Do.not.like.
Put everything back together. Still need to figure out how to run the RCA from the front, but power and remote turn on are under the left sill plates. Future Matt’s problem.
View attachment 407112View attachment 407113
It’s obviously not competition but good enough for me, for now.
Attachments
latvius
Full Access Member
I mark the driveshaft with paint or chalk so the yoke lines up with the shaft the way it was. Just undo the ubolts and you have to pry the driveshaft rearward to clear the yoke. Those short swivel ratchets can help in tight areas like those torx are located.
mattbta
Full Access Member
Cheers!
I'm still engineering in my mind what I want to do. It isn't secured right now and while the frame provides the 1/4" air gap the manual states is required, it doesn't do two things: allow enough airflow (IMO) nor make it easy for me to tweak the settings since it requires a tiny flathead.
My buddy has some fancy (read expensive) 3D printers that I'd like to come up with a solution and try printing. However, I'm not able to explain enough over text message for him to understand the goal. I will look around on thingiverse and maybe download a CAD program or something.
My Bose Lux amp and subwoofer are in the center console where you have yours, so that wasn't an option. Sure would have made for shorter power run!
Thanks for the tips! I'll pick up one of those smaller ratchets and go from there.
CHOCK THE WHEELS BEFORE PULLING THE DRIVESHAFT
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Good advice right dere!
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