Knock Sensor - P0332 w/engine light.

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donjetman

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My $30 scan tool says "Knock sensor 2 circuit low bank 2". I clear it and it comes right back. Vehicle runs great no other issues. 172k miles. What do y'all think? Change the pax side knock sensor and harness?
 

Rocket Man

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Please don’t mind my ignorance, but what is the pigtails connecting to? Am I cutting off the existing plug and splicing on the new pigtail?
Yes if you buy pigtails, you’ll have to cut the wires, solder the pigtails on, and use heat shrink preferably or electrical tape. But I see no need to go to this extreme unless the connectors are corroded. Is that the case? If not, I wouldn’t worry about it. Just install the new sensors and see if that fixes it.
 

Larry07Yukon

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Yes if you buy pigtails, you’ll have to cut the wires, solder the pigtails on, and use heat shrink preferably or electrical tape. But I see no need to go to this extreme unless the connectors are corroded. Is that the case? If not, I wouldn’t worry about it. Just install the new sensors and see if that fixes it.
I don’t know, it’s been cold and snowing so I haven’t looked at the connector

I‘ll order the pigtails and if the stock ones are shot I’ll replace, if not I’ll return them

i have solder, heat shrink tubing and everything needed to make a good connection
 

Larry07Yukon

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Oh, is P0332 driver side or passenger side? I’ll change both but do one at a time in hopes to not set off the CEL
 
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donjetman

donjetman

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My $30 scan tool says "Knock sensor 2 circuit low bank 2". I clear it and it comes right back. Vehicle runs great no other issues. 172k miles. What do y'all think? Change the pax side knock sensor and harness?
*P0332 UPDATE* I started this thread, and after a fresh load of premium unleaded engine check light hasn't been back. I didn't change anything else.
 

Rocket Man

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*P0332 UPDATE* I started this thread, and after a fresh load of premium unleaded engine check light hasn't been back. I didn't change anything else.
That’s awesome. Nothing like a problem that fixes itself.:happy107:
 

Dustin Jackson

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I’ve had to replace a lot of old connectors recently on my 94 k1500, specifically splicing behind the intake which is a PITA laying on top of the motor, these solder seal connectors have been a life saver. Not sure what the consensus is on these but they seem to be a quick way to get the job done. Just cut, expose your wire, slip one of these over, and then hit it with a torch or heat gun and it’s officially spliced soldered and sealed.

140 PCS Solder Seal Wire Connectors - Sopoby Heat Shrink Solder Connectors - Electrical Solder Butt Connectors - Insulated Waterproof Solder Connector Terminal Kit Marine Automotive Home Wiring https://a.co/d/0CLNpOW
 

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