Tonyrodz's Tahoe Build Thread

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Wow man, that hub bearing was gone! You didn’t smell brake pad long before it started making noise? When the bearing starts going out you can usually tell because the vehicle will pull to the bad side due to the rotor contacting the inside brake pad because the tire and rotor are tipped in at the top. Most complaints are pulls to one side especially when hitting the brakes and/or smell of brake material after a drive.
Glad you got it before you really had a issue and stranded ya road side. I believe it was such a PITA because it got so hot and caused the hub to swell in the knuckle. Rust can’t really form on the mating surface or in the bore because it’s such tight tolerance. Most of the time the thing is hard to remove due to heat. When you have aluminum knuckle and carbon steel hub it sticks due to bimetallic corrosion, the corrosion of a metal, the anode, results from the positive current flowing from the anode to the less reactive metal, the cathode, through the electrolyte. Those can be a bear just like I went thru pulling the trans on her Caddy.
Good work as always. Persistence over resistance and it helps having these guys as your cheering section and giving advise. I always like the way you listen to what is being said and are willing to take advise when given. Kudos to you all.
 
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Tonyrodz

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Wow man, that hub bearing was gone! You didn’t smell brake pad long before it started making noise? When the bearing starts going out you can usually tell because the vehicle will pull to the bad side due to the rotor contacting the inside brake pad because the tire and rotor are tipped in at the top. Most complaints are pulls to one side especially when hitting the brakes and/or smell of brake material after a drive.
Glad you got it before you really had a issue and stranded ya road side. I believe it was such a PITA because it got so hot and caused the hub to swell in the knuckle. Rust can’t really form on the mating surface or in the bore because it’s such tight tolerance. Most of the time the thing is hard to remove due to heat. When you have aluminum knuckle and carbon steel hub it sticks due to bimetallic corrosion, the corrosion of a metal, the anode, results from the positive current flowing from the anode to the less reactive metal, the cathode, through the electrolyte. Those can be a bear just like I went thru pulling the trans on her Caddy.
Good work as always. Persistence over resistance and it helps having these guys as your cheering section and giving advise. I always like the way you listen to what is being said and are willing to take advise when given. Kudos to you all.
Yeah man getting it off was a pita. Weird thing-- I didn't smell any brakes the whole ride(40 miles round trip)and it wasn't pulling. I'm just glad all is well now. I'm well prepared for the other side if it gives me an issue.
 

07Burb

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Yeah man getting it off was a pita. Weird thing-- I didn't smell any brakes the whole ride(40 miles round trip)and it wasn't pulling. I'm just glad all is well now. I'm well prepared for the other side if it gives me an issue.
You should replace now regardless. Normally you replace things like that in pairs.
 

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Took the truck for a drive today and I heard a very low grinding noise. I thought it was the ds cv axle finally giving up the ghost. The boot has been torn for a few years. Got out and looked underneath, nothing jumped out at me, so I said F it. Drove it about 40 miles round trip. Seemed to be getting louder as I was getting closer to home. Got out and looked at the wheel and noticed the outer edge of the rotor was getting a little scored, so I thought maybe something with the brakes on that side. Get home and take everything apart. View attachment 352350
I started moving the axle around and it started raining these bearings.View attachment 352351
The rotor doesn't look too bad. I'm thinking I might be able to slap the brakes back together without having to clean up the rotor. Suggestions on that?
There's just a little bit of play.

This is when I put the wheel back on. Think there's 3 lugs holding it with them tight.
Factree..!
 

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Great work on that hub T..! You’re so lucky it didn’t come apart while you were driving..! I’m getting ready to order these, so I have them on my -to do- list. Looking at part SP500300 for the Timkens… oddly, the Amazon link says the country of origin is fxcking China..! Can you confirm: Is this the part you used, and -is it from fxcking China…?!??

ETA: pretty sure that’s the only / correct part for my Yukon (4WD), but I was shocked to see the China origin.. on another note, RA has it for about $50 less / each side, than Amazon. Wish they would still ship to me here in shxtty Colorado.
 
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OR VietVet

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MAFand MAP?

Great work on that hub T..! You’re so lucky it didn’t come apart while you were driving..! I’m getting ready to order these, so I have them on my -to do- list. Looking at part SP500300 for the Timkens… oddly, the Amazon link says the country of origin is fxcking China..! Can you confirm: Is this the part you used, and -is it from fxcking China…?!??

ETA: pretty sure that’s the only / correct part for my Yukon (4WD), but I was shocked to see the China origin.. on another note, RA has it for about $50 less / each side, than Amazon. Wish they would still ship to me here in shxtty Colorado.

 

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Tonyrodz

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Great work on that hub T..! You’re so lucky it didn’t come apart while you were driving..! I’m getting ready to order these, so I have them on my -to do- list. Looking at part SP500300 for the Timkens… oddly, the Amazon link says the country of origin is fxcking China..! Can you confirm: Is this the part you used, and -is it from fxcking China…?!??

ETA: pretty sure that’s the only / correct part for my Yukon (4WD), but I was shocked to see the China origin.. on another note, RA has it for about $50 less / each side, than Amazon. Wish they would still ship to me here in shxtty Colorado.
Unfortunately it is made in China, but so far no issues--unfortunately I don't drive it much anymore. So far no issues tho.
You can get a new one for $85.
 

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Tonyrodz

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Truck is running pretty ****** again. Kind of like when the O2 sensor was getting lazy. Does anyone see anything strange? I just realized I didn't get the other O2 sensor.
 

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