Feels likes wheels are going to come off

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Shtiv

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Just replaced shocks on vehicle and upper control arm, then had an alignment done on vehicle and about a week later i have pulling and a wobble (feels like wheels are going to come off) that comes and goes but has me nervous to the point i do not want to drive it. I looked around backside of wheels at the components and everything looks put together and tight. Looking for ideas on what it could be.
 

Cbncanada

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See if you can move the wheels side to side by hand to feel if they seem loose. If not take it back to the alignment shop and have them check it. If they feel loose, check the wheel nuts for tightness and get the bearings looked at.
 
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Shtiv

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Was just at the tire shop today. Going to put on Jack’s to check the bearings, not i replaced both wheel hubs a few months ago, almost everything is new as far as suspension, brakes, bearings, Axel’s, control arms, etc. thank you for the suggestions.
 
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Shtiv

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The strange thing is i noticed after i got a flat tire on passenger rear. The air ride compressor hasn’t been working, wondering if that may cause this sensation?
 

Rocket Man

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Haha, upper control arms and wheel hubs.
I had a feeling. I hate to break this to you but there have been several members here who used their parts and had major failures soon after installing them including one who a actually DID have a wheel come off when a hub came apart. Luckily they didn’t crash but it’s scary to think of it happening on the freeway. There’s an old saying- you get what you pay for and steering or suspension isn’t a place to cut costs imo. For hubs Timken or ACDelco OEM are the recommended brands. I would replace the Detroit Axle parts with something decent before your wheels do indeed fall off. Rack it up as a lesson learned. You just wasted some money but so far nothing catastrophic has happened.
 

S33k3r

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I had a feeling. I hate to break this to you but there have been several members here who used their parts and had major failures soon after installing them including one who a actually DID have a wheel come off when a hub came apart. Luckily they didn’t crash but it’s scary to think of it happening on the freeway. There’s an old saying- you get what you pay for and steering or suspension isn’t a place to cut costs imo. For hubs Timken or ACDelco OEM are the recommended brands. I would replace the Detroit Axle parts with something decent before your wheels do indeed fall off. Rack it up as a lesson learned. You just wasted some money but so far nothing catastrophic has happened.
AC Delco may not be the way to go, either:

https://gmauthority.com/blog/2021/03/acdelco-facing-lawsuit-over-made-in-usa-claim-on-packaging/

https://toolingfun.com/moog-vs-acdelco-professional-suspension-parts/
 
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Shtiv

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Putting it on Jack’s right now to check the wheels for movement. To better describe what it feels like when driving, i would describe it as if I’m driving on ice, as if the alignment is way off, using the word “wobble” may Not best describe it.
 
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Shtiv

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Wheels don’t wiggle when put on Jack’s, however, there seems to be a lot of play where the Axel connects to the front differential and notice what appears to be some kind of fluid possibly leaking around it.....???? I posted a picture, it's the driver's side front. I'm guessing the play is not normal since there is QUITE a bit. Trying to find info on a possible rebuild.

D70E6404-4710-4628-8A59-B709EE787B19.jpeg
 
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Rocket Man

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A class action over wording on the packaging as in that first link is nothing. They’ve been manufacturing parts all over the world forever just like every other manufacturer. It’s not where they’re made, it’s the quality control. With ACDelco Advantage line or Moog’s RK series of parts are both made to compete with the cheap no name Chinese parts, don’t buy either one. They’re crap, and the old saying “you get what you pay for” is true here too. So Moog’s CK line is designed to be “better than OEM” thus the Problem Solver designation. They find a problem in an OEM design and improve on it. At least that’s the gist. But either ACDelco’s Professional or OEM line or Moog’s CK “Problem Solver” lines are great quality.

Just because the part is made in a certain country doesn’t mean it’s an inferior part anymore. But quality costs money so if you’re buying in the lower end of pricing, that’s why. Timken’s have been produced in several countries and their quality is top notch. And thus they’re not cheap.
 
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Shtiv

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A class action over wording on the packaging as in that first link is nothing. They’ve been manufacturing parts all over the world forever just like every other manufacturer. It’s not where they’re made, it’s the quality control. With ACDelco Advantage line or Moog’s RK series of parts are both made to compete with the cheap no name Chinese parts, don’t buy either one. They’re crap, and the old saying “you get what you pay for” is true here too. So Moog’s CK line is designed to be “better than OEM” thus the Problem Solver designation. They find a problem in an OEM design and improve on it. At least that’s the gist. But either ACDelco’s Professional or OEM line or Moog’s CK “Problem Solver” lines are great quality.

Just because the part is made in a certain country doesn’t mean it’s an inferior part anymore. But quality costs money so if you’re buying in the lower end of pricing, that’s why. Timken’s have been produced in several countries and their quality is top notch. And thus they’re not cheap.
Thank you! It does appear that it might be the front diff that is the culprit, there is major play where the Axel bolts to it. Seeking info On rebuilding it.
 

Rocket Man

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Thank you! It does appear that it might be the front diff that is the culprit, there is major play where the Axel bolts to it. Seeking info On rebuilding it.
The front diff shouldn’t make it feel like the wheels are falling off. That sounds like hubs.
 
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Shtiv

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The front diff shouldn’t make it feel like the wheels are falling off. That sounds like hubs.
I would describe it like losing control temporary from a patch of ice on the road, a uncontrolled pull.
 

Rocket Man

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I find it highly suspect that you installed Detroit Axle hubs and upper control arm and right afterwards you have issues with your steering or suspension. Go read their BBB complaints where they have an F rating, or their Yelp reviews of which 80% are one star. Do some googling regarding accidents caused by their parts suddenly falling apart shortly after install. And if you want to leave them on your truck afterwards, just remember you have been notified. Good luck.

https://www.bbb.org/us/mi/ferndale/profile/new-auto-parts/detroit-axle-0332-90015722/complaints

https://www.yelp.com/biz/detroit-axle-ferndale
 

Woodblocker55

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Was moog front bearing hubs have any issues . I put them on front of 2006 gmc Yukon xl so far they seen ok . I do have 8 ply tires have typical Wear but even.. steers good .
I do have BBB steering box and power steering pump also no issues . So these parts might be a roll of the dice deal . After I got air out of the power steering pump steering box and hyroboost . All was perfectly quiet. I could see if you didn't bleed the air out over time you'd have issues.

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drno4

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For hubs Timken or ACDelco OEM are the recommended brands. I would replace the Detroit Axle parts with something decent before your wheels do indeed fall off. Rack it up as a lesson learned. You just wasted some money but so far nothing catastrophic has happened.

+1 on this. Would highly recommend redoing it (or having it redone). I've done Timken hubs and speed sensor assemblies on our 03 Yukon Denali XL and have been pleased.
 
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Shtiv

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I have only two ideas of what the problem is, and I do suppose it could be the wheel bearings, but I'm thinking that's not the cause. Rather, I believe it's the carrier bearing in the front diff, or that the air ride compressor is not working. For the air ride, the fuses appear to be good, the relay is good, I removed the relay and jumped 30 and 87 to send power to the compressor, and I heard it, so the compressor is good. Running out of ideas on the air ride issue, I suppose a bad module maybe?? Also, there are NO service lights on and no codes. The compressor is brand new, replacing one that ran until it burnt up, the shocks are also brand new.
 

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