Front caliper banjo bolt torque specs?
- Thread starter jyi786
- Start date
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My shop manual says 30 ft/lb
According to Alldata, it's 30 ft. lbs.
Thanks so much! That's the confirmation I needed!
Here are all of them, cut and pasted.
Brake Caliper Bleeder Screw - 12 N.m - 106 lb in
Brake Caliper Bracket Mounting Bolt, Front (1500 Series) - 200 N.m - 148 lb ft
Brake Caliper Bracket Mounting Bolt, Front (2500 Series) - 300 N.m - 221 lb ft
Brake Caliper Bracket Mounting Bolt, Rear (1500 Series) - 165 N.m - 122 lb ft
Brake Caliper Bracket Mounting Bolt, Rear (2500 Series) - 200 N.m - 148 lb ft
Brake Caliper Guide Pin Bolt, Front (1500 Series) - 100 N.m - 74 lb ft
Brake Caliper Guide Pin Bolt, Front (2500 Series) - 108 N.m - 80 lb ft
Brake Caliper Guide Pin Bolt, Rear (1500 Series) - 38 N.m - 28 lb ft
Brake Caliper Guide Pin Bolt, Rear (2500 Series) - 108 N.m - 80 lb ft
Brake Disc Retaining Screw (1500 Series) - 12 N.m - 106 lb in
Brake Hose to Caliper Bolt (1500 Series) - 40 N.m - 30 lb ft
Brake Hose to Caliper Bolt (2500 Series) - 45 N.m - 33 lb ft
Brake Caliper Bleeder Screw - 12 N.m - 106 lb in
Brake Caliper Bracket Mounting Bolt, Front (1500 Series) - 200 N.m - 148 lb ft
Brake Caliper Bracket Mounting Bolt, Front (2500 Series) - 300 N.m - 221 lb ft
Brake Caliper Bracket Mounting Bolt, Rear (1500 Series) - 165 N.m - 122 lb ft
Brake Caliper Bracket Mounting Bolt, Rear (2500 Series) - 200 N.m - 148 lb ft
Brake Caliper Guide Pin Bolt, Front (1500 Series) - 100 N.m - 74 lb ft
Brake Caliper Guide Pin Bolt, Front (2500 Series) - 108 N.m - 80 lb ft
Brake Caliper Guide Pin Bolt, Rear (1500 Series) - 38 N.m - 28 lb ft
Brake Caliper Guide Pin Bolt, Rear (2500 Series) - 108 N.m - 80 lb ft
Brake Disc Retaining Screw (1500 Series) - 12 N.m - 106 lb in
Brake Hose to Caliper Bolt (1500 Series) - 40 N.m - 30 lb ft
Brake Hose to Caliper Bolt (2500 Series) - 45 N.m - 33 lb ft
Oldewing
Member
NEW crush washers too
but since you took the time to look up how tight, you prolly aready have new washers....
but since you took the time to look up how tight, you prolly aready have new washers....
Absolutely, I've got 12 new crush washers.
Update: did the brakes yesterday, and I learned this the hard way (almost). I'm pretty sure it is 30 in. lbs. and NOT ft. lbs.
As I was torquing the bolt down, I felt it become super tight and then severely weaken. Since the head was in tight, I left it, but then I had this nagging suspicion that I didn't trust it, so I took it out.
Lo and behold, the new banjo bolt was semi-sheared and deformed from the top. Any further, I would have definitely broken it off in the caliper hole. Thankfully, I reused the old banjo bolt (with the new crush washers, of course), and this time, I started to ramp up the torquing instead of just going straight at it. The bolt almost started to do the same thing, but I backed off immediately.
All is well. New calipers and stainless steel hoses have been installed and tested successfully. Thanks so much again guys!
As I was torquing the bolt down, I felt it become super tight and then severely weaken. Since the head was in tight, I left it, but then I had this nagging suspicion that I didn't trust it, so I took it out.
Lo and behold, the new banjo bolt was semi-sheared and deformed from the top. Any further, I would have definitely broken it off in the caliper hole. Thankfully, I reused the old banjo bolt (with the new crush washers, of course), and this time, I started to ramp up the torquing instead of just going straight at it. The bolt almost started to do the same thing, but I backed off immediately.
All is well. New calipers and stainless steel hoses have been installed and tested successfully. Thanks so much again guys!
Bummer, man. That sucks. If it helps, I just re-checked the torque spec and it's indeed listed as ft. lbs. for the banjo bolt
Reminds me of one of my favorite sayings: "If you can't fix it, force it. If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway."
That is a bummer. Makes me feel bad I looked it up in the shop manual. If you didn't have it, you likely wouldn't have ruined that banjo bolt (or worse had you not used your experience to know something wasn't right).
Like Dave, I went back to my source and confirmed it was ft/lbs. That is filed away in my head for the next time I am working on the brakes.
You all definitely helped me out, can't fault you for that, totally grateful. 
This is just more for info; I just hope anyone who comes across this thread does it in time before they change their caliper and then royally screw something up because of the little banjo bolt!
This is just more for info; I just hope anyone who comes across this thread does it in time before they change their caliper and then royally screw something up because of the little banjo bolt!One thing that crossed my mind, what material were the crush washers? I am wondering if too soft a crush washer material could screw up the torque specs?
All the crush washers I have are directly from GM. They are copper; very soft.
I was just wondering if the material were soft enough, it might allow the screw to bottom, taking some contact area in the threads (and strength of the fastener body) out of the torque/yield equation. Just guessing as it really is a head scratcher.
Actually, that's what was surprising. When I took the set off, after the first banjo bolt got screwed up, I actually was able to REUSE the new crush washers after the first install attempt because they were in immaculate condition. Like they weren't even "crushed".
Very strange indeed. I wonder if maybe the bolts weren't the proper material, improper heat treating or maybe knock-offs?
Yeah, that's my worry also. I would be hesitant to put any pressurized component in my braking system that couldn't hold up to the factory torque specs. Because if it fails, it will do so when it's under the greatest pressure load, such as under emergency braking. I'd be inclined to order a new bolt from GM and swap it out if it were my truck.
The bolts and crush washers were straight from GM.
Banjo bolt: PN #11569669
Banjo bolt washer: PN #21012386
I hear you about the emergency braking. That's why I took it out yesterday after I was done, and gradually braked, until I was confident enough. I then took it to 70+ MPH and stomped on the brake to bring it down to zero. I did this about 7-8 times. I've never felt my truck ever stop better; it almost stops like a small car would. I actually have to be more judicious now compared to before with brake usage, because a light tap is all that's needed; pushing it too hard is enough to slow down the truck really fast (i.e. the brakes are way more responsive now).
I just wonder what is the problem with the banjo bolts not holding up to the torque spec and even not holding up to the crush washers not crushing at all. To me, if I am a tech at a GM dealership, I am calling the mothership right away and telling them "Houston we have a problem". I mean, I know OE parts have issues with quality control from time to time, but a banjo bolt on a brake system not being able to be torqued to spec without yielding seems like a REALLY BIG problem.
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