2007 Yukon Denali Build (This got outta hand really quick...)

[67RS427]

Just in time for Wheel Wednesday... I got my new 20" Vossen Hybrid Forged HF6-4 wheels and had them wrapped in some 305/50 Nitto NT555RII Drag Radials. Now this baby will hook for sure but I will be installing a driveshaft loop and upgrading to solid 1350 u joints before I try it lol. Looking forward to seeing how this thing launches now and hoping to get a 10.3-10.5 qtr mile time here pretty soon.

More pics to come with my 16" Willwood Brakes installed this weekend.

**For those wondering, yes they rub lol... These tires are freaking huge. I will make them fit though, no way I'm stepping down to a 275 tire. I will trim the fender liner or even remove it and make something custom out of aluminum if I need to.

 

[Fosscore]

Just in time for Wheel Wednesday... I got my new 20" Vossen Hybrid Forged HF6-4 wheels and had them wrapped in some 305/50 Nitto NT555RII Drag Radials. Now this baby will hook for sure but I will be installing a driveshaft loop and upgrading to solid 1350 u joints before I try it lol. Looking forward to seeing how this thing launches now and hoping to get a 10.3-10.5 qtr mile time here pretty soon.

More pics to come with my 16" Willwood Brakes installed this weekend.

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**For those wondering, yes they rub lol... These tires are freaking huge. I will make them fit though, no way I'm stepping down to a 275 tire. I will trim the fender liner or even remove it and make something custom out of aluminum if I need to. View attachment 274249 View attachment 274252

Not a bad looking combo. Look forward to some launch vids on the new meats.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Not a bad looking combo. Look forward to some launch vids on the new meats.

X2!

 

[67RS427]

Finally got around to installing my 16" Wilwood Rotors yesterday... About damn time as I've had them sitting here for over a year now. Looks pretty damn good, haven't heat cycled them yet and bed the brakes, will be doing that this afternoon. Rears are done too, I'll get some more pics up later.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Finally got around to installing my 16" Wilwood Rotors yesterday... About damn time as I've had them sitting here for over a year now. Looks pretty damn good, haven't heat cycled them yet and bed the brakes, will be doing that this afternoon. Rears are done too, I'll get some more pics up later.

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Looks sick behind the wheel!

 

[JPS0284]

Finally got around to installing my 16" Wilwood Rotors yesterday... About damn time as I've had them sitting here for over a year now. Looks pretty damn good, haven't heat cycled them yet and bed the brakes, will be doing that this afternoon. Rears are done too, I'll get some more pics up later.

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I just stumbled into this trove of information seeking knowledge about starting my own LSA supercharger swap on my 2013 Escalade. I literally pulled over and sat at a nearby park for over an hour reading all the updates like it was a new season of Yellowstone lol. It was also pretty exciting to hear that your from the west Michigan area, I’m from GR. I just made this account hoping your still active on the forums because I’d love to get your opinion on the project, willing you have the time. Thanks Jason.

 

[67RS427]

I just stumbled into this trove of information seeking knowledge about starting my own LSA supercharger swap on my 2013 Escalade. I literally pulled over and sat at a nearby park for over an hour reading all the updates like it was a new season of Yellowstone lol. It was also pretty exciting to hear that your from the west Michigan area, I’m from GR. I just made this account hoping your still active on the forums because I’d love to get your opinion on the project, willing you have the time. Thanks Jason.

I’m glad you found it helpful. I’m still around, just haven’t posted too many updates lately. I’m hoping to hit the race track in the next week or two before Dream Cruise so I can make my first official 10 second qtr mile pass. Happy to help if you have questions. Great community here with lots of people and good info.

 

[JPS0284]

I’m glad you found it helpful. I’m still around, just haven’t posted too many updates lately. I’m hoping to hit the race track in the next week or two before Dream Cruise so I can make my first official 10 second qtr mile pass. Happy to help if you have questions. Great community here with lots of people and good info.

I hope everything goes well your build is amazing. I’ve yet to start piecing together parts for the build because I’ve never done anything outside of part failure replacements with the exception of a Beltech drop kit which I recently did because my front wheel hubs needed replacing and it was quicker to change the spindles out than beating the old hubs off. My question is if I gathered up all the components do you think the swap could be done over a weekend? The part of the project that worries me the most is the time factor, the trucks my DD so I can’t really afford to have it down for to long. You mentioned a parts list on a post would you still happen to have that? I’m confident in my mechanical ability to pull this off just hesitant because of the part compatibility unknowns do to lack of experience. Also I’m a little concerned about what future repercussions would be since the truck is completely stock I’d just really like a honest opinion to talk me off the ledge if I’m approaching this in the wrong order.

 

[67RS427]

I hope everything goes well your build is amazing. I’ve yet to start piecing together parts for the build because I’ve never done anything outside of part failure replacements with the exception of a Beltech drop kit which I recently did because my front wheel hubs needed replacing and it was quicker to change the spindles out than beating the old hubs off. My question is if I gathered up all the components do you think the swap could be done over a weekend? The part of the project that worries me the most is the time factor, the trucks my DD so I can’t really afford to have it down for to long. You mentioned a parts list on a post would you still happen to have that? I’m confident in my mechanical ability to pull this off just hesitant because of the part compatibility unknowns do to lack of experience. Also I’m a little concerned about what future repercussions would be since the truck is completely stock I’d just really like a honest opinion to talk me off the ledge if I’m approaching this in the wrong order.

I guess that all depends how crazy you wanna get with it. I started out just bolting a stock LSA on the my stock 6.2L and tuning it with HP Tuners. My truck had like 155k miles so lower oil pressure than I liked. Ended up building a stroked 6L with my rebuilt L92 heads. Then eventually added CNC Brodix heads. This can easily be done over a weekend but you need to set a goal and stick with it.

I still have a parts list but lots of the parts were random deals and I built this really cheap considering how expensive things are now. Example is the LSA ZL1 lid. Mine was $400 new, now they’re triple that if you can find one. I do have a guy in my area that does a lot of swaps and can get you parts, it’s just more money. What’s your budget? Could get a whipple or Magnison kit too. Do you plan to rebuild the transmission at the same time? Might be wise depending on the miles and HP goals. I’ve built mine like 5 times lol and probably a 6th soon. I’m also making a bit over 1k HP at the crank on E85. Rear end you might wanna toss in an Eaton/Detroit TruTrac if your stock one hasn’t blown up yet. If you really wanna keep it as a good solid DD, I’d stay under 700-800hp at the crank. Mine can still be daily driven and used in snow but it is expensive to maintain and gas ain’t cheap, probably only going up from here too.

 

[JPS0284]

I guess that all depends how crazy you wanna get with it. I started out just bolting a stock LSA on the my stock 6.2L and tuning it with HP Tuners. My truck had like 155k miles so lower oil pressure than I liked. Ended up building a stroked 6L with my rebuilt L92 heads. Then eventually added CNC Brodix heads. This can easily be done over a weekend but you need to set a goal and stick with it.

I still have a parts list but lots of the parts were random deals and I built this really cheap considering how expensive things are now. Example is the LSA ZL1 lid. Mine was $400 new, now they’re triple that if you can find one. I do have a guy in my area that does a lot of swaps and can get you parts, it’s just more money. What’s your budget? Could get a whipple or Magnison kit too. Do you plan to rebuild the transmission at the same time? Might be wise depending on the miles and HP goals. I’ve built mine like 5 times lol and probably a 6th soon. I’m also making a bit over 1k HP at the crank on E85. Rear end you might wanna toss in an Eaton/Detroit TruTrac if your stock one hasn’t blown up yet. If you really wanna keep it as a good solid DD, I’d stay under 700-800hp at the crank. Mine can still be daily driven and used in snow but it is expensive to maintain and gas ain’t cheap, probably only going up from here too.

I just crossed 120k on it a couple months ago. My initial bars set low, I’d really like to keep everything as close to oem as possible to begin with. I’d also like to keep the E85 option, it’s really cheap by me, I filled up last week for less than 60 bucks. I bought the truck at 100k miles and the first thing I did was the oem 100k mile check list and change both diff’s and transfer case lube and tranny flush. Everything checked out fine, the truck was mostly used as your typical grocery getter kid hauler, the rear passenger seats still had car seat impressions so I don’t think it’s seen much abuse. As far as budget goes it’s pretty tight, I could only afford to fo one thing at a time. I feel like if I could get it to run like a stock CTS-V I’d be pretty happy with that for now. What I find so appealing about this build is that it’s “taboo” to have a supercharged suv. I’ve been poking FB marketplace and seen LSA’s with lids and covers for around 2-2500$ which is more in my comfort range. I know there’s going to be more parts needed to get it going but I don’t have any deadline to get this accomplished. Im a little concerned about the tuning end of it, I’d definitely need some guidance on that end but I feel like if I could blend a stock CTS-V profit with my stock profile it should get me a decent baseline tune to start with?

 

[Tonyrodz]

I’m glad you found it helpful. I’m still around, just haven’t posted too many updates lately. I’m hoping to hit the race track in the next week or two before Dream Cruise so I can make my first official 10 second qtr mile pass. Happy to help if you have questions. Great community here with lots of people and good info.

If you do make it to the track, hopefully you'll post a video of that beast.

 

[67RS427]

That’s a good start for sure and a good price on a blower, just know you might need to replace the bearings and isolator. Easy to do if you’re mechanically inclined. You could just do a light rebuild on the motor, just bearings and a hone or .005-.010” cleanup if you’re lucky. Rebuild the L92 heads with a decent spring package and run LS7 lifers. Accessory drive is another chunk of the cost. You have a few options there. I ran a stock ZL1 heat exchanger at first with OEM lines and a cheap pump. Will work great for that power level. I’ll dig up my price sheet, I thought I posted it but maybe I forgot to.

 

[67RS427]

If you do make it to the track, hopefully you'll post a video of that beast.

100% will do. I’ve got a Dragy too so I’ll get video from that and another cam inside as well as outside. If it ran 124mph in the quarter on a heavy ass 32” snow tire with a crap launch, it should have no problem with a deep 10s pass now. That pass was in 2019 on 93oct and without my CNC heads lol. Adding the wheels and drag radials saves me about 120lbs of rotating mass alone. Also with another 200+hp on E85 with CNC heads, I should crush that no problem.

 

[JPS0284]

That’s a good start for sure and a good price on a blower, just know you might need to replace the bearings and isolator. Easy to do if you’re mechanically inclined. You could just do a light rebuild on the motor, just bearings and a hone or .005-.010” cleanup if you’re lucky. Rebuild the L92 heads with a decent spring package and run LS7 lifers. Accessory drive is another chunk of the cost. You have a few options there. I ran a stock ZL1 heat exchanger at first with OEM lines and a cheap pump. Will work great for that power level. I’ll dig up my price sheet, I thought I posted it but maybe I forgot to.

Thanks so much I really appreciate all the advice. My vin references the engine as a L94, would it uave L92 heads? If I change over to the LS7 lifters should I change out the cam too? I seen a complete low mileage LSA cam, lifters, push rods, springs and keepers for 200 on eBay? Sorry for the barrage of questions I’m kinda learning this as I go.

 

[67RS427]

Thanks so much I really appreciate all the advice. My vin references the engine as a L94, would it uave L92 heads? If I change over to the LS7 lifters should I change out the cam too? I seen a complete low mileage LSA cam, lifters, push rods, springs and keepers for 200 on eBay? Sorry for the barrage of questions I’m kinda learning this as I go.

L94 and L92 are pretty much the same motors. L94 was 2010 model years and up and are still a basic LS3 rectangular port head. You have AFM you're gonna want to delete and VVT too if you aren't sticking with a VVT Cam which I don't suggest. Used CTSV kit you mentioned is def a cost effective option but I'm not sure I'd trust a random used OEM listing. Lifters and stuff are pretty cheap new but I understand it adds up fast, trust me lol. Depending on the fuel pump you have, you might be able to stick with stock and just add a flex sensor if you dont have one already and just run new -8 AN fuel line and a return to your factory bucket. You'll want a vacuum referenced fuel regulator as well.

*Now that I think about it, your L94 motor probably has the same 823 casting heads as my L92 motor... Same motor but you have AFM, I didn't. My stock cam had a little more duration but yours has 54 lbs./hr. at 58 psi injectors (LSA stock is 59 lbs./hr) so you might even be able to stick with those if you're lucky.

*Another edit to say, 100% swap out the cam for a PDS cam made for positive displacement blowers. It’ll make way more power. LSA cam or even LS9 cam is fine if that’s all you can afford for your budget but I love my BTR Stage 3 cam but it’s aggressive. Even a Stage 1 or 2 would be way better than OEM.

 

[67RS427]

It was fun but I think I'm gonna have to sell it... Pass this along if you know anyone interested. Listing price is $33k, willing to come down a bit for the right buyer.

https://www.autotrader.com/marketplace/buy/gmc/yukon/2007/1GKFK63807J329718