I know my 02 ones stay up. Or at least they used to before the cowl hood.
What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter vwbeaner
- Start date
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Went by the transmission shop today he said they have to pull it out and loosen up the tolerances, it's too-tight basically
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
The mounting hole is a bit softer metal. The arms are all metal.
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That’s not good. Kind of strange to me that a shop that specializes in transmissions has to tear it down again. I wonder what exactly is too tight.
That's what she said
Yeah you wish!
NoReverseYukon
Full Access Member
Looked at the caliper rebuild kit I got and see that it has new rubber dust boots. It looks like it might be a pain to get the old ones out.
Anyone have any tricks on how to remove these ?
Anyone have any tricks on how to remove these ?
Piston boots or slide pin boots?
NoReverseYukon
Full Access Member
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they put a lot of clutches in it I don't really know much about transmissions but if I had to guess they might have to take some out or something? from what I understand or have read is these transmissions can have extra clutches added (more than stock) that's my best guess, it goes real nice if I put my foot in it, but just driving normal it hunts around at low rpms and decelerating from high rpms, like if you went to pass someone and then let off the pedal it spins up before going back into gear. Hoping 3rd time will be the charm.That’s not good. Kind of strange to me that a shop that specializes in transmissions has to tear it down again. I wonder what exactly is too tight.
Yeah you wish!
And I posted in the wrong section..... lol
Oops. You’re forgiven. We won’t kick you out of the club.
And a right-sized socket to drive the new one in without pinching the rubber boot.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Does anyone know if I can check the throttle body and see if its opening 100%, using a Tech 2? @Doubeleive @Rocket Man @swathdiver ?
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I have never tried. What’s going on?
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
It seems a little down on power, almost like the butterfly isn't opening all the way. The last time I had a similar issue, I replaced the throttle body-- because it wasn't opening completely, and it solved the problem.
Why not hook up the Tech2 and see?
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Lol, good idea.Why not hook up the Tech2 and see?
TheAutumnWind
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This is the dumbest assembly. Anyone delete the black quick connects? Seems like an unnecessary failure point
fasteddy
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This is how things cascade with an older vehicle.
My Tahoe is an 03 CA vehicle with part based oxidation and 18 year old rubber.
Nothing I would call rust like some of the vehicles I've seen from the rust belt......
So I replaced a rear caliper today. Nice looking part from Oreilly's....$55 exchange.....even galvanized coated (not really into that, would prefer to paint).
Why did I have to replace the caliper?
Because the bleeder screw was frozen and snapped off.
Why was I jacking with the bleeder screw?
Because I needed to bleed the brakes.
Why?
Because I had to replace my front passenger side brake line. (ACDelco, and I had to grind on it to get the holes to line up....Sheesh)
Why?
Because I nudged it (you have to disconnect from arm) when I replaced the upper control arm and it cracked. Not all the way through but enough create a safety concern.
Why did I have to replace the upper control arms? (I did both)
Because I had to replace the camber bolts and the bushings were gone anyway on the arms (drives much smoother now)
Why did I have to replace the camber bolts?
Because the bolts were "rounded" at the guide plate and wouldn't adjust much when I went to get an alignment.
Why did I have to get an alignment?
Because I put a leveling kit on......just had to do that and it cascaded from there (LOL)
Here's what it looks like now after a thorough cleaning, leveling, and $300 in Z71 wheels and tires from CL.
I bought it on OfferUp for $3000, but it had a really bad rear engine seal leak. 03 Tahoe 155K LT 4x4 HD TP with 3.73 Posi.
No worries though. Ripped the trans out, rebuilt to 4L75E specs, replaced the seal, changed the oil and now its fine....ready for a bigger motor.
And chrome and pinstripe delete
My Tahoe is an 03 CA vehicle with part based oxidation and 18 year old rubber.
Nothing I would call rust like some of the vehicles I've seen from the rust belt......
So I replaced a rear caliper today. Nice looking part from Oreilly's....$55 exchange.....even galvanized coated (not really into that, would prefer to paint).
Why did I have to replace the caliper?
Because the bleeder screw was frozen and snapped off.
Why was I jacking with the bleeder screw?
Because I needed to bleed the brakes.
Why?
Because I had to replace my front passenger side brake line. (ACDelco, and I had to grind on it to get the holes to line up....Sheesh)
Why?
Because I nudged it (you have to disconnect from arm) when I replaced the upper control arm and it cracked. Not all the way through but enough create a safety concern.
Why did I have to replace the upper control arms? (I did both)
Because I had to replace the camber bolts and the bushings were gone anyway on the arms (drives much smoother now)
Why did I have to replace the camber bolts?
Because the bolts were "rounded" at the guide plate and wouldn't adjust much when I went to get an alignment.
Why did I have to get an alignment?
Because I put a leveling kit on......just had to do that and it cascaded from there (LOL)
Here's what it looks like now after a thorough cleaning, leveling, and $300 in Z71 wheels and tires from CL.
I bought it on OfferUp for $3000, but it had a really bad rear engine seal leak. 03 Tahoe 155K LT 4x4 HD TP with 3.73 Posi.
No worries though. Ripped the trans out, rebuilt to 4L75E specs, replaced the seal, changed the oil and now its fine....ready for a bigger motor.
And chrome and pinstripe delete
ya just get this hose, which is the correct one needed
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M38NT7S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
the other one is this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N48XETY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
the oem black T
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F671434/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
the oem white T
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GV8RNIC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
grand total of about $125 and you are good for another 5-8 years before they should be replaced again they are a maintenance item. The plastic gets brittle and soft from heat and cold over time
