Factory Radio Dims or Restarts When Traction Control Activates

[George B]

2013 Suburban LTZ 4WD
Condition:

• Cold as balls out.
• Snow covered roads.
• 2WD mode
• Radio on and playing happily.

When the above conditions exist and I am attempting to accelerate from a stop in 2WD the tires will spin and the truck will activate the traction control and/or the Stabilitrac. When this happens the Factory Nav radio will either dim or restart completely. It has to be a significant wheel spin that includes both rears when the G80 activates. I have done no troubleshooting to date. First on the list is to clean up the battery terminals to ensure clean power from there. Can someone point me to where the power for both the Nav Radio and the traction control comes from so I can chase it back to either a supply or ground issue?
Easiest fix is to engage the AUTO or 4HI modes but I can't just ignore the issue. I don't know if it will do it in those modes because I have to be way too aggressive to get it to activate the TC/ST systems.

Note:
If someone can point me to a clean thread that outlines the "Big Three" upgrade I would appreciate it. More power is always better.

Thanks in advance.

 

[gooffeyguy]

See if it still does it with the traction control/Stabilitrak disabled. Hold the button in for a few seconds to disable both (although it doesn't disable the brake traction control, gotta pull the ABS fuse to do that).

I do know that when the TCS/Stabilitrak system is activated, it will disable cruise control ifbit is being used.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[George B]

See if it still does it with the traction control/Stabilitrak disabled. Hold the button in for a few seconds to disable both (although it doesn't disable the brake traction control, gotta pull the ABS fuse to do that).

I do know that when the TCS/Stabilitrak system is activated, it will disable cruise control ifbit is being used.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Several tests today:
With everything disabled there is no visible glitch in the radio.

With everything enabled and I couldn’t duplicate it today.

Did note a lower charging system voltage today v.s. yesterday.

Still thinking a battery cable cleaning or a big three upgrade.

 

[Big Mama]

Could be the battery too.

 

[Big Mama]

Here’s a big 3 thread. The pictures are gone but it explains it well enough. Don’t forget to check your ground cables whether you do the upgrade or not.

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/big-3-upgrade-directions-w-pictures.19597/

 

[Bill 1960]

If you have a scanner that will activate the ABS for bleeding you may be able to reproduce the issue in the garage to aid with diagnosing the source of the voltage drop.

 

[George B]

Tried like hell to make it do it today with no luck. Who knows!
Will check cables and move on. New battery goes in this fall.

 

[George B]

If you have a scanner that will activate the ABS for bleeding you may be able to reproduce the issue in the garage to aid with diagnosing the source of the voltage drop.

Yes, I have a tech2 clone. Will try this when its not cold as balls out.

 

[George B]

Issue resurfaced today. I noted it does it when the voltage needle is up higher on the gauge.
That charging scenario is related to when I remote start the truck.

 

[George B]

Went and checked the battery connections. Found the ground to be a bit loose. The terminal turned easily when I went to loosen it. Cleaned and tightened.

 

[George B]

1. Today our roads are pretty clear so no more testing the TC activation but I do have more data.
2. I went out and key started the truck this morning. Seems to turn over a little faster.
   the voltage was just to the right of 14.
3. I had no issues on the way to work. I even remembered another time the radio restarted was when I actuated “up” for both rear windows at the same time. It didn’t glitch.
   
4. After work I remote started and ran it to almost the full ten minutes.
   
5. I noted the voltage when I keyed on was way over to the right near about 16 this is where I have the trouble.
   
6. Actuating both windows resulted in dimming of the display.
   
7. All four windows knocked it out.

Does this thing not charge when it’s remote started?
What is the difference here?
Maybe the battery is soft but it starts fine.
Can anyone point me to the ground for that circuit or for the TC?

 

[thompsoj22]

Just my 2 cents. awhile back i installed 2 700 watt cooling fan motors and all was well until i slowed to tuen around on the first test drive of the fans. as i slowed to u turn the vehicle was at an idle with both fans on high and the factory bose radio went blank? Turns out i was pulling to much wattage at idle and bose is finicky to voltage drops, removed one 700 watt fan motor and reinstalled one of the 500 watt originals and fixed the issue. I also installed a 220 amp factory alternator and a 2 inch overdrive pulley to help with idle power draw on the system. How old is the battery? I would start there as cold weather kills battery's dead.

 

[George B]

Just my 2 cents. awhile back i installed 2 700 watt cooling fan motors and all was well until i slowed to tuen around on the first test drive of the fans. as i slowed to u turn the vehicle was at an idle with both fans on high and the factory bose radio went blank? Turns out i was pulling to much wattage at idle and bose is finicky to voltage drops, removed one 700 watt fan motor and reinstalled one of the 500 watt originals and fixed the issue. I also installed a 220 amp factory alternator and a 2 inch overdrive pulley to help with idle power draw on the system. How old is the battery? I would start there as cold weather kills battery's dead.

The battery is an unknown age. Gotta go.

 

[George B]

Solved: I found what I believe to be the issue. The ground wire that is part of the negative cable assembly that runs to the frame under the right headlamp is damaged and corroded. I cleaned the frame connection with no improvement so I ran a temporary ground cable from the body ground by the brake booster down to the ground on the frame under the drivers door. I also replaced the battery due to unknown age or condition. This has corrected the issue as far as I can tell with several attempts to replicate the dimming issue while spinning the wheels in snow.

My permanent fix will be a replacement ground cable from the battery to the engine block and then using the original large ground cable from the block to the point under the front headlight. I will remove my temporary cable and save it for later use.

Mods,
Please add solved to the title.