Walk around after cam and heads

[Tonyrodz]

What were the no nos?

Also curious.

 

[JDopirak]

What were the no nos?

Welp i was not planning on doing cam bearings so we did it the weekend before it was getting tuned. So in order to do cam bearings we had to pull the crank and rods. We reused the bearings and they did look perfect to me but that was a no no, We reused rod bolts, Cleaned up the pistons and piston rings and marked every single thing and put it all back exactly as it came apart facing same directions in same exact spots, We did not measure the tolerances between new cam and new cam bearings ill be honest i didnt even think about it. But my buddy who has "built" like 10 ls motors swore up and down it will be fine the cam was smooth as hell. I was nervous about the rod bolts as they stretch because there tty bolts but we did plastigauge 3 rods and 3 main caps and they where right in the middle of gms specs. But my friend insisted there is no reason to replace rod bolts as people use them all the time making 1k hp. My gut told me to stop take whole block to machine shop and postpone the tune appointment but i trusted my friend who had more knowledge then me and this is what i get. Ive put 200 miles on it and no noises so far but we cut open the filter and there was glitter everywhere no real flakes tho a few slivers but thats it.

So i already made some calls and got pricing im looking at 2400 all in for getting a 6.0 block rebuilt and the machine shop assembling it with various reusable parts from my 5.3 heads, pushrods, lifters maybe, cam if its still good, wont know till i pull it alla apart which im not looking forward too. I just stood in my garage for 30min just looking at it last night .

 

[JDopirak]

The oil filter i just cut open

And the main bearing from when we tore down the motor to install cam bearings.

 

[JDopirak]

Pics didnt load in other post sorry

 

[swathdiver]

Sorry to hear about this Joe. Stick with your gut and always follow the manual. I had piles and piles of used head bolts from my engine building days in the shop! Never reused them. I remember using some old rod bolts to secure a vise to the work bench.

 

[JDopirak]

Sorry to hear about this Joe. Stick with your gut and always follow the manual. I had piles and piles of used head bolts from my engine building days in the shop! Never reused them. I remember using some old rod bolts to secure a vise to the work bench.

I got new head bolts, But yea i already broke the news to my wife she wasnt happy but she knows i had my doubts from the start, On the plus side with a cam and heads 6.0 i should be over 400whp when its all said and done. Hopefully the trans will hold out lol.

 

[1BADI5]

Did you use break in oil with the cam swap?

If you replace any bearing in the engine, break in oil, break in period and change the oil after the break in.

 

[1BADI5]

I did a short walk around of my yukon after heads/cam swap. Untuned

You can barely hear the cam im considering installing a electric cut out for when i dont have the family and i wanna hear the lope.

Tsp 212/218 113lsa
Prc cnc ported 243 heads (It came with 799s stock but didnt want alot of down time so i bought 243/799 heads and sent them out ahead of time)
10296 melling pump
Upgraded trunuions
Tsp 7.4 hardened pushrods
Gibson ceramic headers
Ls6 springs
Ls7 lifters
Dod delete
Ls3 tb
S@b intake
4port steam port.
Aluminum oil barbell
Magnaflow muffler
Slp resonator delete

Any information or pics of the 4 steam port set up?

I was scheduled to get tuned at CSP........but this virus shit broke out.

 

[swathdiver]

I got new head bolts, But yea i already broke the news to my wife she wasnt happy but she knows i had my doubts from the start, On the plus side with a cam and heads 6.0 i should be over 400whp when its all said and done. Hopefully the trans will hold out lol.

You know Murphy? He'll be right there helping you spend more money on your trans after your first burnout! LOL

Trust your instincts and take your time.

 

[JDopirak]

Any information or pics of the 4 steam port set up?

I was scheduled to get tuned at CSP........but this virus shit broke out.

I did not use break in oil, Didnt think we where going to be doing any bearings at all or i would have bought some ahead of time. And it would have been atleast a week or so if i ordered it and my tune was in 2days and at that point i was so stressed i wasnt thinking straight. And my buddy said he has alwsys let them idle for like 30-45min so thats what we did then drained the oil and changed the filter. 100 miles later i changed it again and well you see the pics.

As far as 4 port steam port system i got the oem steam line from a ls2 or ls3 i cant remember which and bought the steam port gaskets and bolted it on , Nothing crazy. You do have to bend the part where the hose connects a little or it hits the intake.

 

[swathdiver]

"All TSP engines will include 12 quarts of Driven Racing break-in oil for no additional cost. Proper break-in oil and procedures for your engine are just as important as the build process! The Driven Racing break-in oil allows for proper ring sealing against the cylinder walls upon start-up, as well as for the break-in period once the engine is up and running. Most off-the-shelf engine oils do not have the necessary ZDDP additives to allow for proper break-in of a new engine, and we want to take every precaution possible to ensure that your new TSP engine receives a proper break-in! We also offer the Driven Racing oil for your new engine once your break-in is complete. We recommend using either the HR2 conventional non-synthetic or the LS30 full synthetic oil. Please note that the Driven Racing LS30 is the ONLY synthetic oil we recommend using in your engine because it retains the necessary ZDDP additives."

 

[JDopirak]

"All TSP engines will include 12 quarts of Driven Racing break-in oil for no additional cost. Proper break-in oil and procedures for your engine are just as important as the build process! The Driven Racing break-in oil allows for proper ring sealing against the cylinder walls upon start-up, as well as for the break-in period once the engine is up and running. Most off-the-shelf engine oils do not have the necessary ZDDP additives to allow for proper break-in of a new engine, and we want to take every precaution possible to ensure that your new TSP engine receives a proper break-in! We also offer the Driven Racing oil for your new engine once your break-in is complete. We recommend using either the HR2 conventional non-synthetic or the LS30 full synthetic oil. Please note that the Driven Racing LS30 is the ONLY synthetic oil we recommend using in your engine because it retains the necessary ZDDP additives."

Yeah..... and my oil is synthetic........ Its to late to change it to conventional oil now i guess. I normally do a ton of research on everything i do before i do it and i did not because i trusted my friend knew all of this.

 

[1BADI5]

I did not use break in oil, Didnt think we where going to be doing any bearings at all or i would have bought some ahead of time. And it would have been atleast a week or so if i ordered it and my tune was in 2days and at that point i was so stressed i wasnt thinking straight. And my buddy said he has alwsys let them idle for like 30-45min so thats what we did then drained the oil and changed the filter. 100 miles later i changed it again and well you see the pics.

As far as 4 port steam port system i got the oem steam line from a ls2 or ls3 i cant remember which and bought the steam port gaskets and bolted it on , Nothing crazy. You do have to bend the part where the hose connects a little or it hits the intake.

View attachment 246421

Sweet thanks for the information.

Experience is the best teacher......but damn she can be a *****

 

[ls1frc]

That sucks. Sorry to hear.

I have done dozens of cam swaps and the cam bearings always look trashed but 99.9% of the time are perfectly fine to be reused.

I used conventional + rislone ZDDP additive when I did my DOD delete.

 

[JDopirak]

That sucks. Sorry to hear.

I have done dozens of cam swaps and the cam bearings always look trashed but 99.9% of the time are perfectly fine to be reused.

I used conventional + rislone ZDDP additive when I did my DOD delete.

After doing a little research i see alot of people see copper in there cam bearings even with new crate motors, And super low mileage motors. I thought it was odd when he said they where shot as my oil pressure was perfect. 35 warm idle and 57-60ish at wot. But my friend had more knowledge about ls stuff then me so i trusted him and we replaced them.

 

[1BADI5]

SO is your friend still walking around with his tail between his legs? I know I'd feel like shit if a situation like that happened. I know shit happens, but you put alot of faith and money into his judgement/advise.

 

[JDopirak]

SO is your friend still walking around with his tail between his legs? I know I'd feel like shit if a situation like that happened. I know shit happens, but you put alot of faith and money into his judgement/advise.

He took no blame, Said we did everything right and nothing he did or reccomend we do would have caused failure and he doesnt understand how it happened. I took blame as i should have stuck with my gut feeling. But after some back and forth txt we havent talked in almost a month now. Hes one of those sloppy mechanic kinda guys ls turbo the world. He took my old 100k head gaskets and head bolts for a turbo 6.0 hes building.

Anyway im now at 600 miles no noises yet i finally did a WOT pull on the highway " 5.7 hemi dodge was annoying me" and man it really is night and day up to it pulled decent for a 6klb brick with a 5.3 lol.

I purchased a 6.0 and had it dropped off at the machine shop they are going to rebuild the short block with a new cam" haven't decided on that yet , We are going to go over everything abd decide then. I may bring it home amd leave it on stand till motor is shot in Yukon then give heads and everything else back to machine shop to build long block OR ill buy new heads and have them cnc ported also and all the parts to build a long block and have machine shop do a all new fresh build. And use parts from 5.3 for my ls mustang im starting to build. Im pretty much taking it day by day right now.

 

[swathdiver]

He took my old 100k head gaskets and head bolts for a turbo 6.0 hes building.

To use for mocking up or on a running motor? OEM bolts? If so, stay clear of that guy at the track, kaboom time coming up.

 

[JDopirak]

To use for mocking up or on a running motor? OEM bolts? If so, stay clear of that guy at the track, kaboom time coming up.

Running... and yes im assuming oem bolts idk if the motor was ever taken apart before i got it.

 

[swathdiver]

Running... and yes im assuming oem bolts idk if the motor was ever taken apart before i got it.

Forgive me if you already know this. GM used Torque To Yield (TTY) Head Bolts. These bolts can only be used once, they stretch as they are tightened. Anyway, that guy knows so much that isn't so. He's full of pride too and probably broke. He should have offered to make things right even if he didn't have the dollars to do so.