2003 yukon problem..door lock issue

[Nyjetfan21]

I’m a little confused on what the RPO code means also the way I explained to you about the actuator for my truck which one would you purchase

 

[OR VietVet]

Because I don't know what the RPO code is for PassLock or even if there is an RPO code for that I cannot tell you which actuator. I would bet that 95% sure you have PassLock and someone here will chime in about it eventually. I would bet if you went and had a key cut off of your key and make sure it has no chip and when try to turn ignition and does not crank, then yes I would bet you have PassLock. Plus if the new key had a chip it would have to be programmed to your truck's VIN. But someone here will chime in. Give it a little time.


RPO stands for Regular Production Options and is your list for YOUR truck that lists all your truck options when it was built. It is inside your glove box door. Gobs of info there.

 

[Mechanic421]

Have you got to door open yet? I have not hacked in our generation truck yet. I had a 07 Escalade (customers)I could roll to window down and 1/4” brake line and hit the latch to get door open to replace latch,cable and if I remember right inner door handle. But not sure about inner some are part of the door panel on newer trucks. I now I did not replace the panel. One of the harder parts of my job doors,hoods and trunk lids that won’t open.

 

[Nyjetfan21]

Just a heads up I believe there is no chip in my keyTo start my truck. I recently had a key made and it cost me two dollars to make the Key. I know a chip key cost more than that

 

[OR VietVet]

If you had the key made and it would start your rig, then I am ASSUMING you do not have PassLock.

 

[Nyjetfan21]

Yes the key I had made 100% start my car so I am going to order the Actuator that is not for the pass lock. Thank you everybody for your support

 

[OR VietVet]

I would still feel better about it if there is an RPO code for it and someone here knew what it is. That is why I capitalized ASSUMING.

 

[LEDFoot]

Passlock is not a RFID chip in the key. It's simply a sensor in the ignition cylinder housing:

PASSLOCK(TM) SENSOR

The Passlock(TM) sensor is inside the ignition cylinder lock housing. The Passlock(TM) sensor contains 2 hall effect sensors. The tamper hall effect sensor is on the top. The security hall effect sensor is under the tamper hall effect sensor. Both of the hall effect sensors monitor the magnet of the lock cylinder through an opening. The tamper hall effect sensor is physically placed on top of the security hall effect sensor. This arrangement enables the tamper hall effect sensor to engage first if an intruder attempts to bypass the Passlock(TM) sensor by placing a large magnet around that area of the steering column. There is a tamper resistor inside the Passlock(TM) sensor in order to help prevent tamper to the system. Passlock(TM) equipped vehicles have a selection of 10 different security resistors ranging from 0.5K ohms up to 13.6K ohms . Installing one of the security resistors inside the Passlock(TM) sensor will generate a unique Passlock(TM) code. All 10 combinations of the Passlock(TM) sensor have the same part number. However, you cannot simply replace the Passlock(TM) sensor and expect the system to operate properly. Always start by performing the Diagnostic System Check first and following the instructions.

 

[LEDFoot]

It doesn't sound to me like it's a problem with the actuator, it sounds like you have something manually preventing the lock from opening. Have you tried having someone pushing the door in from the outside while attempting to force the manual lock slide inside to move?

Or maybe push on the door while trying to operate the key in the cylinder?

If there is something in the latch mechanism or between the door and the frame putting pressure on the latch mechanism it is possible that that might make it bind to where the lock cannot be disengaged.

 

[OR VietVet]

It doesn't sound to me like it's a problem with the actuator, it sounds like you have something manually preventing the lock from opening. Have you tried having someone pushing the door in from the outside while attempting to force the manual lock slide inside to move?

Or maybe push on the door while trying to operate the key in the cylinder?

If there is something in the latch mechanism or between the door and the frame putting pressure on the latch mechanism it is possible that that might make it bind to where the lock cannot be disengaged.

I like both of these responses. That is why I said ASSUMING. I am glad you chimed in, especially with the push/pull on the door when trying to open.

 

[Nyjetfan21]

I never I actually tried what you said to push on the door from the outside and have somebody try to engage the lock but let me ask a simple question would it affect all the locks if it had something to do with inside the ignition because it’s only affecting the passenger front door and when I pull the slide off I can get a pair of pliers on the rod and pull it To open the door but there is a lot of tension behind it

 

[Nyjetfan21]

I’m going to actually remove the door panel on the next nice day we have in New York

 

[OR VietVet]

Yep, gotta get eyes on the problem and SEE what is going on. It is guess work at this point. I hate guessing.

 

[Nyjetfan21]

Thank you all for the help I’ll keep you posted when I get a chance to pull the door panel once the weather breaks

 

[LEDFoot]

I never I actually tried what you said to push on the door from the outside and have somebody try to engage the lock but let me ask a simple question would it affect all the locks if it had something to do with inside the ignition because it’s only affecting the passenger front door and when I pull the slide off I can get a pair of pliers on the rod and pull it To open the door but there is a lot of tension behind it

I think it's a local problem in the door locking mechanism itself and not related to your ignition.
There is nothing in the power lock system that should be keeping the actuator under constant tension, if that was the issue you should be able to pull the power lock fuse, or even disconnect the connector to the door's wiring harness to the BCM. The lock actuator is only powered briefly either during lock or unlock, not at all times (unless you have something terribly wrong with your wiring).

Good luck, let us know how it goes.

By the way, these are the official service recommendations on binding lock cylinders. Living up there on the frozen tundra it might be useful to you

Service and Repair

Binding Lock Cylinders

In many cases, applying the proper lubrication can correct the following conditions:

• Binding or sticking door lock cylinders
• Difficulty in inserting and removing the keys

For lubricating the above components, use lubricant GM P/N 12346241 or equivalent

Do not use penetrating lubricants such as GM P/N 1052949 or WD-40(R). Penetrating lubricants wash out the original lubrication. Penetrating lubricants eventually evaporate, leaving little or no lubricating material. However, when using penetrating lubricants in order to thaw or in order to loosen the lock cylinder components, refer to steps 2-4 in the procedure below for the proper methods of lubrication.

Repair lock cylinders frozen in cold weather by using the following procedure:

1. While carefully avoiding damage to the painted surfaces, apply heat to the cylinder with a heat gun.
2. Using a paper clip or a similar item, hold the door shutter open. Force air into the cylinders using compressed air through a blow gun attachment.
3. While holding the shutter door open, inject small amounts of a recommended lubricant into the cylinder.
4. Work the key into the cylinder repeatedly. Wipe away any excess lubrication from the key.