2003 Yukon Denali Trans/electronic Problem (shifting & rpm)

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roveer

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I've got a 2003 Yukon Denali XL with 238k miles. Last year when driving on the high way at 70mph I would notice the rpm's moving between 2500-3000 every few seconds. I could hear the engine surging. Holding the gas at same positing this would happen at speed.

I also noticed that at slow speeds shifting between 2nd and 3rd wouldn't happen unless I lifted off the gas. Otherwise It would rev up past 4k until I lifted then it would shift. Was kind of like driving a manual transmission.

At that time the car would often go into limp mode (reduced engine power) at startup and would have to be started multiple times to get rid of that message. At one point last year I pulled the entire throttle body and cleaned it. There was a heavy dirt/grease build-up at the bottom of the intake. That seemed to fix the reduced engine power message. It also seemed to make the 2nd - 3rd shifting problem get much better, but over time it went back to it's old state (having to lift off the gas).

This past weekend we went from NJ to DE and MD and back and I noticed that on the highway at 60 mph and above I was at 3000 rpm. 70 mph was like 3200 rpm and 80 was a full 3500+ rpm. That seemed way to high and I started wondering if the trans was going into 4th gear.

This weekend after a lot of Youtubing and fretting over having to have transmission work done, I saw a post about replacing the throttle position sensor. This truck has the 6 liter V8 and as such has the throttle sensor pop riveted to the side of the throttle body unlike the simple screw on type.

I ordered and installed a Dorman replacement (BTW, 58 bucks on amazon, 110 at auto parts store) tonight and took it out for a test drive. I also disconnected the battery after installing the new sensor. Gears inside of housing all looked fine.

Right away I noticed the 2nd to 3rd gear shifting problem was all but gone. Shifts were smooth. It also seemed like speeds up to 60mph were not running the rpm's up to 3000 like it had before. Speeds about 65-80 did have rpm's right at 3000. That still seems high. No wavering rpm during cruise at 60+ but that didn't happen this past weekend either.

What I did notice was coasting down hill at 70 (foot off the gas) the rpm would go down to 600 and waver between 600-1200rpm every few seconds. Seems like there is still a problem.

What I'm seeing is rpm's too high at 65+ and this wavering rpm when coasting. I'm starting to wonder if the new throttle positing sensor actually did anything, or if disconnecting the battery reset an ECM and all problems will return.

No strange noises from the transmission, it's been pretty rock solid. Never towed anything with this truck, it's Mom's actually.

This one is real strange and I'd like to solve it so I can try and get 300k out of it. Body & motor are both holding up pretty well at this point.

Any insights?

Possible broken wire?
VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor)?
Does throttle position sensor need to be calibrated?

No check engine lights. I have an OBD II and I'm going to see if it will tell me what gear i'm in when cruising. It is more capable than the simple code readers.

Thanks,

Roveer
 
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rockola1971

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Common symptom of reduce engine power caused by TPS. The TPS gets a wear spot in its resistive element for the position sensor which provides feedback to PCM. The TAC module uses the TPS and the Throttle position at floor as inputs and those are compared and if not within a certain spec of each other the system goes into reduced engine power to prevent a runaway condition. TPS does NOT need any calibration. Seems like most of your problem is 4th gear RPM. Your higher than normal RPM in 4th (OD) screams of 2-4 band slipping. This band is used only for 2nd and 4th gear. Typical cause is normal wear and tear, towing in 4th (I dont recommend), 2-4 band servo failing to hold. It wont fix itself and will only get worse. The typical chain of events are losing 2nd and 4th gear and overheating of reverse clutches until reverse is gone too. Check your fluid. Its probably burnt and brownish looking and stinks. Tranny rebuild is in order.
 
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roveer

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Common symptom of reduce engine power caused by TPS. The TPS gets a wear spot in its resistive element for the position sensor which provides feedback to PCM. The TAC module uses the TPS and the Throttle position at floor as inputs and those are compared and if not within a certain spec of each other the system goes into reduced engine power to prevent a runaway condition. TPS does NOT need any calibration. Seems like most of your problem is 4th gear RPM. Your higher than normal RPM in 4th (OD) screams of 2-4 band slipping. This band is used only for 2nd and 4th gear. Typical cause is normal wear and tear, towing in 4th (I dont recommend), 2-4 band servo failing to hold. It wont fix itself and will only get worse. The typical chain of events are losing 2nd and 4th gear and overheating of reverse clutches until reverse is gone too. Check your fluid. Its probably burnt and brownish looking and stinks. Tranny rebuild is in order.

I had read that a likely cause of no overdrive is the band. I'm just trying to make absolutely sure that it's not an outside caused issue. I even read that the brake stop switch can cause this problem. I'd like to find out that the truck is commanding 4th gear and the trans is not responding. I tried my obdII and it didn't seem to show that level of detail.

Band replacement is too much for me. I watched a teardown video.

I see you can get a rebuilt for around 1,200 dollars. Swapping the trans is probably also too much for me to do at home (comments?). Unfortunately I just had to put 3k into this truck to get my wife home a few weeks ago (rebuilt steering & linkage), so now I'm in a real quandary.

Would appreciate any ideas
 
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roveer

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Common symptom of reduce engine power caused by TPS. The TPS gets a wear spot in its resistive element for the position sensor which provides feedback to PCM. The TAC module uses the TPS and the Throttle position at floor as inputs and those are compared and if not within a certain spec of each other the system goes into reduced engine power to prevent a runaway condition. TPS does NOT need any calibration. Seems like most of your problem is 4th gear RPM. Your higher than normal RPM in 4th (OD) screams of 2-4 band slipping. This band is used only for 2nd and 4th gear. Typical cause is normal wear and tear, towing in 4th (I dont recommend), 2-4 band servo failing to hold. It wont fix itself and will only get worse. The typical chain of events are losing 2nd and 4th gear and overheating of reverse clutches until reverse is gone too. Check your fluid. Its probably burnt and brownish looking and stinks. Tranny rebuild is in order.

Would this type of problem throw a transmission error code? Is my SEEKONE OBD2 scanner capable of reading these codes or do I need to use something else? Right now I have no current or pending codes. Thanks.
 

rockola1971

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Not likely to throw a code if 2-4 band is slipping. Increased RPM at highway speeds is typically a slipping 2-4 band. If you want to make your life easier just have a look here and get what GM uses, only a cheaper ****** version. I have one and it cost me like $250 or so back about 4 years ago. Worth every penny of it and has saved me an enormous amount of time. The GM Tech 2 will do everything, even stupid stuff like reset security code of your radio. It will talk to every module in your vehicle and pull codes and troubleshoot. https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesal...1018161250&SearchText=tech+2&switch_new_app=y
 
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roveer

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Not likely to throw a code if 2-4 band is slipping. Increased RPM at highway speeds is typically a slipping 2-4 band. If you want to make your life easier just have a look here and get what GM uses, only a cheaper ****** version. I have one and it cost me like $250 or so back about 4 years ago. Worth every penny of it and has saved me an enormous amount of time. The GM Tech 2 will do everything, even stupid stuff like reset security code of your radio. It will talk to every module in your vehicle and pull codes and troubleshoot. https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesal...1018161250&SearchText=tech+2&switch_new_app=y

Will consider this. The Seekone is pretty basic and even though it's had 2 firmware updates in the few years I've owned it, only gives a certain amount of information.

While not a transmission savvy person, I can say that the truck doesn't even try to shift into overdrive. Just sticks in third gear and runs up to 3000k and goes along just fine. Not even a pedal lift or any of the tricks to try and force a shift has any affect. Is that still likely a slipping band? This truck never towed and was mostly a local daily driver. I know I'm probably beating a dead horse here, but if maybe it's a solenoid or accumulator, something that could possibly be swapped without having to pull the entire transmission would be a huge win for me.
 

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Do you have access to a scanner that will let you view the TCC lockup command? I'd check that in addition to what's already mentioned (look at your fluid. now.) Slipping clutches feels way different than a torque converter lockup being fussy. These rigs are PWM controlled, and as part of the programming: are commanded to release the TCC lock on application of the brake pedal.

Can you get someone to drive behind you when the issue is occurring and observe the behavior of your brake lights? My thought process being - something with the switch in the brake pedal can cause locking and unlocking of the torque converter.
 

rockola1971

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Will consider this. The Seekone is pretty basic and even though it's had 2 firmware updates in the few years I've owned it, only gives a certain amount of information.

While not a transmission savvy person, I can say that the truck doesn't even try to shift into overdrive. Just sticks in third gear and runs up to 3000k and goes along just fine. Not even a pedal lift or any of the tricks to try and force a shift has any affect. Is that still likely a slipping band? This truck never towed and was mostly a local daily driver. I know I'm probably beating a dead horse here, but if maybe it's a solenoid or accumulator, something that could possibly be swapped without having to pull the entire transmission would be a huge win for me.

Ok sounds like a different problem you have there since you say the truck will not even go into 4th. How is the shift to 2nd? Are you sure it is going into 2nd? Go somewhere in a straightaway so you can accelerate from a dead stop slowly and count the shift starting from 1st gear. Dont mistake torque converter lockup as a shift. You could very well have a solenoid that has failed that is only common to 4th gear. The servo and band are common to 2nd and 4th gear so not likely the problem if 2nd is fine. If its the 4th gear solenoid has failed then that is a easy messy fix since you have to drop the tranny pan. Might as well change the filter while you are in there. The ****** tech 2 can troubleshoot this. ;)
 
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roveer

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Ok sounds like a different problem you have there since you say the truck will not even go into 4th. How is the shift to 2nd? Are you sure it is going into 2nd? Go somewhere in a straightaway so you can accelerate from a dead stop slowly and count the shift starting from 1st gear. Dont mistake torque converter lockup as a shift. You could very well have a solenoid that has failed that is only common to 4th gear. The servo and band are common to 2nd and 4th gear so not likely the problem if 2nd is fine. If its the 4th gear solenoid has failed then that is a easy messy fix since you have to drop the tranny pan. Might as well change the filter while you are in there. The ****** tech 2 can troubleshoot this. ;)

After having the flu for the past week I was finally able to get back to my GMC transmission problem.

I had been reading about the brake switch sensor so I decided to swap it out today with a new one. I had also disconnected the battery for a full hour a few days ago to clear out the computers.

Here are 3 videos showing what's happening.

vid 1 & 2 are from dead stop showing shifting from 1-3 at fairly low speeds. The third video was getting onto the highway. I'd be interested to see if anyone can see anything in these videos. The flashing check engine light on the highway video is the first time that has ever happened and was a surprise. I scanned it when I got home and had a PO335 crank position sensor and a PO300 multiple cylinder misfire. Wasn't expecting those. Wondering if my battery pull brought this about or if I might in fact have a bad crank sensor? Problem is, you need a more sophisticated scanner to do the relearn procedure. I can probably have my local mechanic do it. I'm still not feeling a definitive shift into overdrive.

Here are the vid's



 

rockola1971

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Sure looks like your 2nd gear and 4th is GONE. That wavering rpm in OD is your 2-4 band slipping. I think you believe you arent getting 4th because you are counting 3 shifts when what it looks like is actual a 1st to 3rd shift (2nd gear is just slipping and never locks in) then a 3-4 shift and in there a torque converter lockup around 40-45mph which is easily confused as a shift. You are going to have to get those misfire and CPS codes figured out or you will be chasing your tail. That ****** Tech 2 will pay for itself! Mine has many times over and saved me so much time of having to deal with a garage..one that may or may not even get the problem fixed and still charge you for it.
 

SnowDrifter

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Yikes

Check the electronical bits - check solenoids in the trans. Easiest way is with T2 or other high end scanner. If those are good, she's dead, Jim
 
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roveer

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Sure looks like your 2nd gear and 4th is GONE. That wavering rpm in OD is your 2-4 band slipping. I think you believe you arent getting 4th because you are counting 3 shifts when what it looks like is actual a 1st to 3rd shift (2nd gear is just slipping and never locks in) then a 3-4 shift and in there a torque converter lockup around 40-45mph which is easily confused as a shift. You are going to have to get those misfire and CPS codes figured out or you will be chasing your tail. That ****** Tech 2 will pay for itself! Mine has many times over and saved me so much time of having to deal with a garage..one that may or may not even get the problem fixed and still charge you for it.

Thank you for taking the time to analyze the videos. I knew there was nuance in what is happening. I'm probably going to get the scanner you are recommending since I have 4-5 similar gmc vehicles between a few family members. I'm looking now at reman transmissions. Turns out I have a leaking rear main seal that needs to be repaired and that would require the removal of the transmission, so I can economize on the labor by putting in a re-manufactured transmission after fixing the seal. Probably wouldn't consider doing any of this, but had just spent 3k rebuilding the entire front end steering linkage.

Thanks again for the input.
 
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roveer

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Yikes

Check the electronical bits - check solenoids in the trans. Easiest way is with T2 or other high end scanner. If those are good, she's dead, Jim

How exactly would I check these bits? Just look for codes, or would I have real time data running as I'm driving and watch for commands and shifts?
 

rockola1971

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How exactly would I check these bits? Just look for codes, or would I have real time data running as I'm driving and watch for commands and shifts?
We are beyond that. 2nd gear is a slipping mess. 4th gear is slipping and will be gone soon. Both 2nd and 4th use different solenoids. If either of those solenoids were bad you wouldnt get either one of those gears but 4th is there but it just slips under load. Soon 4th will not be there and all this clutch slipping will ruin reverse clutches and dish their steel plates into frisbees due to the excessive heat. Then she dies a miserable horrible death. Pull tranny dispstick and I bet you will find that the fluid is no longer pink but more of a orange to burn brown and smells burnt.
 
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roveer

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Well... 3,300 dollars later and it's still a mess. Took it to a very reputable transmission repair shop with good reviews. Discussed the issues. They did a "rebuild". Kept it two extra days because they were having a problem. When I got it back it's having a problem going into second, and I believe into overdrive is somewhat similar. See the videos. My initial problems that started this whole thing were wonky shifts into 2nd and missing overdrive. The overdrive issue has been resolved with their rebuild. It's this funny shifting which leads me to believe something is slipping and will burn up the transmission in no time. Before I go back to the shop I'd like to have a little more information on what's happening. I'd be interested in your opinions. Also, does any of this


 

mikeyss

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It sounds like the transmission pump itself is going bad, or your powering steering pump is howling. Did the transmission shop replace the front pump or torque converter?
 
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roveer

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That's the power steering pump. It's a rebuilt and I haven't bothered to change it. One thing I'll say, I always know when my wife is coming around the corner.

I'm not sure what they replaced.
 

rockola1971

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Heres what I saw on the new videos. 1-2 shift and 2-3 shift. 3rd gear was slipping, thats why the rpm's were wavering during that shift. You didnt get up to speed for a 3-4 shift so I never saw 4th gear (OD). 3rd gear does NOT use a band in a GM so I would suspect the problem lies in the valve body. I cant believe they let this go out the door like that. An amateur transmission guy should have noticed the 3rd gear slip immediately. Why is your check engine light on? $3300 seems kind of high (but that may be what the market rate is in your area). Around $2200 for a 4wd GM fullsize truck/suv in my area for a complete textbook rebuild with new converter, all valve body updates, pump rebuild and standard clutch, steels and seals, new fluid and filter.
 
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roveer

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Heres what I saw on the new videos. 1-2 shift and 2-3 shift. 3rd gear was slipping, thats why the rpm's were wavering during that shift. You didnt get up to speed for a 3-4 shift so I never saw 4th gear (OD). 3rd gear does NOT use a band in a GM so I would suspect the problem lies in the valve body. I cant believe they let this go out the door like that. An amateur transmission guy should have noticed the 3rd gear slip immediately. Why is your check engine light on? $3300 seems kind of high (but that may be what the market rate is in your area). Around $2200 for a 4wd GM fullsize truck/suv in my area for a complete textbook rebuild with new converter, all valve body updates, pump rebuild and standard clutch, steels and seals, new fluid and filter.

Welcome to NJ... I'm sure I got none of those things you listed, just torn down and the minimum of parts replaced. I just noticed a full reman for 1,500.00 after core with all updates, plastic changed to alum etc... I was contemplating that route, but then decided against it since I'd be getting a tranny from someplace far away and what would I do if I had problems.

These guys were terribly old school. I kept mentioning the things I had learned about on-line but they didn't seem to want to talk about the worn out valve body and the Sonnax kits..

I'm going to do one more video on a nice hill from stop through 4th so we can see all the shifts. This way I can better understand what's happening. I believe there was some craziness going into 4th when I went up this hill which puts a nice load on the transmission. I'll post it later tonight.

Oh, and the shop listed it as a 4L60E when in actuality it's a 4L65E I checked the RPO code in the glove box and it's a M32 which decodes to a 65E. I hope that mistake didn't effect any parts they may have been changing.
 
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roveer

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OK, Not the best video. Let me know if I should take it out on the highway and open it up. This was up a hill, but I can't get going much faster than 50 on these roads.

Does look like it's 2nd to 3rd when the crazy tach jump happens. I was on the highway today and shifting into 4th seemed just fine. I'm really upset that this shop probably didn't even use a rebuild kit and just threw a couple of parts in to make it work. I did pay 3300 bucks for this work. From my previous post, the shop has it listed as a 4L60E and it is in fact a 4L65E, I looked up the RPO codes to verify 65E not 60E.

So what can you tell me about this problem for my 'discussion' with the shop owner? I'm assuming this is a slip and will eventually burn a clutch pack?

Check engine light is on for PO300 (multiple cylinder misfire) have to dig into that next. Seems like a very recent problem, and have never seen it before on this vehicle.

BTW, TPS sensor changed last month. Wondering about MAF sensor. Both have been written about to give bad shifts. I might have one on another GMC Yukon that I could swap in to test.

 
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