09 Tahoe Hybrid 204k miles. I have had a blinking stabilitrak light on hard turns at speed and when going slow since I bought the truck several months back. I have driven it about 8000 miles. I thought it had stopped after the last front wheel hub bearing replacement was done but it still does it. The light comes on and blinks on hard turns mainly on right turns. This really gets to be a problem on a Interstate On Ramp that has a tight right turn, if the light is blinking the engine will NOT accelerate until the light stops blinking this could take 2 to 3 seconds and that creates a dangerous situation trying to merge int traffic. Obviously I can slow down to an almost crawl around the turn and the light stays off but I think it is time to look at this closer and figure out what is really going on. Has anyone here experienced this particular issue before? I am seeing 3 main components in the GM system. Yaw Control sensor / Steering wheel angle sensor /accelerometer. Both front wheel hub bearings have been replaced since I have owned it so I think that eliminates a wheel speed sensor issue? Now this Hybrid is lifted 3.5" and has oversize wheels 20x10 and oversize tires 285/55R20 so of course that could contribute to the issue. Just wondering if anyone in either stock configuration or lifted has noticed the issue? There is some data online about the blinking stabilitrak light is a normal condition but does not mention that it stops the engine from accelerating when it is blinking! I really do not care if it blinks once in a while but I need all 385 horses on line when merging! NO CODES are stored.......
Stabilitrak light blinking NO Acceleration
- Thread starter dnt1010
- Start date
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if you don't find anything visible like Steven mentioned then you are just guessing, you need a tech2 scan or other higher end scanner like a snap on that can read the bcm code and that will take you directly to the problem, makes this job really easy.
It is very mysterious my neighbor has a techll and he tried to pull up codes there is nothing stored. He said it would not throw a code for the system activating and it is NORMAL for it to shut down power if the system decides the combination of Yaw /steering and accelerometer sensor outputs tells it to? I don't know. I just slow way down at sharp turns now. Most likely the sensors are negatively affected by the 3.5" lift. Silly Tahoe could just flop right over on its side I guess thanks stabiltrac for saving me Haha.............
Yeah......I’m not so sure about that but I’ve been wrong 13,768 times and counting. Have you used the Tech2 while drifting get real-time data? Might be a good idea. It sounds like you can replicate the problem. More and more it sounds like a loose or faulty wheel speed sensor.
So I stopped by to get an alignment check done and they showed me that the passenger side bushing that holds the electric steering rack casing has play in it. Looks like a split bushing that will be easy to replace if I can find one. Also have some play in passenger side bottom ball joint so orderign upper and lower for tha side. (other side has been replaced) I am wondering it these 2 things might be contributing to the issue. They checked the Speed sensor connections/cables and said they were good. Both front wheel hub bearings were replaced in the last few thousand miles with no change in the frequency of the stabiltrac coming on and preventing acceleration. To clarify stabiltrac does not prevent acceleration every time the light blinks, the majority of the time the light on the dash just blinks and it drives normally with full acceleration. On really HARD turns is when it becomes a problem. Anyway heading for RockAuto to order parts in a few mins. and will install and get alignment and see what I got then. Thanks for the input. As Arnold said "I will be back"
No Change in the issue. I have learned to slow down on hard turns which is probbaly a good thing anyway as it saves wear on the Nitto Grapplers LOL. One of these days i may look further into. If someone else out there in forum land has had this issue and solved it please post what you did. Thanks.
You didn’t say anything about the rear wheel speed sensors. You need a Tech 2 or similar to watch all 4 while you’re driving to see if any of them are inaccurate, or replace both rears to see if they’re causing it.
Also they checked the connection but did they test the sensors? Let’s see if the tech2 guru James @swathdiver has anything else you can do since you have access to one.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Dem Hubs, what brand are they? I once bought a Chicom hub for my van, works perfect but the Speed Sensor NEVER worked so the lights stayed on. These cars don't always take kindly to aftermarket parts, Timken is the OE supplier of the hubs.
Seems to me there's too much give on turns, causing the sensor to detect that something isn't right and setting off the system.
Moog on one side and cannot remember on other but it was doing the same before the front wheel bearing change outs. I never thought about the REAR wheel speed sensors I will do a close up inspection on those. Thanks for the input.
I have driven it for over 17k miles and the issue has not improved or worsened so that leads me away from any electrical type connection it is to consistent and seem to point to an I/O problem with the data somewhere in the system. I would like to have a tech2 for myself, I may just have to spring for one.
I have driven it for over 17k miles and the issue has not improved or worsened so that leads me away from any electrical type connection it is to consistent and seem to point to an I/O problem with the data somewhere in the system. I would like to have a tech2 for myself, I may just have to spring for one.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Alright then, zero in on those rear sensors and see if one is loose or being affected by something back there and let us know. Spring for the Tech-2, it will pay for itself in short order, especially with a Hybrid.
Oem hub the main issue is you should be able to pretty much drive reckless with out it activating (or at lest being annoying). make sure the battery posts are secure
loose battery posts can cause random electrical problems ..
It's funny how many of the users here will change random parts to try and fix something..
I try to always make sure the part i'm replacing is actually the problem part...
but this seems to apply to you
it's the latest version on the TSB
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10145486-9999.pdf
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if the stabiltrac light is coming on or flashing then there has to be a reason why and the tech2 should see it even if it is not saving a code, I would try to log the data while driving. I might also try pulling the abs fuse and take it for another drive and see if the problem goes away or not. Otherwise I would monitor various live data while driving and see what is up.
maybe even put it on 4 jack stands and put it in gear and try turning the steering wheel all the way each way various times while watching the data on the tech2
does it only do it when turning left? or does it only do it turning right? or does it do it either way?
you may be able to individually test the steering wheel sensor and/or yaw sensor with the tech2
maybe even put it on 4 jack stands and put it in gear and try turning the steering wheel all the way each way various times while watching the data on the tech2
does it only do it when turning left? or does it only do it turning right? or does it do it either way?
you may be able to individually test the steering wheel sensor and/or yaw sensor with the tech2
I am pretty sure it is the lift kit that was installed causing the problem since it occurs whether turning right of left at about the same degree of lean and steering input on a hard turn. It just looks so cool lifted that I hate to change it so at some point I may have a shop do a proper lift on it so the suspension is not all jacked out of alignment which I suspect is what is causing the stabiltrac sensitivity.
have your tried resetting the system
by Initializing the StabiliTrak??? so it can "relearn"
try pressing the button on the lower part below the A/C controller
mine had the light on but I forced a relearn on it everything is good so far press the button (might be stiff due to the lack of use) hold it tell it turns off then turn off the engine then turn it back on then turn it off and on again this clear the light off of mine after battery went dead
mine had the light on but I forced a relearn on it everything is good so far press the button (might be stiff due to the lack of use) hold it tell it turns off then turn off the engine then turn it back on then turn it off and on again this clear the light off of mine after battery went dead
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