Randeez 2012 Budget Yukon Denali Build (stick on hood scoops galore)

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randeez

randeez

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Welp this absolutely isnt a bolt on mod lol

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randeez

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I reworked the entire harness to route it under the intake, grabbed the correct injector plug pigtails and have been splicing them in (waiting on 5 more) didnt feel like looking at adapters anymore. had to extend the injector wiring on the driverside, extend the alternator wiring and the temp.

the fuel rail runs into the back of the alternator, ive heard the smaller alternators theres enough room to put a regular 90* fitting on it...but i'm not going to go to a smaller alternator so ive grabbed the lowest profile 90* (and most expensive apparently) i could find.

the bracket i grabbed for the fuel pressure regulator mounts off the timing cover and puts the regulator horizontally. i grabbed some stuff to make the connectors in hard pipe. flexible hose with the fittings just takes way to much room up. not set in stone with using it yet but if i can get it to look good itll ride

transmission is en route, should be delivered this week.

and i also drilled and tapped another 1/8-npt in the manifold for vac/boost distribution block. there is a 3/8 npt hole in the back of the manifold i prob could have used it for everything but im going to use it only for pcv system so i dont oil down fuel pump switch and bov and anything else
to add onto this - there is a sensor that connects to the vacuum brake booster that has a check valve. i'm going to see if i can use it for the pcv system, i'll have to extend the wires but ill just leave it plugged in hopefully it will also keep any codes/warnings from popping up on the dash

and i need to figure out a good way to get the stock fuel line/pump into the system. before i had it connected to the regulator, but with regulator in front location thatd be another hose id have to run under the manifold. trying to figure out a nice way to put it on the back but already have a y-fitting on one side splitting -10an feed x 8an x 8an for each rail
 
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randeez

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decided to scrap the regulator in the valley plans...for now. Regulator going back on the hood support piece. 10an runs to back of passenger rail, crosses to driver side across front, and back of driverside goes to regulator 8an hose/rail. Stock fuel line is connected to regulator like I had before.

Transmission will be here tomorrow, prob wont go in the till this weekend tho.

And back to the stockest hi ram install ever?!? I worked the evap purge line to reconnect it lol. the stock line come from behind the engine with that quick connect nylon tubing with about 20" and a 90 degree on it. so i removed the quick connect from one wide of the tube, cut it down, heated it up, and got the quick connect back inside the tubing to the solenoid valve. i think wiring will be long enough to make it there. the other side; i removed the tubing from the quick connect and was trying to figure out what to do with it - well the 1/4 tubing i am using for wastegate/bov/whatever slid inside of the quick connect 90 real tight so i threw some plastic epoxy on it and glued that ***** up! should work out fine, maybe a little small? but i think itll work.
im not a totally save the environment hippy or anything but i would just really like to retain as much of the comfort as i can, i want to be able to sit in traffic and not smell fumes if i have to, etc. if it would have turned into a big deal and needed abunch of extras i would have just done away with it, but it was pretty simple just wanted to show a lot of the factory crap can be retained with a little ingenuity . will be connect catch can to back of hi ram to driver valve cover and passenger to in front of turbo.

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randeez

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/\ for the transmission, PCM of NC is where i got the conversion harness other than 2 wires its plug n play and comes with a t42 tcm.

would usually need torque converter and flex plate specific to the 4l80. Circle D recommended just to chop up the triple disc converter i had, use the billet parts and convert it to work for the 4l80. that saves me from needing new flex plate and only cost me a few hundred ratehr than another billet 3-5 disc torque converter ($1300+) - not sure if starter would need to be swapped or not
 
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randeez

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yall done?

:anitoof:

waiting on a vacuum/boost block- motion raceworks bolts to the head hoping to do passenger side rear, have to just route a few hoses to it. that evap, blow off valve, psi switch for 2nd fuel pump im hoping i can mount it right to the block.
need to see where flex fuel sensor wiring ended up- thought it was moving, need to get it loomed, the brake booster (now pcv check valve) has a switch i want to hook back up to keep lights off the dash, got the rest off the fuel injector pigtails i need to splice in.

need to cut 10an fuel feed hose to length and secure it and the factory lines (theres supports off the trans from factory)

im hiding a lot of stuff behind/under the manifold, some of it is easier to work from under truck (without trans) so when i get all of it done then i can throw the 4l80 in. also want to check torque converter to flex plate measurement so if theres any problems i know BEFORE i put the trans in the truck

hot parts are all getting ceramic coated so theyll be another week (should have made the decision to send out earlier) but i also have a feeling ill need driveshafts made anyway so i'll see be waiting after all this goes back in
 
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randeez

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Its what's on the inside that counts? :anitoof:

Kind of a let down to bust it open and see an old, but very cleaned up and painted, case. But knew it was what was coming, said they like to use the older case for fluid transfer or some crap. Alas the entire case has prob been hot tanked, cleaned and painted no one will ever see more than the pan anyway.
I threw an old short hose I had laying around to loop the cooler fittings. And made sure the transfer case adapter works. It is about 1.5-2" longer than the 6l80
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