Big 3 Help

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CJ Rodarme

CJ Rodarme

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Also, I took it out for the first drive with the big 3 and there’s a noticeable difference to me. That being said the yukon is my only vehicle so I’m pretty in tune with how it drives. As doubeleive noted it idles smoother, especially on a cold start. Also the trans shifts smoother and faster. Not sure about radio improvement because I currently have no head unit in it. I don’t really think it’s a placebo effect either. Not sure why but hey I’m not complaining
 

adriver

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On the off chance I'm wrong about the external regulator, just so were clear, I know its that way on the pickups. I was only assuming its the same on the SUVs. I think it is, but if someone knows better that for some reason its different, I'm all ears.



The e-fans use about 25-30 amps on the 2005-2007 classic fans. The NNBS fans use a little more. That was a big jump, so yeah, that could be why they went to the external regulator.



Something I never see mentioned with the big 3 is the negative battery terminal. I added one of the gold plated terminals for few bucks (because of the stereo), and my vehicle NOTICEABLY starts much quicker. It went from a 1 1/2 - 2 second cranking to about 1/4-1/2 second. It may not matter at all in the long run, but I figure I'm putting less wear on the battery, starter, and engine.
If I was in a cold weather climate where cranking might kill the battery before it starts, I would definitely buy one for every vehicle.
 
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CJ Rodarme

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I've got a gold plated bolt on the negative and a bolt extender on the positive. I was planning on the other way around but I ended up needing the extra bolt length for the two ring terminals I need on positive. Not sure if it's part of the difference made but I'm sure it has to help a little.
 

adriver

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I didn't want to use those terminals. The numbers I found based off current flow compared to material thickness, I didn't want to use any terminals that were going to be under rated..




You can get these in aluminum (ILL CUSTOMZ) and for about half the price of the copper version. These are about $25.

s-l1600.jpg




I wanted to be able to use Lugs, and I first went with these next ones. Copper is a little better and tried these (SKY HIGH CAR AUDIO) These are about $50-$60

-Car-Audio-4-Lug-Flat-SAE-Copper-Battery-Terminals.jpg



The problem with these on our vehicle is the side mounted posts. I had a pretty new battery, so I wanted to use it. These terminals are kind of heavy. They were quickly loosening up the battery posts.


Then I found these. $60

upload_2019-3-11_13-19-31.png


https://squareup.com/store/boat-steering-solutions-llc/

They have the post hole centered so the weight is distributed evenly. These have been working great for me.
 

HiHoeSilver

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I didn't want to use those terminals. The numbers I found based off current flow compared to material thickness, I didn't want to use any terminals that were going to be under rated..




You can get these in aluminum (ILL CUSTOMZ) and for about half the price of the copper version. These are about $25.

s-l1600.jpg




I wanted to be able to use Lugs, and I first went with these next ones. Copper is a little better and tried these (SKY HIGH CAR AUDIO) These are about $50-$60

-Car-Audio-4-Lug-Flat-SAE-Copper-Battery-Terminals.jpg



The problem with these on our vehicle is the side mounted posts. I had a pretty new battery, so I wanted to use it. These terminals are kind of heavy. They were quickly loosening up the battery posts.


Then I found these. $60

View attachment 218435

https://squareup.com/store/boat-steering-solutions-llc/

They have the post hole centered so the weight is distributed evenly. These have been working great for me.

Where are the gold ones you talked about?
 

HiHoeSilver

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On the off chance I'm wrong about the external regulator, just so were clear, I know its that way on the pickups. I was only assuming its the same on the SUVs. I think it is, but if someone knows better that for some reason its different, I'm all ears.



The e-fans use about 25-30 amps on the 2005-2007 classic fans. The NNBS fans use a little more. That was a big jump, so yeah, that could be why they went to the external regulator.



Something I never see mentioned with the big 3 is the negative battery terminal. I added one of the gold plated terminals for few bucks (because of the stereo), and my vehicle NOTICEABLY starts much quicker. It went from a 1 1/2 - 2 second cranking to about 1/4-1/2 second. It may not matter at all in the long run, but I figure I'm putting less wear on the battery, starter, and engine.
If I was in a cold weather climate where cranking might kill the battery before it starts, I would definitely buy one for every vehicle.

06 z71 Confirmed.

15523381373842696512746057934929.jpg
 

adriver

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Did you mean just the gold plated battery posts? Auto parts stores will usually carry them. Amazon or ebay, about $5 for each side. You can look for some copper posts that are even better. Probably about $15 each. (to me its one of those reusable parts).

51AwjkslSUL.jpg
 
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CJ Rodarme

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So I got the system together last light and I’ve ran into a few problems. My voltage is still fluctuating. I’m not sure if it’s my alternator or my battery but my money is on the alternator. I’m considering just getting a mechman 240 for it. I’ll get a battery soon after as well. Does anyone have experience with mechman alts or any company that makes alternators (besides eBay h/o alts)?
 

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So I got the system together last light and I’ve ran into a few problems. My voltage is still fluctuating. I’m not sure if it’s my alternator or my battery but my money is on the alternator. I’m considering just getting a mechman 240 for it. I’ll get a battery soon after as well. Does anyone have experience with mechman alts or any company that makes alternators (besides eBay h/o alts)?

Mechman has refurbished 240a alts for 190$ right now, just ordered 1 for my truck. https://www.mechman.com/closeout-deals/240-amp-1996-2004-gm-truck-alternator-refurbished/
 

adriver

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I'm using a mechman right now. Paid a lot more than that for mine. I would go with that with no worries.

I've read up on alternators a little, and found that most of the time an alternator goes bad, its just the voltage regulator. The contact brushes go bad and its a small piece with a couple of screws holding it on, you replace and reinstall. Its as simple as it sounds, and the voltage regulator is less than $20. I've fixed an alternator of mine this way before, and would only assume most of them are this way too.
 
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CJ Rodarme

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I'm about to purchase one of those refurbished ones tomorrow. Are they plug and play or do I need a voltage regulator?

EDIT: Just ordered one. Cant wait for it to come in
 
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adriver

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No, it will be in working condition when it arrives, that's refurbished (used, but inspected and working).

It should be just remove the old and replace with the new, HOWEVER, the mechman one I bought had a separate pigtail. The pigtail (which is a roughly 5 inch long harness that went between the two plugs), had a separate wire that had to be ran to an accessory switch. (It has a remote wire, just like an amp). I just ran that along the main harness into the fuse box area, and found an open accessory circuit. This was for an Elite series alternator, which that one is not. I don't know about other models.
 
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CJ Rodarme

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Since the one I got is the "base" model I doubt I'll have that. But if it does have that pigtail, what fuse did you run it to?
 
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CJ Rodarme

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Or check out Steve Mead’s big 3 vid on YouTube, it shows the same as I did
 

alowerlevel

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I'm about to purchase one of those refurbished ones tomorrow. Are they plug and play or do I need a voltage regulator?

EDIT: Just ordered one. Cant wait for it to come in

It's plug and play, had mine installed 45 min after fedex dropped it off.
 
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CJ Rodarme

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I installed my 240 today and I absolutely love it, straightforward install and cleaned up the way my subs hit.
 

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