3 inch lift

[Steveothekid]

i want to lift my 2003 Tahoe LT 5.3. I'm not looking for a six inch lift. I'm looking for a 3 inch lift and I don't want to spend a grand on just a lift. What're my options???

Thanks

 

[Countryboy07]

Keys, spacers and a 1.5 inch body lift would do the trick. Looks really good and is very budget friendly.

 

[Steveothekid]

Keys, spacers and a 1.5 inch body lift would do the trick. Looks really good and is very budget friendly.

Will that still get me more ground clearance? I thought a body lift just made it look like your truck was higher. I want the functional aspect as well.

Thanks

 

[Countryboy07]

Will that still get me more ground clearance? I thought a body lift just made it look like your truck was higher. I want the functional aspect as well.

Thanks

You'll only gain the clearance from the keys and spacers. You can crank to 3" off a key and spacer type "level" but your front suspension will hate you and wear prematurely because of poor CV shaft angles.

 

[73impala]

2wd or 4wd? if 2wd can run lift spindles.

 

[Countryboy07]

2wd or 4wd? if 2wd can run lift spindles.

Very true, didn't think about 2wd vs. 4wd

 

[Steveothekid]

4wd

 

[73impala]

Well that is out then. For a 3" your only real option then is keys for the front and rear coil spacer

 

[06JET]

Remember that when you install a body lift that it may not add ground clearance on it's own, it will allow you to install bigger tires that will give you more ground clearance. The plus is that if you ever need to change out the brake lines or fuel lines or anything under there you will have more room and it make life a whole lot easier.

 

[castine917]

Will that still get me more ground clearance? I thought a body lift just made it look like your truck was higher. I want the functional aspect as well.

Thanks

Technically a suspension lift doesn’t give you more ground clearance. Lifts give room for bigger tires which give you the ground clearance. When you do a body lift the body goes higher and you get some clearance from those spots where the body would have contacted first. When you do a suspension lift you lift the frame and body then only gain clearance where they would’ve hit first. For either lift your differentials were still at same height as before and would still hit. The bigger tires raise the differentials by half of the increased tire height.

 

[BeenChevy]

Well explained Chad.

steveothekid - The 3" lift via keys and coil spacers for less than 1k will do the job. Since you're new to the forum it's worth mentioning to read up on the pros and cons of lifting the truck via key's which in the end will cost more than 1k in either parts replacements or part correction/labor/time.

To save you a bit of time - if you go with key's and coil spacers; it's best to redo front-end components (specifically your upper arms). The stock balljoint's cannot withstand the increased angle for long and fail pre-mature. CV-boots at the increased angle also tear pre-mature and sling grease all over after cranking the FE. CV-spacers aren't a bad idea to retain them. If you're adding larger tires, it's a good or good idea in general to sleeve your tie rods to add strength there. I've learned the hard way on a couple of these trucks and wish I would have invested in a lift kit off the git.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Your CV axles are really intended to be mostly straight throughout their operation. They do bend to comply with bumps..

Keys make them bend all the time. This wears them out faster. It is also harder alex on bearings in front diff, puts a more downward strain on them and wears them out.

Your braking will work like $heet as well. All vehicles are designed to slope to front so front brakes do the work, where weight is. Your abs will kick in much easier, and pr lock your brakes up easier.

Won't steer as well, when leveled... there is ledd weight on front end. It will feel soft. And it wont bite on turn in as well.

Trailering forget it. Ppl do it. But i think is insane.

I am an engineer i was on a racing team and we designed our own chasis. After market companies who sell lift kits dont have the models to understand dynamic behavior once their parts are installed. Lift kits are extremely dangerous. And well serve a purpose but not for the road.

Is my professional opinion. If you want to make a show car and or off road beast it is a great idea. However not too gd for road. If you do re configure you need all new suspension control arms etc to properly align the mechanicals or will wear them out.

I would just stick to bigger tires that fit, and or remove accessories under doors. If you lift, maybe an inch on the front.

It is best to just buy a truck that is already lifted from factory.

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[Matthew Jeschke]

Sorry for typos i am not too gd at typing on my phone.

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[Steveothekid]

Your CV axles are really intended to be mostly straight throughout their operation. They do bend to comply with bumps..

Keys make them bend all the time. This wears them out faster. It is also harder alex on bearings in front diff, puts a more downward strain on them and wears them out.

Your braking will work like $heet as well. All vehicles are designed to slope to front so front brakes do the work, where weight is. Your abs will kick in much easier, and pr lock your brakes up easier.

Won't steer as well, when leveled... there is ledd weight on front end. It will feel soft. And it wont bite on turn in as well.

Trailering forget it. Ppl do it. But i think is insane.

I am an engineer i was on a racing team and we designed our own chasis. After market companies who sell lift kits dont have the models to understand dynamic behavior once their parts are installed. Lift kits are extremely dangerous. And well serve a purpose but not for the road.

Is my professional opinion. If you want to make a show car and or off road beast it is a great idea. However not too gd for road. If you do re configure you need all new suspension control arms etc to properly align the mechanicals or will wear them out.

I would just stick to bigger tires that fit, and or remove accessories under doors. If you lift, maybe an inch on the front.

It is best to just buy a truck that is already lifted from factory.

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

I would do a suspension lift kit but they don't make anything smaller than 6 inches. I want 3 inches max so i figured keys were the way to go. what other parts would you recommend to go along with the keys to combat the issues that come with it? if you wouldn't mind linking specific parts that would be amazing, if not it's okay. just looking for some guidance. My end goal is to run 285's on the truck and have a bit more clearance, nothing crazy.

thanks

 

[BeenChevy]

Wuss

 

[Steveothekid]

Wuss

thanks strong man

 

[BeenChevy]

Install:
-Cognito upper arms
-LCA jounce spacers
-New pitman & idler arms
-Beefier steering link
-Cognito steering brace kit
-Tie rod sleeves

All of this is recommended for a 3" key lift in my opinion. Good idea to refresh your hubs, stabilizer links, shocks, and longer rear sway bar links as well.

 

[Steveothekid]

Install:
-Cognito upper arms
-LCA jounce spacers
-New pitman & idler arms
-Beefier steering link
-Cognito steering brace kit
-Tie rod sleeves

All of this is recommended for a 3" key lift in my opinion. Good idea to refresh your hubs, stabilizer links, shocks, and longer rear sway bar links as well.

Thanks a lot i appreciate it

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

I would do a suspension lift kit but they don't make anything smaller than 6 inches. I want 3 inches max so i figured keys were the way to go. what other parts would you recommend to go along with the keys to combat the issues that come with it? if you wouldn't mind linking specific parts that would be amazing, if not it's okay. just looking for some guidance. My end goal is to run 285's on the truck and have a bit more clearance, nothing crazy.

thanks

You will want longer shocks and or an adapters to keep yours within their range of travel. Of course you will need the new keys. I am not sure how much effect that angle will have on CV axles, also changed pressure on front diff itself. In end mine were mostly fine, despite my fears.

I am also not for sure how much the suspention will let you stretch it. It is possible you may press it to its extreme edge of travel simply lifting it that far. Prob i am wrong. You can jack up truck and see how far wheels can droop in front.

My best advice would be to look at how gm tuned other suspensions for those years. Say 2500, 3500, setups with mostly similar components. Possibly you could eve swap some parts from those onto your truck.


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[BeenChevy]

That's a good tip. After the keys are in make sure to cycle suspension or jack up and lower each arm, tuning the keys until you can liff the front end and turn the hubs without binding. This approach keeps my CV boots from flinging grease.

After that you can size your jounce bumps and end links.

Both of mine are riding a bit lower now but handling had improved especially 4w across the lake.