What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Thouse

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Yeah I had just redone the whole interior. I’ve got most of the roof repaired just two small dents I’ve got to get out and clean the broken glass and replace the back window on it. Unfortunately the Tahoe at this point I think is going to require a full paint job as it’s easier just to replace the fender and door rather than repair them. The glass repair on it I think I can do myself I can order a new one for about 100 dollars.

Time to build a beefier carport. Although you guys did have snowmageddon down there right?
 

Tonyrodz

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For sure! I'm chomping at the bit haha. But unfortunately I'm going to be in India when they finish, so I won't be able to pick it up until some time in January after I return.

I'm going to try to get some pics/video up before then, but I'll be at the mercy of someone else's camera lol.
India? Nice. Gotta post some pics of there too:D
 

Thouse

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Yeah we did and I won’t be going back with this style carport. I think I will do a A roof one that way it just slides off

How old is the carport- perhaps float the idea by the manufacturer that it shouldn't have collapsed?

I would be careful with even a sloped roof carport depending on the amount of snow and how heavy it still might accumulate enough to cause structural damage.
 

NCTyphoonKid

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How old is the carport- perhaps float the idea by the manufacturer that it shouldn't have collapsed?

I would be careful with even a sloped roof carport depending on the amount of snow and how heavy it still might accumulate enough to cause structural damage.

I’ve learned my lesson I will get out there and rake it off.
 

NCTyphoonKid

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How old is the carport- perhaps float the idea by the manufacturer that it shouldn't have collapsed?

I would be careful with even a sloped roof carport depending on the amount of snow and how heavy it still might accumulate enough to cause structural damage.

I’ve learned my lesson I will get out there and rake it off.
 

Bombsquad85

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Hwy guys. Quick (maybe) question. But if you were water, and you wanted to sneak into the air conditioning system after the truck goes through the car wash. Where would you enter?

Lol I take my truck to the local carwash frequently but after the last time my blower motor resistor almost got fired. I was able to take it apart dry it and silicone it shut but I'm afraid that if I go through the wash again it'll keep happening. What I want to do is find out where this water is getting into the system but I'm unsure where that could be
 

Tonyrodz

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Hwy guys. Quick (maybe) question. But if you were water, and you wanted to sneak into the air conditioning system after the truck goes through the car wash. Where would you enter?

Lol I take my truck to the local carwash frequently but after the last time my blower motor resistor almost got fired. I was able to take it apart dry it and silicone it shut but I'm afraid that if I go through the wash again it'll keep happening. What I want to do is find out where this water is getting into the system but I'm unsure where that could be
I think there's a thread on here where a guy was having a similar issue. Iirc, under the front cowl there's a plate screwed or bolted--above the hvac area and the weatherstripping there, sometimes fails and it might allow water to get in. Maybe take a look under the cowl, on thd passenger side.
 

dnt1010

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09 Tahoe 4x4 Stopped by my local mr fixit auto repair today for them to check a front end noise. Drivers side hub bearing was the expert diagnosis. For there professional services and a replacement "off brand" hub bearing it would be right a 450 bones. I had to call BS on that LOL. So I ordered a replacement MOOG from rock auto a minute ago plus a 36mm socket (less than 150 bones). After reading a bit further online it looks like maybe I should have ordered a new axle spindle nut too? Some youtube videos that I watched that are supposed to be expert repair facilities, appear to just reuse the axle nut? Also seeing some bad reviews on the MOOG hub bearing (and all others) not sure if I made the right brand choice or not? Anyone out there that can vouch for MOOG or some other brand to be long lasting? This one guy had a video of the interior of the MOOG hub bearing showing the advantages. Check it out.
 

Massfloefi

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Timken is usually the concensus but people have installed moog with no problems. I replaced my spindle nut as they say that’s the proper thing to do. I’ve seen many posts indicating that they did not. I think you’ll be fine but if I wanted the peace of mind while your going threw all that to replace a hub bearing I would.
 

HiHoeSilver

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Timken is usually the concensus but people have installed moog with no problems. I replaced my spindle nut as they say that’s the proper thing to do. I’ve seen many posts indicating that they did not. I think you’ll be fine but if I wanted the peace of mind while your going threw all that to replace a hub bearing I would.

May also want to double check the existing nut. Not sure if it's a model year thing or what, but some trucks (mine was one) have a 35mm nut stock. The Dorman replacement is 36.
 

Massfloefi

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May also want to double check the existing nut. Not sure if it's a model year thing or what, but some trucks (mine was one) have a 35mm nut stock. The Dorman replacement is 36.

Yeah I don't know why there are different sizes but I purchased a 35mm socket and it turned out that the original nut and the Ac Delco replacement where 36mm for me.
 

SnowDrifter

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FWIW you only need to replace the spindle nut if it's a locker of some variety. Either oval shaped or with a detent. Oval shaped because metal is elastic and will lose its spring over time. Detent because once you smack that punch, there are no do-overs. I can't remember which these are.
 

SnowDrifter

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Walked outside and got angry at my own record keeping.

Fog lights are leaking. Both of them. And they're only 2.5 years old. I could not for the life of me find a receipt to check if they still have a warranty. Will be pulling them out and re-sealing my own way
 

Massfloefi

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FWIW you only need to replace the spindle nut if it's a locker of some variety. Either oval shaped or with a detent. Oval shaped because metal is elastic and will lose its spring over time. Detent because once you smack that punch, there are no do-overs. I can't remember which these are.

If I recall correctly I believe it has a very slight oval shape to it.
 

Massfloefi

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Yep zoom in on this pic. You can see that it is oval. This is the correct part number for my truck. I would assume the part number for all our trucks is the same?

image1.png
 

M3kanic

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I have literally have done dozens of wheel bearings on these trucks. No name bearings last a year at most, moog I have had last 2 or 3 years, timkin bearings will last as long as you own the truck. I have always reused the nut no matter what the size is (sometimes multiple times) it should take about an hour each side depending on how north you are. It is on the same skill level as brakes with just a few more steps (depending if you are 4wd/awd or 2wd)

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

Scottydoggs

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I have literally have done dozens of wheel bearings on these trucks. No name bearings last a year at most, moog I have had last 2 or 3 years, timkin bearings will last as long as you own the truck. I have always reused the nut no matter what the size is (sometimes multiple times) it should take about an hour each side depending on how north you are. It is on the same skill level as brakes with just a few more steps (depending if you are 4wd/awd or 2wd)

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

ive bought timkin hubs and inside the box was a skf with skf directions. at this point i think only one of the best know suppliers are making these, the good name brands just resell em. timkin moog skf, likely all the same these days. timkin stopped the 3 year warranty too as far as i know.
 

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