Looking to buy a Tahoe. Which is the better scenario?

[zwanzon]

Hey everyone. I'm hoping to get some advice on which route I should take. My wife and I are having a baby in March so it's time to get a 2nd car for myself since my 350z is not "baby friendly". This will be used around town, camping trips, grocery getter, etc. I'm not too worried about gas mileage as I work from home. 4x4 would be a nice luxury to have since I live in Northern Cali. I'm only looking to spend about 17k on an 07' - 10'-ish model and I'm trying to decide between two options:

Option #1: Get a 07' - 10' with higher mileage (150k-ish+) for around 12k and keep 5k in my back pocket for when things start to go out or break.

Option #2: Get an 07' - 10' with lower mileage (80-90k) for around 16k and have less money to fix things, hoping the Tahoe will last longer with lower mileage.

I'm realistically only going to put 3-5k miles a year on this and I take really good care of my vehicles.

Researching on here I've noted the following:
1) Attempt to get 09+ in order to have the 6-speed transmission.
2) Stay away from 07' as it looks like it had quite a few issues. (?)(https://www.carcomplaints.com/Chevrolet/Tahoe/2007/)
3) Common problems to look for: Door handles, cracked dash
4) Disable AFM if applicable
5) The most important factor for buying used is knowing if it was well maintained. (fluids, oil changes, etc)

I've read though this thread: http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thre...-a-07-14-nnbs-tahoe-suburban-look-here.61720/ ...and see people have had all kinds of random problems, but that is expected with any used vehicle.

Any feedback is greatly appreciated!

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Hey everyone. I'm hoping to get some advice on which route I should take. My wife and I are having a baby in March so it's time to get a 2nd car for myself since my 350z is not "baby friendly". This will be used around town, camping trips, grocery getter, etc. I'm not too worried about gas mileage as I work from home. 4x4 would be a nice luxury to have since I live in Northern Cali. I'm only looking to spend about 17k on an 07' - 10'-ish model and I'm trying to decide between two options:

Option #1: Get a 07' - 10' with higher mileage (150k-ish+) for around 12k and keep 5k in my back pocket for when things start to go out or break.

Option #2: Get an 07' - 10' with lower mileage (80-90k) for around 16k and have less money to fix things, hoping the Tahoe will last longer with lower mileage.

I'm realistically only going to put 3-5k miles a year on this and I take really good care of my vehicles.

Researching on here I've noted the following:
1) Attempt to get 09+ in order to have the 6-speed transmission.
2) Stay away from 07' as it looks like it had quite a few issues. (?)(https://www.carcomplaints.com/Chevrolet/Tahoe/2007/)
3) Common problems to look for: Door handles, cracked dash
4) Disable AFM if applicable
5) The most important factor for buying used is knowing if it was well maintained. (fluids, oil changes, etc)

I've read though this thread: http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thre...-a-07-14-nnbs-tahoe-suburban-look-here.61720/ ...and see people have had all kinds of random problems, but that is expected with any used vehicle.

Any feedback is greatly appreciated!

Sounds like your ducks are pretty much in a row already! Lower mileage is always a plus, but it's trumped by better maintenance. Keep in mind that 150k is about half life for a well cared for tahoe.

 

[zwanzon]

Thanks for the feedback Silver. I stumbled upon this thread: http://nastyz28.com/threads/2007-2008-tahoe-with-4l60e-or-get-the-2009-with-the-6l80e.232490/

They mention the 4-speed transmission on the 07-08's might actually be the better bet..?

 

[Doubeleive]

I don't know I drove the 4 speed for 12 years, im kinda liking this 6 speed a LOT, but then again it was 5.3 and this is a 6.2 and im REALLY liking it a lot, lol

 

[swathdiver]

The 6-speed trucks are slightly more efficient. Bluetooth connectivity was added in 2009. In 2010 the USB ports for charging and connecting to the radio/nav. In 2012 the new navigation system was introduced. From about 2012 on the Tow/Haul Mode was progressively updated and made better.

Condition is more important than mileage, to a point. There's a rare '09 Tahoe with the 6.2 and 2WD for sale in Jacksonville, Florida the other day, looks to be in great condition. The L9H did not have AFM/DOD.

When you buy your truck, buy a Tech2 to go with it. One cannot properly diagnose and cure problems, or even know they exist, without one of these tools.

 

[iamdub]

I don't believe that there's much difference between 80-90K miles and 150K miles. The drastic price difference is because people still believe that once that 6th digit on the odometer is illuminated at the 100K mark, the vehicle is on the downhill and is nearing it's demise. So, a vehicle that still shows only 5 digits on the odometer brings a premium. Use the fact that you'll drive it very minimally to your advantage and go with the cheaper, higher-mileage option. About the only real maintenance expense between 80-150K miles is the suspension. It's common for the shocks/struts to be blown out by 80K. It seems that most people continue to ride on them so there's no difference between blown 80K-mile shocks and 150K-mile shocks that are still in service after being blown 70K miles ago. Use the money you saved on the purchase price to get new shocks/struts and you'll be better off in this aspect. Spending more for the lower-mileage one will get you "fresher" wear-item parts, but they're still near or past the end of their service life. I bought my '08 with 147K and never gave it a second thought. It was extremely well-maintained and was in near-mint condition. Now, at 184K, I'd still hop in it for a road trip anywhere at any time. It has/had all the usual and expected failures: cracked dash, motor mount(s), blown Autolevel airbags, blown Autoride shocks/struts, etc. I haven't done anything about the suspension because it's not pressing. The ride is firm (Autoride shocks ride harsher rather than softer when they fail), but they're not leaking. I'll address this when I lower it. My point is that these common failures are usually nothing detrimental. As far as the transmission, between my work vehicles and almost anything else I've driven, I'm used to a 6-speed and wish mine had it. But, the 4-speed is a tried-and-true unit and shouldn't be considered as much of a negative if you'll drive it so rarely. The only real concern I'd have is the AFM. Mine seems to be doing fine at it's mileage but I hear a lifter tick for a few seconds at startup ever so often. Really, it may not even be one of the AFM lifters doing it but it's much more likely that it is. Regardless, I had the AFM disabled with a tune in hopes that it would buy me time until I can delete the AFM or (preferably) swap in a non-AFM 6.0L. Paying someone to delete AFM is around $3,000 but less than half that if you do your own work. There again, finding a higher-mileage but great condition Tahoe will save you enough money to cover such repairs should they be needed. In theory, you'd have a motor just as reliable as the Gen3 and a new, smooth-riding suspension. You'll just have higher mileage on the odometer. With the lower-mileage option, you'll still have questionable AFM status and worn suspension but no "repair fund". The odometer looking prettier is about the only positive. You just have to search diligently. I feel I was very fortunate with my find.

 

[08HoeCD]

I bought an '08 with 126k miles and am happy. Yeah, there have been some maintenance items, but not significantly more than I would see with a vehicle with only 80k miles.

Be prepared to deal with brakes, shocks, lower control arms...plus little things like door lock actuators and maybe a cracked dash----I haven't seen that last one yet but it's common.

Invest in a tune from BlackBear Performance, not so much for increased power, which is noticeable, but to tune out AFM and to enhance everyday driveability.

 

[zwanzon]

Excellent advice guys, thanks. This makes me less worried about buying a 100k+ Tahoe and using any extra money for these issues that have been discussed. It also sounds like I'd be fine with either the 4 or 6-speed, so I will not rule out 08's.

Doing a "background check" on the VIN of whatever truck I'm looking to buy seems most important still in trying to determine if it was well maintained.

A couple other questions:

1) Should I expect to have more issues when buying a 4x4?

2) What does the LT2, LT3 tags stand for? I was looking at this 08' Tahoe which shows LT2.

 

[techbiker]

Excellent advice guys, thanks. This makes me less worried about buying a 100k+ Tahoe and using any extra money for these issues that have been discussed. It also sounds like I'd be fine with either the 4 or 6-speed, so I will not rule out 08's.

Doing a "background check" on the VIN of whatever truck I'm looking to buy seems most important still in trying to determine if it was well maintained.

A couple other questions:

1) Should I expect to have more issues when buying a 4x4?

2) What does the LT2, LT3 tags stand for? I was looking at this 08' Tahoe which shows LT2.

Jordan, you might consider a PPV (depending on how mechanically-inclined you are). Some from the Town of Addison TX recently sold for $9500-$10,000. These were 2012's and 2013's with 50k-60k miles. Of course PPVs will typically require some serious interior work.

I have heard the cracked dash issue and AFM issue were largely resolved by 2013.

 

[zwanzon]

Hey Tech, Ya we have PPV's here as well, most with high mileage though, still going for 10k-ish. I just feel like they all have been beaten and abused. I don't know the cost to reupholster the entire interior and putting in a new center console, etc, but it seems like a lot of work and would come out close to the same as a normal Tahoe for sale.

I would consider it, getting a 13' or 14' with 50k, we just don't have deals like that in CA. (for example this 09' or this 10') I thought about buying out of state to save on taxes, but it would be quite the risk to fly to Texas to look at a PPV.

 

[techbiker]

Hey Tech, Ya we have PPV's here as well, most with high mileage though, still going for 10k-ish. I just feel like they all have been beaten and abused. I don't know the cost to reupholster the entire interior and putting in a new center console, etc, but it seems like a lot of work and would come out close to the same as a normal Tahoe for sale.

I would consider it, getting a 13' or 14' with 50k, we just don't have deals like that in CA. (for example this 09' or this 10') I thought about buying out of state to save on taxes, but it would be quite the risk to fly to Texas to look at a PPV.

Have you looked at buying directly at a local county or city auction? Once I registered at Rene Bates auctioneers, I was able to place a bid for my late 2011. In the end I paid $7500 for a Tahoe with 70,800 miles. I also got all of the maintenance records from the County. I am spending $2000 to replace all of the bad interior parts. Some unnecessary spending and mechanical maintenance (new struts, etc.) and I'm at ~$12k total. So far (knocks on wood), our Tahoe is a real gem.

Dealers all have to make their profit. If you buy directly from a government, you can pocket the difference. Buying direct does increase your risk IMO. I drove 200 miles each way to inspect their vehicles and I was only given 30 minutes to do so. You will also be doing more deferred maintenance yourself, but at least you know the work is done correctly.

TLDR: What is your time worth?

P.S. You can usually snag great parts deals on Craigslist or OfferUp if you are diligent. I found a good 2nd row bench and rear door cards for $150.

 

[swathdiver]

Excellent advice guys, thanks. This makes me less worried about buying a 100k+ Tahoe and using any extra money for these issues that have been discussed. It also sounds like I'd be fine with either the 4 or 6-speed, so I will not rule out 08's.

Doing a "background check" on the VIN of whatever truck I'm looking to buy seems most important still in trying to determine if it was well maintained.

A couple other questions:

1) Should I expect to have more issues when buying a 4x4?

2) What does the LT2, LT3 tags stand for? I was looking at this 08' Tahoe which shows LT2.

You can download pdf copies of the brochures for just about every model year on a particular website, the name escapes me at the moment. Just google 2008 tahoe brochure and it'll come up. Then you can read what LT2 and such included that particular year.

With a 4WD, you can have more issues, there is more stuff to maintain and service and potentially break. That being said, I went with 4WD anyway for the peace of mind and just to have it. So that means more maintenance and in the earlier years, slightly lower fuel economy. Someday, the differentials will have to be rebuilt, the transfer case overhauled and new front u-joints or yokes, someday. Part of owning any 4x4.

Do you want to be that guy with a 2WD and highway tires getting caught in a snow storm or some washed out road in Northern Cali? Or the guy whose wife gets in that with 4WD and simply rotates the switch to 4WD and drives through whatever got in her way?

 

[HACK BLOCK]

definitely go with option #1. spend the 12k and use the extra cash to fix everything and at least u should have a solid ride for some time. if u went with option #2, in a way u would be waiting for something to happen and u gotta hope when that "something" does happen it doesn't leave you stranded somewhere with the baby

 

[savagebasher]

I bought my 07 with 113k back in Oct for $17k.. it is an LTZ and 4WD (I am in MN) and extremely clean so I did good on that price. Even had new tires! Mine had the typical issues, dash crack, door handles, dead power running boards, etc. But you would never guess it has 113k. It just rolled 118k and I had to add some oil so I just installed the Range AFM disable. I suspect I will get 75k out of it at least.. which for me is about 2-3 years Oh I also had do to the rear axle seals as the fluid was leaking onto brake parts causing smell and smoke.

Next, I will likely get a later model Yukon Denali.

 

[Big Mama]

Look for the tech toys you like too. I have an 07 Denali with lots of goodys but no Bluetooth. When it comes to miles I agree that 150 is nothing if the maintenance was done. Get all the records Anyone doing it will have records. Make sure seating is what you want like 2nd row captains chairs. It all adds up.

 

[Classehoe]

My 2 cents as someone who owns and repairs tahoes

I prefer the 3lt. Pretty close to ltz luxury with out the ridiculously expensive to repair suspension.
The iron block 5.3s seem to hold up better, mine just hit 260k miles with just the afm turned off.
The flex fuel fuel pumps seem to hold up better.
The 4l60e is much less expensive to repair than the 6l80e. The 6l80 tends to get more sloppy with age.
I typically go for clean body 1 owner new car tradeins with over 100k. Imo these owners tend to take the best care of their vehicles.
My truck is a 2007 3lt. It was fully serviced not(tires,brakes,ujoints) Ipaid 7995 2.5 years ago from a GMC dealer. I bought it with a little over 200k and it's at 260 with only minor repairs.

 

[08HoeCD]

Yup
I stumbled on a 3LT (LT3) and am amazed at all the features. I've driven all makes, including Audi and Infiniti, and I'm still more impressed with the array of features in my 10-year-old Tahoe. And no fear of the LTZ suspension taking a dump.

 

[zwanzon]

Such an incredible community here with great advice from everyone. I'm making a master list of all these comments that will truly help in my search.

A couple other questions if anyone knows:

1) Will 4x4 issues arise (like the ones mentioned) even if the 4x4 is not being used frequently? Does simply just having the 4x4 option on the truck create suspension issues down the road?
2) The Range Technology AFM Disable Device is $189 on Amazon. What does the BlackBear Performance Traditional Tune for $255 include that makes it the better choice? They don't really describe what the tune does (or at least I don't see it).

 

[swathdiver]

Such an incredible community here with great advice from everyone. I'm making a master list of all these comments that will truly help in my search.

A couple other questions if anyone knows:

1) Will 4x4 issues arise (like the ones mentioned) even if the 4x4 is not being used frequently? Does simply just having the 4x4 option on the truck create suspension issues down the road?
2) The Range Technology AFM Disable Device is $189 on Amazon. What does the BlackBear Performance Traditional Tune for $255 include that makes it the better choice? They don't really describe what the tune does (or at least I don't see it).

You have to use the front differential and transfer case, exercise them if you will, to keep them limbered up and ready to go from time to time. The parts are there and time goes on even if they are not being used, something can go wrong, someday, maybe.

A BleackBear tune is going to make the truck more fun and efficient to drive. They will tune the truck to your tastes. It can remove a set amount of torque management and improves the programming of the transmission and a host of other things that changes for the better how the truck drives. If they can keep their foot out of it, almost everyone experiences an increase in fuel economy too.

My engine from the factory is rated at 335 ft/lbs of torque. In stock form, the most torque I could see via the Tech2 on hard acceleration was 282 ft/lbs or torque. Just yesterday I happened to remember that feature and made an energetic but not full pedal to the metal acceleration from a stop and noted 326 ft/lbs of torque. Before the tune the truck's tires would never break traction. Now it's pretty much whenever I want to; that is with AT tires, not highway treads.

 

[iamdub]

The Range Device is good for what it is- a simple, plug-and-play way to disable AFM that can be removed if the vehicle is going in for warranty service or is sold. But all it does is disable AFM. If you can afford the extra $60-$80 and voiding a warranty is not a factor, a tune is by far the better choice. You can have AFM disabled and, as James mentioned, so many other tweaks that will vastly improve the driving experience and possibly even fuel economy.