Manifold Clamp - 07 Yukon 5.3 - HELP!

[93blkongreenpro]

Ok, figured I'd do a write-up so maybe it'll help someone else one day.

2008 Yukon XL Denali, 6.2

I installed two clamps; drivers side rear and passenger side rear. I used KRAL clams, KAP169 & KAP108.

My rear bolt heads were both broken off so these clamps seemed to be a perfect solution.

Passenger Side: Took me about 45 minutes from start to finish.
Remove wheel well shroud.
Remove oil dipstick bracket, 15mm.
Unplug spark plug wires 6 & 8
Bend dipstick tube away from manifold
Install clamp. Do not tighten the brace bolt until both bolts are securely fastened.
Trim heat shield with tin snips around plug 6 to fit around newly installed bracket.

Drivers Side: Took me about 2.5 hours.
The tools that allowed me to do this were some ratchet wrenches with a flex head. I needed 15mm & 17mm.
Unplug wire 7 for more clearance.
Remove wheel well shroud.
I had a ground strap connected to the back of the engine, 15mm bolt. I used the flex head ratchet wrench to reach this bolt from the top of the engine and removed it. I later re-installed the strap to the hole located between plugs 5 & 7.
I then very patiently reached in through the cracks of hell between the rear of the engine and the firewall and threaded the top bolt first. I taped a magnet to my palm so when I dropped the bolt from my finger tips it didn't fall all the way to the ground. Don't tighten too much as you need the bracket to be able to move so you can get the bottom holes lined up for that bolt.
Next I did the same thing with the bottom bolt. This took about 1.5 hours of the total. 1.5 hours trying to get one bolt threaded just enough using my fingertips in an area I couldn't see and could barely reach. I tried going from beneath the car but really didn't want to remove the drive shaft or O2 sensors or anything so I just opened a beer and tried to be patient with it. I did try a socket on a universal joint with a couple extensions and almost got it a couple times, so maybe that way would work for someone.
Once I got both bolts threaded, I used the flex head ratchet from the top of the engine to tighten, then tightened the bolt that does the work applying pressure on the manifold.

That's it. No more Denali sounding like a diesel. I think I might do one more clamp on the drivers side in the middle of the manifold, as that side had the two rear bolt heads off, but will see how much it annoys me. As of right now I haven't had this quiet a truck at startup in a couple years.

I will have to look where you relocated the ground strap. Im surprised you got the bottom bolt from up top. There is no way in hell I could have got that.

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[Rocket Man]

I will have to look where you relocated the ground strap. Im surprised you got the bottom bolt from up top. There is no way in hell I could have got that.

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it took an hour and a half with a magnet taped to his palm! That's dedication!

 

[93blkongreenpro]

it took an hour and a half with a magnet taped to his palm! That's dedication!

It was the point of no return after that top bolt is conquered!

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[Glisella]

It was the point of no return after that top bolt is conquered!

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You're not kidding.

 

[Glisella]

I will have to look where you relocated the ground strap. Im surprised you got the bottom bolt from up top. There is no way in hell I could have got that.

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Here is a pic of the ground strap relocation. If you look at manifold below it you can see I have another bolt where the head came off, so that is the location I might order another clamp for.

 

[Glisella]

Ok so I ordered the third clamp and installed it, it is a single one and just has a bolt that goes into the hole above the manifold and then another that puts the pressure on the manifold. I now have the result I was looking for. See YouTube videos below. I also tightened the back drivers side clamp bolt to put more pressure on the manifold since installing it and since video #2 was taken. Again went with the Kral brand clamp.

YouTube no longer lets you upload multiple videos and then merge into one so I apologize about the three videos.

All videos were taken while engine was cold, first start-up of the day.

1. This is before any clamps were installed.

2. This is after both driver & rear clamps were installed.

3. This is after the single clamp was installed and I tightened the rear clamp bolt that applies pressure to manifold. Excuse the fan coming on, it's 90+ degrees in NY today.

I don't think video 2 does a good job of showing the difference in noise after the clamps were installed, it was very noticeable, especially once the hood was closed and I was inside the truck.

 

[Rocket Man]

Ok so I ordered the third clamp and installed it, it is a single one and just has a bolt that goes into the hole above the manifold and then another that puts the pressure on the manifold. I now have the result I was looking for. See YouTube videos below. I also tightened the back drivers side clamp bolt to put more pressure on the manifold since installing it and since video #2 was taken. Again went with the Kral brand clamp.

YouTube no longer lets you upload multiple videos and then merge into one so I apologize about the three videos.

All videos were taken while engine was cold, first start-up of the day.

1. This is before any clamps were installed.

2. This is after both driver & rear clamps were installed.

3. This is after the single clamp was installed and I tightened the rear clamp bolt that applies pressure to manifold. Excuse the fan coming on, it's 90+ degrees in NY today.

I don't think video 2 does a good job of showing the difference in noise after the clamps were installed, it was very noticeable, especially once the hood was closed and I was inside the truck.

Do you have more info on the single one? And a picture? Dorman doesn't make one for the center bolts.
Edit: I found them on Kral's website. They have them all covered.

 

[Glisella]

Do you have more info on the single one? And a picture? Dorman doesn't make one for the center bolts.
Edit: I found them on Kral's website. They have them all covered.

I know you said you found them but attached is a pic I took before installing it. I ordered Saturday morning, it shipped Saturday afternoon and was delivered this morning (Tuesday), so I think it was $18 for the part and $5 for shipping which was very fast. When I installed it, it does seem to press against plug #5 a little, so I'll keep an eye on it but I think it'll be all good.

 

[KATfishing]

Edit: I found them on Kral's website. They have them all covered.

I believe Kral is the originator of the clamps. It's great they have them all covered! Kral owner told me that since I now have the rear passenger and rear driver side clamps installed that it will make other bolt heads more unlikely to break off on their own. My result was also fantastic. Completely quiet for quite some time now.

 

[nadthomas]

I just bought my 07 Yukon Denali, and I'm trying to tackle the driver side rear bracket. I have disconnected the front drive shaft, remove the O2 sensor, and unbolted the trans from the rear support mount and lifted it slightly hoping it would pitch the engine forward and give more a little more room. I think I could get the bracket installed with the new bolts in ok, but I'm stuck at the point of removing the grounding strap on the rear of the head. There is not enough remove to get a socket and ratchet on it. There was barely enough room to slip a socket on the bolt head just to size it up. No combo of swivel heads is going to help because there just isn't the room. Any ideas.

I'm thinking my only option left is to pickup a set of crow foot wrenches.

 

[Rocket Man]

R

I just bought my 07 Yukon Denali, and I'm trying to tackle the driver side rear bracket. I have disconnected the front drive shaft, remove the O2 sensor, and unbolted the trans from the rear support mount and lifted it slightly hoping it would pitch the engine forward and give more a little more room. I think I could get the bracket installed with the new bolts in ok, but I'm stuck at the point of removing the grounding strap on the rear of the head. There is not enough remove to get a socket and ratchet on it. There was barely enough room to slip a socket on the bolt head just to size it up. No combo of swivel heads is going to be cause there just isn't the room. Any ideas.

I'm thinking my only option left is to pickup a set of crow foot wrenches.

Ratcheting wrench?

 

[Glisella]

I just bought my 07 Yukon Denali, and I'm trying to tackle the driver side rear bracket. I have disconnected the front drive shaft, remove the O2 sensor, and unbolted the trans from the rear support mount and lifted it slightly hoping it would pitch the engine forward and give more a little more room. I think I could get the bracket installed with the new bolts in ok, but I'm stuck at the point of removing the grounding strap on the rear of the head. There is not enough remove to get a socket and ratchet on it. There was barely enough room to slip a socket on the bolt head just to size it up. No combo of swivel heads is going to be cause there just isn't the room. Any ideas.

I'm thinking my only option left is to pickup a set of crow foot wrenches.

Check out my post on page 2 of this thread. Get a 15mm flex head ratcheting wrench. Worked for me.

 

[nadthomas]

Ah, that should get the job done quick and simple. You know, I read that post last night before making my own post, but I must have been too tired to process it correctly. I also realize this morning that I have a set of the Craftsman Max Access sockets(pass-through type sockets) that would probably work as well since the ratchet slips around the socket instead of on the end. I have been wanting to buy a set of ratcheting wrenches for a while now, this seems like a good enough excuse. THANKS!

 

[nadthomas]

Got the bolt out for grounding wire last night, initially I was still having no luck with all my new tools. The flexhead ratcheting wrench, crowsfoot, or pass-through socket/wrench. The wire clamp for the grounding strap is so fat that it was getting in the way of getting a tool on the bolt head at a good angle, and then I was still struggling to get leverage without having the tool slip off.

Then I discovered the real trick, lay across the front core support of the truck like you are some bikini model at a photo shoot showing off you backside. This allowed me to easily get my left hand down the back side of the head from the top and my right hand around the backside past the exhaust manifold. It was actually almost comfortable laying and working like this, and I'm not a small guy. It puts your hands in a much better position for working in this area. The pass-through socket/wrench ended up being the best tool to break loose the bolt to the grounding strap. Once I had the bolt out, I was able to get the bracket on and both bolts in from the top in less the 10 minutes. It was easy. The flexhead ratcheting wrenches were really nice for tightening the bracket down.

Bad news for me though, is that it did not fix my exhaust leak. Its reduced slightly, but not fixed. The back 2 bolts are snapped on my exhaust manifold, so I'm going to order the middle bracket from Kral, and hopefully that will help. Although I don't have a lot of hope since my gasket is probably damaged since the previous owner left it like this for almost a year.

 

[93blkongreenpro]

Got the bolt out for grounding wire last night, initially I was still having no luck with all my new tools. The flexhead ratcheting wrench, crowsfoot, or pass-through socket/wrench. The wire clamp for the grounding strap is so fat that it was getting in the way of getting a tool on the bolt head at a good angle, and then I was still struggling to get leverage without having the tool slip off.

Then I discovered the real trick, lay across the front core support of the truck like you are some bikini model at a photo shoot showing off you backside. This allowed me to easily get my left hand down the back side of the head from the top and my right hand around the backside past the exhaust manifold. It was actually almost comfortable laying and working like this, and I'm not a small guy. It puts your hands in a much better position for working in this area. The pass-through socket/wrench ended up being the best tool to break loose the bolt to the grounding strap. Once I had the bolt out, I was able to get the bracket on and both bolts in from the top in less the 10 minutes. It was easy. The flexhead ratcheting wrenches were really nice for tightening the bracket down.

Bad news for me though, is that it did not fix my exhaust leak. Its reduced slightly, but not fixed. The back 2 bolts are snapped on my exhaust manifold, so I'm going to order the middle bracket from Kral, and hopefully that will help. Although I don't have a lot of hope since my gasket is probably damaged since the previous owner left it like this for almost a year.

10 minutes?!? Took me an 1 just on that 1 top bolt. That lower bolt wasn't bad. Maybe 20 minutes.

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[nadthomas]

That was after spending about 3.5 hours getting the bolt for the grounding strap off. I also still had the back of the transmission lifted to pitch the engine forward. According to the instructions for Kral that should have gained me about a 1/2". Seriously, laying across the core support made a night and day difference. Being able to get both my hands back there and not have my wrist and arm strained at a weird angles made a world of difference, I almost couldn't believe it myself.

Regardless of how effective the clamps are, I still plan to "repair it right way" at some point. So, I'll make a video showing the removal of the clamp.

 

[KATfishing]

That was after spending about 3.5 hours getting the bolt for the grounding strap off. I also still had the back of the transmission lifted to pitch the engine forward. According to the instructions for Kral that should have gained me about a 1/2". Seriously, laying across the core support made a night and day difference. Being able to get both my hands back there and not have my wrist and arm strained at a weird angles made a world of difference, I almost couldn't believe it myself.

Regardless of how effective the clamps are, I still plan to "repair it right way" at some point. So, I'll make a video showing the removal of the clamp.

Would love to see your video. Please let us know how it turned out and what it took to get it right.

 

[bottomline2000]

Just ordered the kral single clamp. I like the idea of supporting the little guy especially if it was their idea. I managed to strip a header bolt when i knew i should have just chased the threads. It seems to be a very slight leak as it comes and goes so I'm confident this clamp will work permanently...great idea..

 

[93blkongreenpro]

Just ordered the kral single clamp. I like the idea of supporting the little guy especially if it was their idea. I managed to strip a header bolt when i knew i should have just chased the threads. It seems to be a very slight leak as it comes and goes so I'm confident this clamp will work permanently...great idea..

Blue loctite the bolt. Mine backed out

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[bottomline2000]

Ordered Superbowl Sunday, got the part and installed in no time today. Antiseize on the bolt going into the head..blue locktite on the pinchbolt...works great and even keeps my spark plug wire off the header. Highly recommend Kral for this fix.

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