Horrible "death wobble" after new wheels/tires?

[wafflecakes13]

The fastes way to check if it's the way the truck is currently set at, switch to a set of stock size or something close, then road test over the same road.

Yup, of course i sold the stockers right before this happened. Smmfh

 

[Steve A]

So I discovered something that may or may not be unrelated on my way home tonight. I think I mentioned earlier that when I slammed on the brakes it seemed to get worse. Without any apparent "wobble" riding fine doin about 40mph I hit the brakes pretty hard and it nosedived towards the passenger side. I tested it a few times with the same result. Maybe the need for the longer sway bar end links? Or shocks? Pretty weird stuff

Nosedived toward the passenger side? Sounds like a brake caliper dragging which would definitely add to the steering troubles.

 

[wafflecakes13]

Can that happen over time? The brake job was done probably a year ago and they've ben great

 

[Steve A]

Check the brake pads, if the pads on one side are noticeably thinner than the other side you could have a caliper not releasing like it should.

 

[aslondon]

Had similar event at high speed on a motorcycle. It turned out to be tire related. Swapped for a different brand and all was well.

I think i'd go to tire shop and have them check the belts and out of roundness.

 

[yates ™]

Your axles being at that angle shouldn't cause this but I doubt they will last long. If all you did is crank then everything is stretched out, now factor in wider tires and things get amplified from before. The diving is a strange issue though. Double check that nothing is in a bind from cranking. Also if you have access to one, get a go pro and put it in various places under the front and watch your suspension. You will likely see the issue.

 

[wafflecakes13]

I didn't notice the weird nosedive until during the episode where I lost control on the highway, a week and a half or so ago. And I've definitely used the brakes enough to notice it before then. So it's way too early for me to just eyeball the pads to check the caliper.

 

[Steve A]

A caliper piston can stick at any time, even though it may not be likely. On older single piston calipers the mount bolt sleeves could stick as well, this may not be an issue with the newer dual piston calipers.

 

[wafflecakes13]

Just read a great how-to from 2carpros. Take it for a hard drive and then use a laser temperature gun to check the temps of the rotors. If there is a massive difference then it is a stuck caliper. About to try it now!

 

[wafflecakes13]

Well, the temperatures seemed to be about the same maybe due to the fact that I didn't drive it long enough or something. Still leaning towards that being the cause, which might also explain the highway episodes. Dragging caliper plus heavy wheels/tires...even doing about 50 it feels way more unstable than it used to a few weeks ago. Similar to when I had more play in the steering, but it doesn't feel like the play used to at all.

 

[wafflecakes13]

I guess I'm gonna have to go back to the suspension drawing board. Just jacked up all 4 wheels individually and they spun without a problem.

 

[BeenChevy]

Before you drive anywhere else Double check the cotter pin in your steering nut isn't sheered off and that the nut is on tight. -> usually you'll hear a clunk over bumps when this loosens up but it will be hard to control on the highway. Been there.

+10 on the brakes being (a) problem. Pull calipers and make sure the pads still slide well and that the spring clips are still intact, check the piston seals are not deformed, and clean/re-lube the pins regardless of your temp gun. The stock calipers are notorious for uneven pad and uneven braking due to a sloppy brake job, so make sure you fully depress both pistons when you pull the pads.

You're end links are fine, don't worry about extending them until they're shot. Your CV's look like the boots will tear soon, keep an eye on those as they'll likely be slinging grease soon. I would recommend adding block's to clear the gap between your jounce bumps to help with the suspension. Possible you have a worn out shock playing a factor here too, but a lot of this can be in conjunction.

Did nearly a hundred things to improve my steering and suspension regarding $#!+ handling after cranking for big wheels. PM me maybe we can diagnose over the phone if ya still can't figure it out.

 

[cmc76]

im just throwing an idea out, even though i know it will be less likely. Dodges have had issue with death wobble for a long time due to a track bar used for centering the axle. I honestly havent dont much to my front suspension since buying this tahoe, but is there anything that maintains center on a torsion suspension? when i had rams, it happened allot, and is scary as F&*K

 

[yates ™]

im just throwing an idea out, even though i know it will be less likely. Dodges have had issue with death wobble for a long time due to a track bar used for centering the axle. I honestly havent dont much to my front suspension since buying this tahoe, but is there anything that maintains center on a torsion suspension? when i had rams, it happened allot, and is scary as F&*K

Completely different suspension and needs a steering stabilizer shock or shocks in lifted applications.

 

[BIGFOOTDUDE1]

I have keys turned slightly up, front is about an inch higher than the rear. Brand new 33x12.50s on 22x12s. Ever since i got the new setup on it hasn't been on the highway much. Last week after I had been going 70mph for about 15 mins, the truck basically started steering itself and I could hardly control it. I took it in and all they saw wrong was play in a wheel bearing so I got it replaced. Today on the highway at almost the same location it happened again and I thought I was going to sideswipe a semi. All steering and front suspension components are new. The only thing I can think of is after going so fast for a long enough time the problem gets bad enough that it starts to lose control like that. Needing a steering stabilizer is all I can think of. Each wheel and tire together is about 110 lbs. The old setup was maybe around 60-70. Anyone have some experience with this?

I HAD A FORD F250 THAT DID THAT TO ME. SCARED THE BEJESUS OUTA ME. LOL ENDED UP BEING THE STEERING BOX. ALSO TRY A STEERING STABILIZER WITH THE BIG TIRES....GOOD LUCK.....THE DUDE ABIDES...

 

[BeenChevy]

The bump jounces balance the t.springs along with the key's and hex ends in the front mounts which do wear out. You'd know if you lost a spring but if they Are shot, unbalanced or aren't resting on the lower arms as intended, you'll have much lesser handling and an increase in shock bottoming in the f.e. The s.dampener is a good add on for bump-steer but with your current setup and the issue at hand..

 

[wafflecakes13]

The bump jounces balance the t.springs along with the key's and hex ends in the front mounts which do wear out. You'd know if you lost a spring but if they Are shot, unbalanced or aren't resting on the lower arms as intended, you'll have much lesser handling and an increase in shock bottoming in the f.e. The s.dampener is a good add on for bump-steer but with your current setup and the issue at hand..

I have brand new jounce stops with spacers under them so they actually work. One side is touching the other side is very close to touching.

 

[Chubbs]

You didn't mention having the wheels re-aligned after lifting the suspension.

I just replaced the stock keys with a 2" set and I can see the need for alignment from a mile away, it looks awful. just by appearance I can tell it won't drive or steer a straight path.

Notice the top of the tire sticking out further than the bottom of it resting on the ground. No way you can steer this truck properly.

What type of wear pattern are you getting on your tires?

This thread has provided good suggestions for my specific application as well. I should be investigating longer end-links with new bushings, extended jounce stops or whatever they are, and CV spacers, possibly. Thanks, all

 

[Chubbs]

https://m.summitracing.com/search/part-type/sway-bar-end-links/make/chevrolet/model/tahoe

They're pretty common.

Post some pics of your setup as I am guessing that is one issue of many that are causing your "death wobble".

Ya I can't find any 2-3" extended links either. I see that 1 from Skyjacker for 6" but no happy medium. I used keywords on EBay and came up ZERO

I did gather that the +1" for HD models can be used, from what others have said; I did find that setup.

 

[02_Tahoe]

I have brand new jounce stops with spacers under them so they actually work. One side is touching the other side is very close to touching.

Did you ever fix it? If not check idler arm and pitman arm, and ball joints. Can't believe no one has mentioned these