What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Fosscore

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2014
Posts
10,867
Reaction score
19,754
Filled her up and ran through the touchless wash, followed with the spray wax wipe down. Going to try some of that Lucas Slick Mist soon as well.

Ordered a couple new T10 LEDs for my map lights. One is in disco mode.

IMG_2768.JPG
 

95escahoe

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 2, 2010
Posts
5,162
Reaction score
4,466
Filled her up and ran through the touchless wash, followed with the spray wax wipe down. Going to try some of that Lucas Slick Mist soon as well.

Ordered a couple new T10 LEDs for my map lights. One is in disco mode.

View attachment 77318

Looking good, the Lucas slick mist works great it's all I use for a quick wipe down


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Fosscore

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2014
Posts
10,867
Reaction score
19,754
Looking good, the Lucas slick mist works great it's all I use for a quick wipe down


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thx man. Yeah I mentioned the Lucas Slick Mist and numerous guys gave it thumbs up.

I hadn't heard of it, but the reviews are tops. So will add that as I run down my existing stock.
 

02_Tahoe

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Posts
679
Reaction score
566
Location
Maryland
Working on my peeling and faded clear coat with some spray clear coat I got at advanced auto. First I clean the area then try to sand off as much of the peeling clear coat as I can then spray new clear coat on. It's not perfect and you can still see a bit of the old clear coat but it's a hell of a lot better.
The spot right in front of me is the first spot I sprayed next to a spot I haven't done and it looks so much better
IMG_1076.JPG
 

Fosscore

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2014
Posts
10,867
Reaction score
19,754
You may be correct and I cannot remember that exact point. Yes LCA's are DJM.

Better yet that post and picture is deleted for the above mentioned reason so as to not conflict what you were referring to with Tonyrodz earlier.

Sorry man. Thx for checking that. @Red Rocket
 

TheAutumnWind

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2015
Posts
3,254
Reaction score
1,993
Totally random question why do the jounce stops need to be in contact? I've never understood that one.

torsion bars are linear spring rate. They make them progressive. They are designed to be in contact at ride height, and are part of what sets the proper spring rate in the front.
 

TheAutumnWind

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2015
Posts
3,254
Reaction score
1,993
Now granted, I might be a bit confused, but I was under the assumption that while a motor was running, the power for the car was provided by the alternator , and the battery acted like a capacitor to "smooth" out the electricity and make it safe for delicate components.

Agreed that batteries are fickle, but one would stand to reason that lessening the resistance from the alternator, to the battery, to the car would mean better power transfer, and less loss. Also SHOULD cause the battery to discharge less, since more of the alternator power would be getting through.

That being said, when I replace my battery (which happens about every 5 years) I buy the BIGGEST battery I can get, and get at least a 5 to 7 year warranty. Its worth it to spend 50-80 more dollars to save myself 200 later.

I've got the parts for the "big 3" on order, and plan to do it soon, if nothing else than to just make sure all my connections are good, and eliminate any power sapping corrosion.

I don't, however, know what the "big 5" is..

I've heard of people doing the typical big 3 and then also the starter wire (big 4?) and an additional ground wire. Maybe this is what they are referring to?
 

TheAutumnWind

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2015
Posts
3,254
Reaction score
1,993
Bigger gauge wiring helps with large current draw, if you run high power devices. But it won't fix the problem with your increased discharge warning. The issue isn't a wiring one, its limitation of the type of battery we use... You'd be better off using a battery charger to desulfate the battery and charge it properly. You can't increase the battery charging rate by increasing the battery cable size, the maximum charge rate is a limitation of battery chemistry, type and temperature in exchange for life.

automotive batteries that were designed for high current quick discharge to start a car. We really need a deep discharge battery or marine battery to better handle the constant load. Using a car batttery in a deep discharge role is a recipe for short battery life and a quick reduction in capacity and hence warnings for increased discharge aka low battery.

There is a limit on how fast you can charge a battery as well. The faster the charging the hotter they get, which increases degradation of the battery and evaporation of the electrolytes which also reduces capacity. Basically you can't charge it faster than about 10ahr without degrading capacity and life span. So putting a bigger cable in won't help with charging the battery more quickly as the real charging limit is the battery itself and it's internal,design. The car automatically limits charging voltage and current to optimize battery life. A 3 gauge cable just isn't necessary for optimal battery life.

Car batteries are very poor at handling a deep discharge and are easily damaged (reduced capacity) when discharged below 50% of their capacity which probably happens frequently with the older v8s. They can only handle this kind of discharge a few hundred times (200ish) before they fail.

Batteries are complicated and fickel beasts, and it's no surprise such small batteries are struggling with big power draws and deep discharges and have a short life

while I think you are right about most of that (not an electrical engineer here or anything) I think that you are missing the question.
 

ATIII

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2015
Posts
420
Reaction score
415
Location
Brighton, CO (Denver)
I've heard of people doing the typical big 3 and then also the starter wire (big 4?) and an additional ground wire. Maybe this is what they are referring to?
I think I may have set this 5 shit in motion with a mis type. I meant 4 on the post I commented on.

NERD ALERT:


Sent from the *******, mid-push.
 

ATIII

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2015
Posts
420
Reaction score
415
Location
Brighton, CO (Denver)
You're raised correct? I see you have added a pad on the LCA itself to make up for that? I also see stainless brake hoses and Billstein shock upgrades. Nice.
its lifted 3" in the front, keys cranked to about an 1/8" droop left. Also, I just did the 900 brakes the other day.
b4a97f7c2d064f094e5c51589a74ec81.jpg



Sent from the *******, mid-push.
 

TheAutumnWind

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2015
Posts
3,254
Reaction score
1,993
I think I may have set this 5 shit in motion with a mis type. I meant 4 on the post I commented on.

NERD ALERT:


Sent from the *******, mid-push.

Ah yeah I figured.

Yeah Big 3 mod is beneficial on these trucks even in stock form. The wiring is pretty undersized IMHO, and its an inexpensive modification. For me the big three is nice simply because I am now confident that I will not have any issues with poor grounds for the life of the truck. They usually need to be cleaned up or replaced at this point in their lives anyways, and why would I buy stock replacements when I can make upgraded grounds for less money.

I did a big 4 on my nali I guess. alt -> batt + alt case-> batt - batt - -> frame engine block -> frame

Never got around to the starter but I intended to do so. Plan to on this truck.
 
Last edited:

Rocket Man

Mark
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2014
Posts
26,679
Reaction score
52,949
Location
Oregon
I think I may have set this 5 shit in motion with a mis type. I meant 4 on the post I commented on.

NERD ALERT:


Sent from the *******, mid-push.
For my big 3 I ran a positive from battery to alt, ground from alt to frame and ground from frame to battery. Which one am I missing?
 

Rocket Man

Mark
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2014
Posts
26,679
Reaction score
52,949
Location
Oregon
its lifted 3" in the front, keys cranked to about an 1/8" droop left. Also, I just did the 900 brakes the other day.
b4a97f7c2d064f094e5c51589a74ec81.jpg



Sent from the *******, mid-push.
I love the extra braking the 900 upgrade gave me. Nice work!
 

Forum statistics

Threads
137,764
Posts
1,991,555
Members
102,754
Latest member
canadiandux
Back
Top