HiHoeSilver
Away!
Is there a write up on the big 3? I know it's fairly straight forward but never hurts to ask
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search the forum for "welding wire" and you will find a few big 3 discussions.
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Is there a write up on the big 3? I know it's fairly straight forward but never hurts to ask
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Just pry them out with a screw driver or something similar, lube the new ones and twist them in. You'll have to fight with them a little but they all eventually pop in. BTW, I called the company that made my lowering kit and they said the front bounce stops ride on the lca's. So they're supposed to rest on them with no real gap. Only mentioning because there was a conversation on here about it awhile ago and I don't remember if it was ever resolved.Got these today, how hard are they to swap?![]()
Z71 Jounce Stops
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Yeah we keep telling everybody they need to be in contact and that they're called jounce stops! Tony have you replaced your damn front jounce stops yet? Lol just do it no more excuses!Just pry them out with a screw driver or something similar, lube the new ones and twist them in. You'll have to fight with them a little but they all eventually pop in. BTW, I called the company that made my lowering kit and they said the front bounce stops ride on the lca's. So they're supposed to rest on them with no real gap. Only mentioning because there was a conversation on here about it awhile ago and I don't remember if it was ever resolved.
Because they act as a fulcrum for the torsion bars from what I understand.Totally random question why do the jounce stops need to be in contact? I've never understood that one.
Strange. I was always under the impression that was handled by the lower control armBecause they act as a fulcrum for the torsion bars from what I understand.
I would but that would reveal my rust more and idk if there is anymore rust hiding behind that running board and I don't want to find outAnd the stock running boards!
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Not yet. I haven't had a chance to order another set. Amazon messed it up originally. They sent me the rears instead of the fronts.Yeah we keep telling everybody they need to be in contact and that they're called jounce stops! Tony have you replaced your damn front jounce stops yet? Lol just do it no more excuses!
So what is the big five compared to the big 3?If you're windows go up slow when you try to do more than one at a time or if the lights flicker when you roll the windows up with the door open, the Big 5 upgrade is needed in your rig. It just allows more amps to be drawn for accessories. The windows seem to be the biggest current draws I have.
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So what is the big five compared to the big 3?
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So I have no stereo really upgraded head unit with hid lights and may eventually upgrade the bose amp as I've seen on here. I'm thinking about doing a pretty good size inverter under a seat in the second row. Would the big 3 be something for me to look into doing? Or is it more for big stereos
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Batteries are complicated and fickel beasts, and it's no surprise such small batteries are struggling with big power draws and deep discharges and have a short life
Bigger gauge wiring helps with large current draw, if you run high power devices. But it won't fix the problem with your increased discharge warning. The issue isn't a wiring one, its limitation of the type of battery we use... You'd be better off using a battery charger to desulfate the battery and charge it properly. You can't increase the battery charging rate by increasing the battery cable size, the maximum charge rate is a limitation of battery chemistry, type and temperature in exchange for life.
automotive batteries that were designed for high current quick discharge to start a car. We really need a deep discharge battery or marine battery to better handle the constant load. Using a car batttery in a deep discharge role is a recipe for short battery life and a quick reduction in capacity and hence warnings for increased discharge aka low battery.
There is a limit on how fast you can charge a battery as well. The faster the charging the hotter they get, which increases degradation of the battery and evaporation of the electrolytes which also reduces capacity. Basically you can't charge it faster than about 10ahr without degrading capacity and life span. So putting a bigger cable in won't help with charging the battery more quickly as the real charging limit is the battery itself and it's internal,design. The car automatically limits charging voltage and current to optimize battery life. A 3 gauge cable just isn't necessary for optimal battery life.
Car batteries are very poor at handling a deep discharge and are easily damaged (reduced capacity) when discharged below 50% of their capacity which probably happens frequently with the older v8s. They can only handle this kind of discharge a few hundred times (200ish) before they fail.
Batteries are complicated and fickel beasts, and it's no surprise such small batteries are struggling with big power draws and deep discharges and have a short life