'07 GMC Yukon XL Denali Brakes - 4 wheel kits - Opinions/Experience?

[BSarteSr]

Quick update.....

Got the Platinum Hart kit, installed all the pads & rotors, what I noticed when installing was that the pad retainer clips were a bit dirty and the one on the passenger rear seemed a bit tight, so cleaned each good as I went along also put a dab of CRC brake lube on each of the retainer clip guide points, not too much just enough to make it so the pads moved easily.

After the installation I found the brakes made a bit of noise, nothing serious, but after a week or so and with ~150 miles and making sure I broke them in easily, seems to have settled in nicely, no noise, vibration, or any other issues. Still have to get my wife to assist me with bleeding the brakes (you know OLD SCHOOL, PUMP 'EM UP, HOLD 'EM while I am under each wheel!).

Overall for $218 shipped, seems to be a good kit! I was spending more for the Advance Auto rotors and pads and not really any better performance...

 

[michiganlebnani]

This will be the 3rd set of pads/rotors I am putting on my '07 GMC Yukon XL Denali, generally just a daily driver, split between highway and local roads, I don't brake hard under normal conditions, so no real need for anything extravagant when it comes to the pads/rotors but I do like the ceramic over metallic since they have less dust on the chrome wheels!

I usually shop around for deals between places like Auto Zone, Advance Auto, Rock Auto. In doing so this time I came across some performance kits that have slotted/cross drilled rotors and ceramic pads, really like the PowerStop Z23 Brake Kit (K2068), but also came across some other brands that I have not heard of, would like to get some feedback/opinions. The ones I have seen are easiest to list from the eBay ad's:

PowerStop Z23:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/162323865181?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Nakamoto (Price is very attractive!):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/311680941370?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Platinum Hart:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111208325383?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Feedback/Opinions would be appreciated and if you have any other brands that you would recommends for the type of driving I do, would appreciate it!

I went with the PowerStop Z23 Front and rear ... i am very satisfied.

 

[Brian Wilson]

I have to ask, did you guys break the brakes in properly?

 

[BSarteSr]

Been meaning to post a follow up.....

I have ~1000 miles on the Hart setup, have noticed a noise out of them, not bad, but happens at a very specific situation.

When traveling 40-50 mph and I have to stop for and have appropriate site to see that I need to brake, when I step on the brakes what I would call medium (scale of 1 to 10, a 5 or 6), there is a vibration/noise, very minimal but I know it is there. If I back off the brakes (to a 3-4), this goes away, or if I push a little harder (7 to 8), goes away, only happens when I step on the brakes with a specific pressure and going a certain speed.

Any idea what it is? Is this the issue some guys have said the Hart brake pads create?

BTW, I followed the break in process, so other than the above, am very happy with the Hart kit I bought.

 

[93blkongreenpro]

I need breaks, so i will be ordering replacements soon, hopefully not before it warms up a tad

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[michiganlebnani]

I have to ask, did you guys break the brakes in properly?

yes i followed the break in process.... i have them on for over a year now roughly 15k and i am very satisfied. no noise or any other issues to report.

 

[Brian Wilson]

I would have to say....it's alot of variables. When you induce slots or holes into a rotor, you add math. In addition to the fact that you now have a 'empty space' every several degrees, your pads length becomes a factor. Is the length of the pad enough to counteract the fact that your surface area changes ever several degrees? If not, your braking pressure will change rapidly while braking due to the changing surface area which in turn changes the psi on the pad itself. Also, the angle of the slot or hole plays a huge part in the equation. A heavy angle might induce vibrations because the pad might 'jump' when its edge hits a new plain of surface. But personaly, I know hart rotors are not a problem in this area. Also, everything on earth has its own resonate frequency (Tesla's earthquake machine comes to mind). But when talking about resonance, you have to be open to anti resonance. In a breaking system, perfect harmony resonance in a slotted or drilled rotor would give you the added stopping and cooling effect of a performance rotor while maintaining the smooth and quiet transition of a solid rotor. But there are way too many variables to make perfect harmony in every situation. So every vehicle at any speed with any pad/rotor combination will have a specific 'anti resonance' frequence. This will be pronounced to the driver under a certain series of events based on their specific combination. Weight, pad, rotor, weather, material, brake temp, brake fluid, whatever. In order to eliminate most of thes variables, factory brakes usually use a solid rotor. Eliminating most of the 'noticeable variations' in stopping. And they do a good job. Stock brakes give us a false sense of equilibrium in our system. But for those of us who demand performance brakes, we have to set a combination based on our single type of braking situation or, we have to deal with the drawbacks of a better stopping system in a less than perfect situation (brake noise, dust, pulsing, or even longer stopping distance). In general, we install performance parts to make a stock systems more effective for our intended purpose. But with every "upgrade" there are drawbacks. It's our job as auto enthusiasts to understand the physics that affect our cars and decide whether any 'upgrade' is worth it for us personally.

 

[Brian Wilson]

This is my last brake thread post. Lol. I wish there was a brake sticky already.

 

[BSarteSr]

After having the PowerStop installed for a while now, I am not pleased with the slotted rotors. They make noise when braking at certain speeds which the stock non-slotted don't have. When I need brakes again, going to stay with the stock style rotors.

 

[jmm121783]

My rears are slotted forward.

The fronts, rearward

Never paid attention.

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You put the fronts on backwards, the slot is supposed to go "against the grain" of the pad so the rears are right the fronts are backwards.

 

[93blkongreenpro]

You put the fronts on backwards, the slot is supposed to go "against the grain" of the pad so the rears are right the fronts are backwards.

On 90% of the el cheap-o's, the vent vains are straight like standard rotors and not angled, so it doesnt matter which direction they go.


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[petethepug]

Slotted / drilled rotors absolutely have a specific orientation to each side of the vehicle. The pattern is calculated to pull air, gas, heat, brake dust through the cavity / vent from the outside and expel it from the interior of the disc regardless of directional or unidirectional vanes.

The correct orientation can be verified by looking at the top half of the disc. The slot / drilling should start at the inside diameter of the disc and point to the back of the vehicle until it reaches the outer diameter of the disc. Any other orientation is no bueno.

Brake noises occur if the supplied hi temp grease is not used on the mating surfaces of the brake piston to pad and on the ears of the pads touching the callipers. Some pads have a rubberised backing that stops the vibration / noise all by itself. Usually, when there’s no backing or rubber pad, they make noise.

Nice to see this post revived.


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[thompsoj22]

go the $240 route, unless your running your 6k lb denali around willow springs raceway you arent going to see the performance "window" that often. I just dont get high performance marketing, As stated this isnt your first rodeo, So simply install quality parts and save the "HP cash" for adding reliability to some other area on the vahicle. as far as directional, if it's machined to run CW than you should not run it CCW.

 

[jmm121783]

After a little bit of talking around I went with the straight blanks, no slots, no drills, no dimples. Ever since the cheapo Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors came out, I have been one to bite. I always thought it could extend brake life and help with fade and what not so I put them on every car I've owner recently. I do believe they cool better but I also believe you need to go with a good NAME BRAND. The common phrase " You get what you pay for..." always comes to mind when talking anything "aftermarket". With that in mind, I wanted a good brand name, without the gimmicks of holes and slots that would perform on the heaviest vehicle I've owned....and to be totally honest, I would've loved to find a pair of the Power Stop rotors that were Slotted only, no cross drilling because I feel that would be very beneficial not only towards the longevity but also the constants of daily driving!

Anyone have any feedback on this particular kit for our trucks?

I should be able to offer my two cents here shortly on the "Blanks" kit from PowerStop w/ their Ceramic Pads.

 

[asand]

I had the power stop parts from ebayer brakemotive on my Camaro and loved them. Direction of slots and holes really doesn't matter, purely aesthetic. Direction of cooling vanes is important IF they are directional. Brakemotive marks theirs left and right for ease of mind but it still doesn't make a difference.

The only real difference is the direction of the slots will force the pads away or towards the axis, but not a perceptible amount.