What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[mals]

You should try the recirc door actuator if you think that ones hard. It's designed to remove the entire dash to replace it.

I'll have to take your word for it, and hope I never have to find out for myself.

 

[Rocket Man]

I'll have to take your word for it, and hope I never have to find out for myself.

No doubt! I tried to avoid it but it kept randomly making an extremely loud screeching noise even though I never switched it over to recirculate. I guess it just does it on its own.

 

[bottomline2000]

Those clamps look and feel heavy duty to me. Got some weight to them. They didn't cheap out on quality with these Imo.

Yeah I'd like to hear how they work. I have the clamps with the two bolts and I can't get them to seal no matter what I do. Considered the clamps you have or just having a shop weld it up..

Neither can I!! Can't wait to start the swap. I'm still gathering parts.

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[Tonyrodz]

Yeah I'd like to hear how they work. I have the clamps with the two bolts and I can't get them to seal no matter what I do. Considered the clamps you have or just having a shop weld it up..



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Soon. I'm thinking it won't happen before Christmas.
Note:Just got a lead on an HD Hood!

 

[DDenali]

Soon. I'm thinking it won't happen before Christmas.
Note:Just got a lead on an HD Hood! View attachment 70811

I really want a Hd hood for my denali


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[Knope]

Why the spring swap? What that do for ride height?

It was rough with the lowering kit. LOVE how it rides now with MOOG 81071 and Bilstein 4600 shocks. Rear now sits at 36-3/4 which is just a tad higher than I'd like, but I'm hoping it'll settle a bit over the next 500 miles.

 

[brian.roberts.1293]

Just search E-bay for "Chevy torsion keys lift"


Oh look.... I already did it!
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=chevy+torsion+keys+lift&_sop=15



and..... keys alone = http://www.ebay.com/itm/Torsion-Key-Lift-Kit-1999-2006-GMC-Sierra-Chevy-Silverado-1500-4x4-key-03-6-lug-/371296587897?fits=Make:Chevrolet&hash=item5673005079:g:Hv8AAOSweW5VHTM5&vxp=mtr

keys and 2" rear spacers, and shock extenders for the rear = http://www.ebay.com/itm/99-06-GMC-Chevy-1-3-Front-2-Rear-Lift-Torsion-Keys-Shock-Extenders-Spacers-/381524777984?fits=Make:Chevrolet&hash=item58d4a61c00:g:uLIAAOSwX~dWnvJn&vxp=mtr

and.... make sure you get the tool!!! http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-Chevy-To...:g:3EsAAOSwXeJYLfHr&item=272000714104&vxp=mtr


Just installing keys to level alone, you should be able to clear 285/75/16's or 285/70/17's on the stock wheels with no problems. Hell, you don't even need to replace the keys, just crank your stock keys up far enough to clear (maybe 1- 1 1/2"), and get an alignment.

I cranked mine to level but they are about maxed out. I was wondering if the raised ones would make it ride better?

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[Fosscore]

Soon. I'm thinking it won't happen before Christmas.
Note:Just got a lead on an HD Hood! View attachment 70811

 

[Countryboy07]

Soon. I'm thinking it won't happen before Christmas.
Note:Just got a lead on an HD Hood! View attachment 70811

Good deal! I've got one sitting in the garage just waiting to modified to fit. Can't find anyone that's willing to do it.

 

[Fosscore]

Good deal! I've got one sitting in the garage just waiting to modified to fit. Can't find anyone that's willing to do it.

This is unaccepatable!!! lol Gotta be somebody who is brave enough to fab it up somewhere? Look forward to this when it does happen. That mean stance will be badass for sure.

 

[DDenali]

Good deal! I've got one sitting in the garage just waiting to modified to fit. Can't find anyone that's willing to do it.

Omg patience is a virtue bud don't want to hack up a good hood but I'm still jealous lol


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[05Single]

Good deal! I've got one sitting in the garage just waiting to modified to fit. Can't find anyone that's willing to do it.

Everytime I need some custom fab work I check local fb pages. ie lowered trucks of texas, noerthwest mini truckin page, obviously look wherever you're located at lol.
Usually the lowered scene has more fab work than the lifted. just my experience. more shaved lights, body panels, bumpers, frame and suspension work.

 

[MadDogDelpho]

I just finished bypassing my rear audio controls for my Tahoe, so I don't have to have the control unit sitting on the front floorboar. And tomorrow I'm gonna try to throw in my front speakers and sub from Amazon.

 

[Red_Raider]

Purchased a set of 8 injectors, and a new fuel pressure regulator. Hopefully the cel will go off now, and the excessively long start on cold mornings will also go away.


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[humblebeast07]

Well, after the cold front last weak and it getting into the 30's I couldnt figure out why the heater wasnt working in the front or back, and I had forgot about the low coolant warning light being on...forever(but never gets hot, and takes no more than 3/4 gallon to fill up)...finally thought about topping off the coolant and investigating the coolant loss....waterpump/ coolant hoses are dry, oil is clean and not frothy, and after top off no signs of leaky reservoir....So im thinking reservoir cap??? So I screwed it on extra tight and have put on about 150 miles in the last week and seems to be still holding fine.....

After fixing the front heater issue, and it not fixing the rear heat, I tore into the rear a/c compartment to check the blend door actuator.....Like I though, it wanst moving front cool to heat...soo I removed the actuator and opened it up and saw the gears looked fine, so I put 12v the the contacts on the motor and it worked both ways by switching polarity perfectly.....So made my deduction to the controller being the issue (considering both front and rear a/c switches made no difference) but instead of just replacing the controller, I reset the a/c system via removing fuses and cycling ignition (will provide exact directions if interested)...ended up being nice to fix 2 issues on the same day and not need to spend any money...

Now for the more exciting stuff

In lieu of my overwhelming satisfaction with my gmt 800 vehicles and the fact that this is my wifes daily, and we are taking it on about a 2500 mile trip in Mar-Apr so time for some much needed tlc......On black friday I placed a order for NEW LEATHER!! for my front seats color smoke looks to be closest match for oem at leastherseats.com, new seat heaters top and bottom for both seats and a new bottom "dura foam" cushion from the seat shop, OEM replacement upper cushion( that has been discontinued, not sure how long) from ebay, and last but not least NEW CARPET!! from stockinteriors.com in ebony ( looks to be a close match to the dark 2 tone color on the top of the dash and door panel inserts....

I plan on gutting the interior and cleaning it up, finding a decent quality/price sound deadener, and possibly replacing some door seals to quieten the road noise....
And by no means am I endorsing any of these companies, all I will say is I purchased each product from the cheapest company I knew about.

Any pointers are appreciated on the seats/carpet/sound deadening

 

[Merc1973]

Well, after the cold front last weak and it getting into the 30's I couldnt figure out why the heater wasnt working in the front or back, and I had forgot about the low coolant warning light being on...forever(but never gets hot, and takes no more than 3/4 gallon to fill up)...finally thought about topping off the coolant and investigating the coolant loss....waterpump/ coolant hoses are dry, oil is clean and not frothy, and after top off no signs of leaky reservoir....So im thinking reservoir cap??? So I screwed it on extra tight and have put on about 150 miles in the last week and seems to be still holding fine.....

After fixing the front heater issue, and it not fixing the rear heat, I tore into the rear a/c compartment to check the blend door actuator.....Like I though, it wanst moving front cool to heat...soo I removed the actuator and opened it up and saw the gears looked fine, so I put 12v the the contacts on the motor and it worked both ways by switching polarity perfectly.....So made my deduction to the controller being the issue (considering both front and rear a/c switches made no difference) but instead of just replacing the controller, I reset the a/c system via removing fuses and cycling ignition (will provide exact directions if interested)...ended up being nice to fix 2 issues on the same day and not need to spend any money...

Now for the more exciting stuff

In lieu of my overwhelming satisfaction with my gmt 800 vehicles and the fact that this is my wifes daily, and we are taking it on about a 2500 mile trip in Mar-Apr so time for some much needed tlc......On black friday I placed a order for NEW LEATHER!! for my front seats color smoke looks to be closest match for oem at leastherseats.com, new seat heaters top and bottom for both seats and a new bottom "dura foam" cushion from the seat shop, OEM replacement upper cushion( that has been discontinued, not sure how long) from ebay, and last but not least NEW CARPET!! from stockinteriors.com in ebony ( looks to be a close match to the dark 2 tone color on the top of the dash and door panel inserts....

I plan on gutting the interior and cleaning it up, finding a decent quality/price sound deadener, and possibly replacing some door seals to quieten the road noise....
And by no means am I endorsing any of these companies, all I will say is I purchased each product from the cheapest company I knew about.

Any pointers are appreciated on the seats/carpet/sound deadening

I would love to know those instructions for resetting HVAC module. Please.

 

[Rocket Man]

I would love to know those instructions for resetting HVAC module. Please.

I posted a how-to in the tech section. http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/recalibrating-hvac.81057/

 

[humblebeast07]

The topic of how to perform the actuator recalibration procedure on Chevrolet , GMC and Cadillac Trucks and SUVs has become an ever increasing topic of discussion.

For manual systems it does not matter where the a/c controls are set but if you feel the need to do something, turn the blower switch on (I prefer speed 3) and set the temperature sliders about .5″ to .75″ from full cold.

For auto systems, press the auto button, with the key on.

Turn the ignition off.

Remove the HVAC/ECAS , 10 amp fuse in the underhood fuse box* or disconnect the battery for one minute.

*Fuse locations can vary from year to year and between different models. Hopefully I will be able to build a list for this.

Install the HVAC fuse or reconnect the battery.

Start the engine. On systems with auto a/c controls the controls will default to 74 degrees F when the ignition is turned back on.

DO NOT TOUCH the a/c controls.

Let the engine run for 1-2 minutes.
Turn the ignition off for at least 10 seconds but no more than 30 seconds.
Restart the engine and then test the a/c controls.





I aslo pulled the larger hvac fuse, in the same fuse box (one of the larger ones at the top).....first time I did it I dont think it fixed the issue...after i took the actuator off and made sure it worked i did it again and it was working

 

[05alive]

Billet and clear corners. Needs a new grille shell because this one is cracked. I'll pull it off, sand it and paint it soon, and I'll put an OEM one back one whenever I sell it.

 

[Countryboy07]

When my wife decided to hit that post a couple months ago, she messed up one of the taillights as well. Took it as an opportunity to upgrade. They are not LED, but look good to me!