What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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mattbta

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Put on Energy Suspension poly front sway bar bushings and end links. Original sway bushings looked fine, but end links were near end of life. Noticeable improvement -- less body roll on turns.

Cleaned the MAF too and let it do an idle relearn.
 

David Paul

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  • Y IMG_0149.JPG Put on my new exhust today. I was concerned that the Sport series would be too loud but it's perfect. So this completes my Stage 1. Intake, Efans, BB tune and exhust. I purchased the AutoCal from BB, so I'll get the updated tune and be good to go.
 

Bombsquad85

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Put on Energy Suspension poly front sway bar bushings and end links. Original sway bushings looked fine, but end links were near end of life. Noticeable improvement -- less body roll on turns.

Cleaned the MAF too and let it do an idle relearn.

Whered you get them from? I saw some energy suspension away bar endlinks at AutoZone but I'm not sure if they were the right ones
 

mattbta

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Whered you get them from? I saw some energy suspension away bar endlinks at AutoZone but I'm not sure if they were the right ones
Got mine on Amazon because I wanted them same day. A few dollars more than other vendors. I'm an 04 2wd, so the 35214 kit works for my stock 32mm front sway.
 

mdnitedrftr

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I plasti-dipped the recess in my center console so my phone wouldn't go launching off when I hit the brakes. Its not as grippy as I thought it would be, but its enough to do the job. I like the looks of it better too.
 

Rocket Man

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Whered you get them from? I saw some energy suspension away bar endlinks at AutoZone but I'm not sure if they were the right ones
You can go to Energy Suspensions website and look at a .PDF of their catalog to get the right part number, then look for the parts on Google, Amazon or EBay. Im running a DJM front sway bar and lowered and I was able to figure out how to measure for the correct length, get the p/n, and order them on EBay.
 

mmeachem

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I plasti-dipped the recess in my center console so my phone wouldn't go launching off when I hit the brakes. Its not as grippy as I thought it would be, but its enough to do the job. I like the looks of it better too.
Any pics? I'd like to see the outcome.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Martinjmpr

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Finally got my lift done! I decided to go with a basic set of keys up front, Z71 springs in the rear rather than a spacer (my Suburban is an LT so the Z71s are taller), Bilstien 5100's all around and just to be on the safe side, new sway bar end links up front.

A friend from another board (Expedition Portal) came over on the weekend of 9/24 to help me install the kit. We got the rear end done in less than 2 hours, moved on to the front. Got the shocks and sway bar ends but could NOT get the T-bar keys out no matter what we did! I should point out my truck spent its first 8 years in Wisconsin and has some pretty significant surface rust. Apparently the keys were rusted to the bars.

So, I threw in the towel and took it to a shop. They ended up putting it on the lift and using an air hammer (and lots of PB blaster) and finally got them loose. Since there was so much rust I went ahead and replaced the bolts and the nuts (retaining plate) for the T-bar keys as well.

I took measurements before and after. Before measurements were about 35" at the front fenders, 36.5" at the back and 13.5" at the bottom of the trailer hitch.

After measurements were 37" front, 38" rear and almost 15" at the hitch.

Before:

before%2001_zpsgjfsntdy.jpg


After:

after%2003_zpsksvibwyq.jpg


I haven't got the alignment yet, I want to make sure the keys are exactly where I want them before I do that. Now that my lift is on I can consider tires. I had been thinking about 285/75/16's (I have a set of 16" "cyclone" wheels) but with as much lift as I have now I'm considering maybe even 295's.
 

Countryboy07

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Looks good @Martinjmpr. What 16" wheels do you have? If your stock 17's are in good shape, I'd throw a set of 285/70/17's on it and call it a day. Maybe a set of 1.5" or 1.75" wheel spacers to push the tires/wheels out a bit since cranking the keys sucks the front tires in.
 

Martinjmpr

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Looks good @Martinjmpr. What 16" wheels do you have? If your stock 17's are in good shape, I'd throw a set of 285/70/17's on it and call it a day. Maybe a set of 1.5" or 1.75" wheel spacers to push the tires/wheels out a bit since cranking the keys sucks the front tires in.

My 17's are crap. They've got pretty bad corrosion, I'm assuming yet another relic from its years in Wisconsin:

2016-08-15%2010.18.09_zps0d5vlmic.jpg


My 16's are actually the stock Tahoe/Suburban 16" "cyclone" or "hurricane" wheels (I think that's what people call them?):

2016-07-30%2016.27.44_zpskx5cnbr7.jpg


It's a very "dated" design but they're in good shape (no corrosion like my 17's) and also going with 16's will save me about $200 on a set of 4. I also like a bigger sidewall so I prefer 16's to 17's.
 

Tonyrodz

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You could always plastidip them. I had clear coat issues with my wheels, those hurricane style .Looks better Imo.
WP_20160603_001.jpg
then did my Denali's, also had clear coat issues.
IMAG0378.jpg
 

Countryboy07

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Those are the wheels I thought you were talking about. Not a terrible wheel at all. If your wanting the height of 285, but more wide... Look into the 305/70's. I've got a set on my GMT400 on stock steel wheels and I personally think they are great.

image.jpeg
 

06LTZ

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Replaced spark plugs and wires over the weekend. Installed NGK 7397 and Taylor Thundervolt 50s. The Taylor wires are thick, lots of silicone and they seem very well made. I have to say, getting the old plug wires off the spark plugs was the hardest part, they were stubborn.

Stock wire on the left, Taylor Thundervolt 50 on the right.

IMG_1111.jpg
 
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SweYukon

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Did the annual replacement of the taillights.
p.jpg
Must install the original ones for the annual vehicle inspection. It's a big no-no not having amber turn signals here. Cops usally doesn't care or has no idea on the rules regarding lights.
 

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