What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

95escahoe

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 2, 2010
Posts
5,155
Reaction score
4,453
Yea that's one chance I'll never take too. My volume buttons are acting up and I've seen the videos and read the posts , it's a nightmare to change.
$80 ain't bad tho.

Only took an hr, got the Dorman buttons all four were like $55 I think


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Rocket Man

Mark
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2014
Posts
25,967
Reaction score
50,677
Location
Oregon
Funny you ask that lol, well watched the video on YouTube looked easy so popped them all out the bottom right one part of the harness came off and between my big hands, tight spot and not to much slack in the wires said **** it and brought it to the shop $80 had it all done, they pulled the airbag which is the way to do it just didn't want to chance it going off


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I pulled the steering wheel and airbag twice on my '02 and worked on mine, it was easy. Just disconnect the battery first and follow instructions for disconnecting the airbag. Local O'Reilley's loaned the puller for free. There's nothing to be scared of.
 

AA1PR

Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2014
Posts
35
Reaction score
2
...participated with a few ham radio friends this weekend for the arrl sept vhf contest

our callsign was WW1VT, sadly the bands were in terrible shape

">


I felt honored as they decided to use my rig & its backdrop as our parting group photo

rare-vhf-contest_orig%202.jpg

Did anyone else participate and if so how did you fair? I hope conditions were better in other parts of the country

than again theres next year

73
 

Fosscore

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2014
Posts
10,472
Reaction score
18,075
Took care of a couple maintenance items.

Back in June, I was having issues with my driver's side caliper. The truck had been aligned and the tires were Road Force balanced and inflated to 40psi. During average to hard braking, the truck pulled hard to the right. On two separate occasions the caliper locked up and heated that side up super hot, making the truck hard to accelerate obviously. Took it into my buddy's shop, where he found that the brake line coming down to the caliper seemed to be getting pinched thus reducing the brake fluid flow to only the driver's side, thus causing the pull to the passenger side and the caliper locking up on the driver's side. He replaced the front brake lines and back in business braking like it is supposed to be.

img_9871-jpg.66568



A few days after I got the brake lines sorted, the Service Air Bag light came on the DIC. No time to deal with it before the summer, so I ordered the Dorman replacement via AmazonPrime and had it waiting for me. New sensor on the left and old OEM sensor on the right.

The replacement was pretty straight forward. I took extra steps and disconnected the battery and pulled the Airbag fuse just to be sure. I did not have the code pulled first to see which side was bad, so I had a 50/50 shot and started with the driver's side. Nope. Swapped out the passenger side and the light went off. Plugged the OEM sensor on the driver's side back in and replaced the passenger side sensor. The hardest part of the swap was getting your hands up behind the bumper to get the 10mm wrench on the bolt as a socket driver will get stuck on the frame once you back the screw out. I did watch a couple YouTube videos to give me a heads up first as to the location and what was involved. The front impact sensors were $70 shipped via Amazon Prime. I bought two just in case both sides were bad, but will be returning the spare for credit.

fullsizerender-3-jpg.66569



My rear lift gate handle pins popped out, basically rendering the lift gate handle useless, as it had come apart from the insert that is bolted to the lift gate. I had the OEM one, but it is the black textured plastic. I tried to get the pins back in place, but the space is so tight and I feel that the crimped end of the pin may have wallowed out the plastic of the handle, so I decided to heavy duty zip tie the pieces together. All was working good. I ensured the cable was tight and routed properly before replacing the interior trim pieces and closed the door.

I tried the door again a few days later and neither the glass nor lift gate would open. Hmmm..no time to deal with it. So I researched on YouTube and found this video on how to open the door from the inside of the truck with the trim pieces in place, in case your motor stops working or as in my case, the handle and push button both were not working.


At about 1:36 he shows you the exact point where to lift the top plastic piece and slide your fingers in to slide the door latch and open the lift gate. Pretty much dead center between the top and bottom trim pieces in the middle of the door. Popped open the lift gate and I pulled the trim pieces off and everything was intact. I'm thinking I may have pushed the trim pieces in too far in the center which may have pushed against the lock mechanism which would not allow the handle or push button to pull the cable far enough against the bound plastic to unlock it completely. Tested it numerous times and all is working as it should be.

img_9872-jpg.66584
img_9873-jpg.66585
img_9876-jpg.66583
 

treehan77

TYF Fiend
Joined
Feb 1, 2015
Posts
1,396
Reaction score
1,141
Location
Crestview, FL
I had the same rear hatch pin fell out problem. Was able to get them stuck back in with a little right angle pick tool. Then I used rubber cement on both ends to keep it from falling back out.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
129,345
Posts
1,814,334
Members
92,481
Latest member
preinternet
Top