Self alignment

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1992rs

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my :2cents:

If you go down that route you will need to invest in some tools like:
- http://www.longacreracing.com/products.aspx?itemid=2446&pagetitle=Caster+Camber+Alignment
- http://www.longacreracing.com/products.aspx?itemid=2445&pagetitle=Toe+Measurement+Tools
- https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/alignment-wheel-stand-slip-plates

As you can see the tools can easily add up to the cost of multiple alignments. People have made their own slip plates and toe bars very cheaply though. Good tools and/or high dollar alignment machines doesn't mean shit if the operator doesn't have the skills or knowledge to do so. A lot of race teams use the "old school" string method simply because they dont have the space or want to transport an alignment machine when they can do it with small tools and have the same outcome, because they know what they're doing.

Full disclosure, I've never tried to do my own alignment, but I want to and I fully intend to when I buy my own house and have the space for it. Several times, from different businesses, Ive received "good" alignments, only to find out its because the computer "says so" and my steering wheel is still a good degree off.

I dont want to sway you either way. The major point I'm trying to make is Skills > Tools, and that you need to really know how the steering system works and how each adjustment can alter the overall feel of the vehicle and to have the patience to get it right. Most likely you will be redoing your alignment a few times before its good. Eventually, down the road it will save you some money, but not upfront. The biggest appeal of DIY'ing alignments for me is when you start adding a bunch of mods you'll be able to know how to do it and also you can tailor it your driving style. I know with my Third gen F-body almost all average shops wont align it because they say my alignment specs are not possible, my suspension is too modded for them to work on it, or they say it will drive like ass, so I'm stuck with high dollar performance/race shops that are willing do it.

If you still want to do it, read up, heres an article from the people who make our aftermarket suspension. http://djmsuspension.com/alignment-is-important/

and a bonus of how Ferrari F1 does their alignments

Keep us updated if you decide to tackle it!

s1_1.jpg
 

SnowDrifter

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^^Good links, though worth mentioning those tools will also require a good bit of math to be able to do things like setting caster effectively and will be more or less a guess and check system for doing so. It won't be a quick process as alignment specs given for passenger vehicles are done with the weight on the wheels, not in the air.

Just a consideration. It'll be an afternoon project
 

SnowDrifter

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Also since we're on alignment, some interesting info:

Front toe on it's own will not cause a pull. Provided your steering components are in good condition and you've ruled out things like brake calipers and inflation pressure, a pull will be caused by one of two things: A difference in caster, or a difference in camber. I'm a little fuzzy on details as it's been a while, but IIRC >.3 degree difference in caster or >.5 degree in camber will cause a noticeable pull as a rule of thumb. The vehicle will pull towards the side with more positive camber, or the side with more negative caster.

A more positive caster increases the car's "go straight" drivability with a stronger return to center. More negative will be better for turning. Too far negative and you risk things like death wobble. Ever seen the shopping cart with a wobbly wheel? Imagine that on your car.

Some manufacturers, like ours, leverage this property and give different caster specs per side of the vehicle to create a pull and correct for things like road crown - the slight slope in the road to allow for water drainage. If you live in an area that has more or less road crown than anticipated, you can adjust your caster to alleviate this issue. Caster adjustments are the preferred way to adjust the pull as they won't have an impact on tire wear like camber will. Though if you had another vehicle where you couldn't get one or the other in spec, or there was no adjustment for it, you can use these properties to allow the vehicle to track straight despite the angles being out of spec
 

06Escalade

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Regarding the old school (string?) approach. From what i read, this method is not as accurate on independent suspensions. So for those of us with solid axles, this may work?
 
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05Single

05Single

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Yea um I'll take it to the shop lol. I replaced the tie rod on my sister's car and she doesn't have much money atm for an alignment. If it was my tahoe I would take it to the shop no questions asked. I just figure I might be able to do a decent job diy for her and save her a buck.

It was videos like this that had me wondering

Old school string way.
 

Ronzxcvb

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after replacing a tie rod you need to adjust toe
so if done properly I think you would be ok doing it yourself
I would also take tire condition into consideration
 

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