OilfieldTrash78
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So, even if I run the standard 4x4 Yukon with air ride, then the only way to lift it is with shock extenders, right?
Lifting a '17 Denali
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So, even if I run the standard 4x4 Yukon with air ride, then the only way to lift it is with shock extenders, right?
01Konvict
Boats n Hoes
Yup shock extenders for all magnetic ride air shock Yukon’s. Not a big deal unless wheeling off road all day. Go for a 4” with resistors and be happy. It will be my next Denali in a few years.
OilfieldTrash78
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Ok, so if I want a true lift, then I need to go with something without magnetic ride or air ride. So my next question then is this: I was going to go with a regular Yukon 4x4 with the trailering package so I could get the steeper gears, and the 2 speed transfer case. Are those things that I will benefit from? Or just go with a regular 4x4 w/o the trailering package. This will be my first lifted vehicle, so I really appreciate all the info
01Konvict
Boats n Hoes
You can do a true lift on anything even with auto ride. Just depends if you want to keep it or not. If not then add resistors and fix ride height rods so they don’t move. Tricks computer and you get all the plus items of Denali with a lift.
OilfieldTrash78
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I just wish I understood how to do all that. Mechanically, I got it, but when I comes to all that other stuff, I don’t know. I just want a lifted SUV that won’t give me any issues.
OilfieldTrash78
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How hard is it to remove?
01Konvict
Boats n Hoes
Easy. Remove shocks and connect the resistor to the two wires. You can leave the compressor hooked up and remove the ride height rods. Zip tie the rods stationary to the fender liner. If you do want full shock travel then order some Fox or King coilovers for the needed length and rears to match.
Other option is keep the auto ride. Get a 2” lower and 2” upper spacer for front. Rear can use the rough country 3.5” kit shock extender. Get some ride height rod spacers from FTS. Fabtech makes a rear 4” kit for auto ride but those shock brackets are expensive to buy separately! Then all of it will bolt up and ride like stock on the 4” BDS kit.
All depends on how much you want to spend to do it. I would still get a Denali though because of 6.2 and features. I would do 22x10 or x12 billets on 33 toyo at 2 or ridge grapplers.
No one has figured out the resistors for the 15+ denali suspension yet though.
The 14 and older vehicles yes. But unless you have found the right resistors, there isn’t anythingnout yet.
The 25 ohm or what ever threw codes after a few miles and set a speed limiter at 80 mph.
The 14 and older vehicles yes. But unless you have found the right resistors, there isn’t anythingnout yet.
The 25 ohm or what ever threw codes after a few miles and set a speed limiter at 80 mph.
01Konvict
Boats n Hoes
Try measuring the wires while its connected to the system. You should be able to measure any voltage. Then measure resistance on the shocks themselves. This will help determine the correct resistor to apply on each shock. Again worst case to lift 4" is keep the stock stuff on with extensions until some more research is done to delete it.
No one hasn’t been able to do this. I have a feeling it is a varying system unlike the earlier system.
You are telling people to go out and buy suspension set ups and then that a quick resistor is all they need.
You need to stop saying this because it is not true.
Some person is going to read your posts,
Spend a crap ton of money on a lift for a non Denali and end up with a truck that has the speed limiter set, traction control limited and the very least issue, a warning light on the dash.
You are telling people to go out and buy suspension set ups and then that a quick resistor is all they need.
You need to stop saying this because it is not true.
Some person is going to read your posts,
Spend a crap ton of money on a lift for a non Denali and end up with a truck that has the speed limiter set, traction control limited and the very least issue, a warning light on the dash.
