E fans and towing??

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AtomicHoe094

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Great picts!! Single pass, 2 core isnt bad. Was your stock a single pass, 1 core?

When I go electric fan I am going with this one....highest CFM I have found so that should help with towing..plus it states its good for towing under 18,000 combined GVW and I think I am only at 12-13,000 total when I tow. I will change out the alternator at that time for a 140amp and a "Yellow" top battery (deep cycle)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-280/

those are the fans that i run right now. love em. theres a Tech Article i made in the tech section, find that and itll help you out, tons a pictures as well
 
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atis

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99Yuk,

Good call on the thermostate and distributor ring!! Block heater I dont need as it never goes below 20*F here. Heads are included.

Where can I get the improved spider?
 

96ProCompTahoe

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last i read amazon was the cheapest place to pick up the new spider assembly. someone correct me if i wrong.
 

99Yuk

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99Yuk,

Good call on the thermostate and distributor ring!! Block heater I dont need as it never goes below 20*F here. Heads are included.

Where can I get the improved spider?

No worries. That's just stuff I did when I got my motor. Actually, I was just thinking good call on your part on the motor mounts. I didn't do mine, and I was thinking how easy and smart and cheap it would have been to do them when there was no motor. lol...

Oh, and I forgot. The water hose that comes from the heater core and goes into the top of the intake is held by a stupid little clip. Replace that clip! Odds are it will get damaged during the swap and it will break off within 100kms of driving and spew anti-freeze all over the engine bay. Ask me how I know.


The cheapest place to buy the MPFI upgrade in the US that I have found is HERE. A few months ago we talked at length about it HERE.
EDIT: Dope! 96ProCompTahoe beat me to it.
 
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atis

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Ya, I have experience in the 'stupid" department...on my Stang I upgraded to an e-fan with UD's...killed the battery the first time I sat in traffic in Cali (when I lived there)...over drive alt pulley and larger Alt fixed the issue. I knew others had the same problem but went with the "it wont happen to me" attitude...and Murphey got me.

Ok, just ordered the spider...funny. Last April at SEFF i was throwing the "Random misfire all cyclinder" code and had to limp the truck and trailer home. I noticed I was getting air in the coolant and had smoke so I just assumed it was the head gaskets...guess the spider went and with it the head gaskets followed. This would also explain the hard starts and FP dropping.
 
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willxfs

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A couple years back I had hard starts. Brought it to the dealership, they wanted to upgrade the spider in my 98 tahoe. They wanted something like 750 bucks. I passed, did some internet research and just ended up changing the fuel pressure regulator. Its right in there next to the spider. Everything worked great after that. Hopefully your new spider will come with a new fuel pressure regulator. Just looked at a picture, look like it does. When I get the new motor, I will definitely upgrade to the new spider assembly.

So how did everything turn out. I debating a rebuild of my 350 or buying something like you did. I have 205K on my now.
 
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atis

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I upgraded the spider when I swapped in the crate motor. I have a long thrad with some picts of the swap around here somewhere.
 
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atis

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crap, sorry got side tracked...

Motor is fine...but it killed my tranny (which I expected). I am getting 18.2-19mpg of mixed (mostly highway) driving. I towed with her in April on a 1,200 mile trip (5,500lbs trailer) and managed 10 mpg but the motor didnt really start to produce the mpg till June after I put 8,000 miles on her. No issues: No burning oil, no over heating (went to a larger alum radiator), no noises, starts right up. I am running semisynthetic 5w30 oil in her at the moment.

I did develop a misfire on the number 2 cylinder.... but I pulled the plug and it showed deposits from the additives I had added (she sat for 9 months with the same 1/2 tank of gas so I added 3 bottles of octang boost, water remover, and 2 bottles of injector cleaner over the first month of the new engine) so I repalced it and she runs fine now. Nice smooth idle.

If I knew what I know now the only things I would change are that I would replace the distributor at the same time and the ignition coil since you already in there. Not that I am having issues with them but I have now read enough to know that the plastic dizzy cracks and I figure with 183,000 miles the ignition coil is probably a little wore out.
 

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