Center console sub specs??

[Mr. 960]

It will definitely handle the power, I tried to blow it using an old Kicker ZX1500.1 and it wouldn't blow after more than 20 minutes. I believe it's a dual 2 ohm but I could be wrong. You can take a look in that Duramax build thread and see how I wired it up in my friends' truck still using the stock Bose system. In my Tahoe I replaced the head unit so I didn't have to tap the rear speakers for a source.

Am I reading this right?? The stock 2ohm dual voice coil sub took 1500 watts??? I could not find how you modified your friends duramax sub. I saw the Tahoe build and the duramax complete center console sub replacement.

Thanks

 

[gtrslngrchris]

Am I reading this right?? The stock 2ohm dual voice coil sub took 1500 watts??? I could not find how you modified your friends duramax sub. I saw the Tahoe build and the duramax complete center console sub replacement.

Thanks

I was pretty shocked but the Kicker ZX1500.1 I had powering it is no slouch and it's an older and well known amp to have more power than it's rated for and each came with a sheet showing it's capabilities.

I actually was wrong earlier the post for modifying my friends' Duramax Bose sub was post 93 here but it's identical to the Tahoe. I actually looked up my own post from when we did his truck for when I modified my Tahoe earlier this year. The only changes I made from his truck were to wire the sub speaker wire with a quick disconnect so I could easily remove the console later on if I wanted.

 

[Mr. 960]

is this sort of the same thing? I had seen this posted earlier on an avalanche forum:

i removed the center console box only 5 screws i think around the top under the lid and 4 below the little rubber insert in the bottom then u can see the amp and connectors there r 2 the one on the pass side has the sub wires and the other has the pink wire i taped into for the amp remote on the sub wires are dk blu/wht left + and lt grn/blkleft - dk grn right + lt blu/blk-right- dont even have to remove the amp i just removed the connectors for more room to work then cut the speaker wires the ones from the connector splice to the amp the ones left go from ur amp to the sub reconnect the connectors to the amp then its just power and ground plus the remote on for the amp then enjoy ur (new) sub

This looks like it does not require removing the console to get to the sub's spade connectors. I guess I could still just connect the new amp wires to the 4 wires mentioned above. The only difference is that the signal is coming off the Sub as opposed to the rear speakers. Sorry I'm not too familiar with aftermarket amps and wiring.