BB tune trans settings

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I'm no tuning expert, but my unscientific research suggests that the significant slippage between gears in most factory transmissions causes more heat than the quicker shifts do; thus, it may be argued that quicker/firmer shifting may actually prolong the life of your average mechanicals in transmissions.

Again, I'm no expert.
While getting my tune, BB did mention the firmer shifts actually helps the trans.
 

sumo

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I removed all torque management. Pretty cool to be able to chirp tires. I've been running with firm shift over 8 years without any probmes. Torque management is bad. Allowing the trans to slip creates unwanted heat, which is killer for transmissions
 

about20ninj45

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I removed all torque management. Pretty cool to be able to chirp tires. I've been running with firm shift over 8 years without any probmes. Torque management is bad. Allowing the trans to slip creates unwanted heat, which is killer for transmissions

Torque management is what helps these transmissions live, along with an upgraded trans cooler. Gm made the "slippage" by design for a more luxury feel. You will still create more stress with firmer shifts than you would with soft shifts.
 

sumo

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Torque management is what helps these transmissions live, along with an upgraded trans cooler. Gm made the "slippage" by design for a more luxury feel. You will still create more stress with firmer shifts than you would with soft shifts.

Yes I stand corrected. What I was thinking about was the partial torque converter lock up and the duty cycle
 

sumo

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Thanks, I'll check it out tomorrow.. The compressor makes sense cause the air doesn't get as cold at times, mainly at idle it seems.. Unless the tensioner could cause that too?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Can you please explain a little more?

Now I am no transmission expert but I am in the market for upgrading my transmission and started researching different companies, then lead to other people's experiences, then lead to failures and what causes them

The 4l60e uses the pcm to control torque converter lock up using the tcc solenoid. It tells when the converter to lock up and disengage using a pulse modulation or duty cycle. Partial lock up allows slippage to happen under certain conditions and transition into a smooth lock up. On lower engine and road speeds it will allow the converter to be partially locked and eliminate the need for downshifting or to avoid stalling.
Partial locking can cause added heat and could burn up clutches. I know tuners can disable this feature and make it as a on or off state or modify the duty cycle of the solenoid. Some trans companies can disable that too like performabuild trans.
 

992dr

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PWM = Pulse width modulation

You can eliminate this with a fitzall valve. This makes your tcc an on/off valve like the old days.

Another killer to the 4l60e is the wear to the bore of the tcc valve, which in turn will lock and unlock and create a shudder over time. It will start off slight and end up shaking your change out of your pockets.

http://www.fitzall.com/supportDetail.php?A74741Q-188

I think I removed most tq management, mine firms up more at wot and is pretty normal for around town driving. If I remember correctly, the worst thing you want to do is turn up the pressure.
 

about20ninj45

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PWM = Pulse width modulation

You can eliminate this with a fitzall valve. This makes your tcc an on/off valve like the old days.

Another killer to the 4l60e is the wear to the bore of the tcc valve, which in turn will lock and unlock and create a shudder over time. It will start off slight and end up shaking your change out of your pockets.

http://www.fitzall.com/supportDetail.php?A74741Q-188

I think I removed most tq management, mine firms up more at wot and is pretty normal for around town driving. If I remember correctly, the worst thing you want to do is turn up the pressure.


yea, increasing line pressure plus a corvette servo isnt good
 

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Can someone tell me (or esplain to me) if i can and if i should put a corvette servo in my 13 hoe (6sp) AND when i change the fluid, (soon because i do plow and i's a scared, 55k and i want it to last) what can i or should i do (shift kit? Can i?) while the pan is down to help my poor snowplowing hoe AND if using synthetic trans fluid will be beneficial ( royal purple, which if i go with synthetic i'd have to drain/run/refill a few times to get the old fluid out of converter, correct?) please? Esplain in stupid people talk because im stupid. Thank you.
 

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