I have a 6" lift, need help fitting 35x12.50R20 tires. Any advice?

[20hoe3]

Just put cognito lift upper control arms, eBay keys, 2" coil spacer, and zone 1.5" body lift. Then run some 20x12 on 305/55R20

Nice! I never heard of cognito till now.

 

[20hoe3]

And replace CV joints constantly...

yeah that is my worry too LOL. the suspension travel is perfect right now.

 

[01Konvict]

And replace CV joints constantly...

You can crank the keys a little without killing CVs. I'm not saying crank to max but run them at a slight negative angle maybe 1-1.5" lift.

When I called Fabtech, they said they made it to where they basically lifted truck and while keeping factory suspension geometry. So, I figued well if its factory geometry what harm would be to add rear coil spacers and torsion keys. Wouldnt that be like adding that to a stock suspension set up?

The wheels I would like to go with is 20". The problem is idk what width and offset to go with.

Yes adding keys and spacers to current lift is just like adding them to stock stuff. I ran 2" keys and spacers with no issues on my 01 Yukon. It was close on the upper arms to droop stops that's why I said new arms. All my angles were fine though and never broke or bound any CVs. Its still driving around town with no issues well over 50k miles on level lift. You can add 1.5" coil spacers and lift keys to be conservative with no upgrades to upper arms. Add the zone 1.5" Body Lift to add more clearance. Put a HD hood on it to finish the look.

As far as wheels what look do you want, big and wide or tall and skinny? If you like big and wide plus don't want to regear then stick with 20x12 on 305/55R20. If you like tall and skinny then get some classic polished pro comp 69 series 17s on 35s.

 

[yates ™]

Nice! I never heard of cognito till now.

yeah that is my worry too LOL. the suspension travel is perfect right now.

Please do more research before taking that advice. Your suspension looks to be setup almost perfectly now, close to factory angles from what I can see, if you stretch everything out it will ride worse and you will have more issues.

 

[yates ™]

You can crank the keys a little without killing CVs. I'm not saying crank to max but run them at a slight negative angle maybe 1-1.5" lift.

If he is cranking enough to need new uppers than it is going to be ugly under there.

 

[01Konvict]

If he is cranking enough to need new uppers than it is going to be ugly under there.

True on that point, just don't crank them to max. After my level kit and lifted Denali I would run better uppers regardless on any lift.

 

[yates ™]

The only thing you're gaining with uppers is better ball joint angles, if those are that far off so if everything else. I mentioned cranking slightly but the more he does the more negative that can come from it. I just do not want to see OP buy these parts and then have a horrible riding, parts eating truck.

 

[20hoe3]

Do you know what adding extra lift does to nearly every component in the front? The kit is designed for the way it is setup, you could probably get be with cranking slightly higher.

20" means nothing, you will likely have to go with a near stock offset to get even close to making this work. Like I asked before, take some pics, you may be fine with a little cranking. Take pics of the wheels turned both ways and check for clearance. Also what tire are you wanting to get? Not all measure out to 35" so that may be to your benefit.

you asked me what

Do you know what adding extra lift does to nearly every component in the front? The kit is designed for the way it is setup, you could probably get be with cranking slightly higher.

20" means nothing, you will likely have to go with a near stock offset to get even close to making this work. Like I asked before, take some pics, you may be fine with a little cranking. Take pics of the wheels turned both ways and check for clearance. Also what tire are you wanting to get? Not all measure out to 35" so that may be to your benefit.

your right 20" diameter doesnt matter. but the offset and width does matter also depending on what rubber i go with. I am aware that there is many different tire sizes that i can go with slightly +/- 35" tall and slightly +/-12.50" wide. That is why I chose my current tire so that I dont rub today. My current tire is (I cant remember exactly) probably 3/4" away from touching UCA probably due to . Also about an 3/4" from rubbing body of front wheel well and front black trim. I took pictures awhile back for myself but I cant find them right now. But Ill take some extra pics for you. I probably want to stick with BF Goodrich A/T KO2's. well at least you said I might be able to crank them slightly. which yes, in turn starts to mess up CV angles and i'll lose suspension travel with arms going down.

I appreciate your input by the way!

 

[yates ™]

If you're close to rubbing control arm that is a bit different than rubbing liner, bumper, or fender. Basically wanting pictures to see where you're at now in terms of potential rubbing areas.

 

[BigDaddy13440]

If you want to go with a 20" wheel, and are looking to be ABOUT a 35" tire, you have a few options. Of course, specs vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, and from tire to tire:

35 x 12.5 x 20 = about 34.5-34.7" tall, roughly 12.5" wide
275/65/20 = 34.2-34.5", 11"
285/60/20 = 33.4-33.7", 11.5"
285/65/20 = 34.5-34.7", 11.5"
295/60/20 = 34.1-34.4", 11.8"
295/65/20 = 35.2-35.4", 11.8"
325/60/20 = 35.4-35.7", 13"

I just got these specs from http://www.tirerack.com/tires/sizes/results.jsp?diameter=20

There are other sizes available from other tire companies, such as a 305/60/20, 315/60/20, 355/60/20... you just have to Google search for them, or even use Ebay.