What are your must-do things on new-to-you gmt900?

[Malii Denali]

if you take it to the dealer close to a grand, that cost is split between fluids and labor
these are "estimated" cost's from my dealer locally some of it I am not 100% sure, the $100 estimates may be low
trans: $250
coolant $199
brake flush $100
power steering $100
transfer case $100
front diff $100
rear diff $100

Thanks. I’ll give my local dealer a call in the morning.

 

[Meccanoble]

Check those motor mounts, a weak spot on these trucks.

 

[AirJordan613]

When I was 1st in the market for a car that eventually led me to my Yukon, there was a 2009 Tahoe LTZ with the 6.2 @ 15x,000 miles for sale not too far (25 mins away) and I didn't know much about the variations. A week or so later when I realized I was going to need a new/replacement car the 2009 was gone.

They sell fast once someone realizes what it is.

 

[Charlie207]

They sell fast once someone realizes what it is.

The funny thing was that it had sat for a while. I just wasn't in the market.

 

[AirJordan613]

The funny thing was that it had sat for a while. I just wasn't in the market.

Ah gotcha. They can be found, just may take a little time and effort since search filters don't really help weed them out. Can tell by VIN though.

 

[OR VietVet]

Is it just that certain year that had a 6.2 Tahoe or what am I missing?

 

[AirJordan613]

Is it just that certain year that had a 6.2 Tahoe or what am I missing?

Just 08 and 09. Optional on LTZ trim. 08 was 2wd only and had the L92 motor. 09 came in 2wd or 4wd and had the L9H. Both model years are pretty rare.

 

[mountie]

I went to So. California, for 10 days.... last month......( '05 Yukon XL with 165,000 ) While I was gone, I had my TRUSTWORTHY mechanic do a service..... engine oil / filter, transmission fluid / filter, changed / flushed coolant & replaced my overflow bottle finally, drained/ filled front differential & transfer case. ( all looked good)..... and did an 'all-around' check while up on the lift.....
My invoice was just under $520. Wow..... not bad !! IMO

 

[AirJordan613]

I went to So. California, for 10 days.... last month......( '05 Yukon XL with 165,000 ) While I was gone, I had my TRUSTWORTHY mechanic do a service..... engine oil / filter, transmission fluid / filter, changed / flushed coolant & replaced my overflow bottle finally, drained/ filled front differential & transfer case. ( all looked good)..... and did an 'all-around' check while up on the lift.....
My invoice was just under $520. Wow..... not bad !! IMO

Heckuva deal

 

[OR VietVet]

I went to So. California, for 10 days.... last month......( '05 Yukon XL with 165,000 ) While I was gone, I had my TRUSTWORTHY mechanic do a service..... engine oil / filter, transmission fluid / filter, changed / flushed coolant & replaced my overflow bottle finally, drained/ filled front differential & transfer case. ( all looked good)..... and did an 'all-around' check while up on the lift.....
My invoice was just under $520. Wow..... not bad !! IMO

I would have done all that for you for $500.

 

[AirJordan613]

I would have done all that for you for $500.

Sign me up

 

[Monz11]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

Be sure to change ALL cooling hoses, including the 2 plastic Tees near the fire wall on the passengers side, even if they look good.

I would suggest replacing the two plastic tees, with the aluminum ones, dangit the guy that's out of atlanta that machines parts, for the mirror gears, etc. those are definitely a lifesaver. If you're going as far as replacing all fluids and hose, you might as well pull engine, do cam, crank, bearings, rocker arms, etc. its so worth it, then hoses, fluids. Also, Atomic Fab & performance has by far the best engine mounts out there.

 

[Geotrash]

I would suggest replacing the two plastic tees, with the aluminum ones, dangit the guy that's out of atlanta that machines parts, for the mirror gears, etc. those are definitely a lifesaver. If you're going as far as replacing all fluids and hose, you might as well pull engine, do cam, crank, bearings, rocker arms, etc. its so worth it, then hoses, fluids. Also, Atomic Fab & performance has by far the best engine mounts out there.

Gruven Parts. I took the Gruven tees *out* of my 2012. I couldn't get them to seal up and stay that way through the season changes. As soon as fall rolled around, I'd have leaks. Tightening the clamps would work for a while and then pretty soon...drip...drip...drip. Ended up just going back to the OEM plastic tees. Didn't have the same problem on my '07 so the Gruven teens are still there and doing fine. The problem is that they supply nice silicone hoses to mount them with, but worm drive clamps designed for *rubber* hose. I should have used spring clamps and I probably would have been fine, but oh well. Just wanted to let folks who might read this know that if they install the Gruven tees, use spring clamps.

 

[donjetman]

I would suggest replacing the two plastic tees, with the aluminum ones, dangit the guy that's out of atlanta that machines parts, for the mirror gears, etc. those are definitely a lifesaver. If you're going as far as replacing all fluids and hose, you might as well pull engine, do cam, crank, bearings, rocker arms, etc. its so worth it, then hoses, fluids. Also, Atomic Fab & performance has by far the best engine mounts out there.

I installed the GruvenParts.com Ts and mirror gears 3+ yrs ago. PITA to install, but haven't had to touch'em since.

 

[Trey Hardy]

Got a lifter tap again the other day and oil was at level so I added a 1/4 bottle of mmo to it and she is quiet as a church mouse once again

Love mmo, used it on all my boat engines!

 

[alpha_omega]

The problem is that they supply nice silicone hoses to mount them with, but worm drive clamps designed for *rubber* hose. I should have used spring clamps and I probably would have been fine, but oh well. Just wanted to let folks who might read this know that if they install the Gruven tees, use spring clamps.

You might even go as far as to say that they would be better off using spring clamps on their hoses regardless if they are rubber or not. Worm drive work themselves loose over time, even if you tape or wrap silicone wrap them.

Did you use a heat gun on your silicone hoses to soften them up prior to install in order to get a better fit/tighter seal?

 

[OR VietVet]

Spring or band clamps, are my preference.

 

[Geotrash]

You might even go as far as to say that they would be better off using spring clamps on their hoses regardless if they are rubber or not. Worm drive work themselves loose over time, even if you tape or wrap silicone wrap them.

Did you use a heat gun on your silicone hoses to soften them up prior to install in order to get a better fit/tighter seal?

No, I didn’t. Might’ve helped. And I agree with your spring clamp suggestion.