Road trip mods

[Venator]

I think this is the best sub-forum for this thread; mods please feel free to relocate it if not. I'm starting with a 2016 PPV 4wd. Leaving the mechanicals stock. Want to add a few functional electronic things to make road trips nicer.

I permanently-mounted and hardwired my radar detector. I hate temporary solutions such as suction cups and cigarette-lighter power plugs. My detector is a Radenso DS1.

I ordered the Radenso hardwire kit with remote mute button from Radenso, and a permanent glass mount from an eBay vendor (the only one I was able to find for this detector). If all I needed was power, I could have made my own cable, but I wanted a remote mute button so I wouldn't have to reach up to the top of the detector to mute it.

I experimented with the mounting position; I wanted it tucked up nice and high, but had to allow space for my fingers to operate the controls located along the top front of the detector (menu, volume, etc). I also needed to be able to adjust the mirror of course, and still use the passenger-side sun visor. Once I had settled on the location, I cleaned the glass with an isopropyl alcohol pad. I had a co-worker look from behind and tell me what I needed to do to get it sitting straight, then pressed the adhesive mount onto the glass.

I used an add-a-fuse to tap a RAP source in the left-side dash fuse box. I mounted the remote mute button and LED on a flat spot of the dash to the right of the steering column. Tucked the wires away taking care to not interfere with the A-pillar air-bag deployment.

It's barely noticeable from the outside, even when it's not raining.

This detector is nice because it is quite resistant to falses, is extremely configurable, and has a GPS for red-light and speed camera alerts, as well as auto-lockout for known falses (compares radar frequency and location, and automatically locks out that alert after I've encountered it 3 times, at least 8 hours apart). I keep the display turned off; I don't look at it when I hear an alert, and I don't want it lit up when viewed from behind.

The coiled cable in the 3rd photo is for a microphone; more on that later.

 

[Doubeleive]

I think this is the best sub-forum for this thread; mods please feel free to relocate it if not. I'm starting with a 2016 PPV 4wd. Leaving the mechanicals stock. Want to add a few functional electronic things to make road trips nicer.

I permanently-mounted and hardwired my radar detector. I hate temporary solutions such as suction cups and cigarette-lighter power plugs. My detector is a Radenso DS1.

I ordered the Radenso hardwire kit with remote mute button from Radenso, and a permanent glass mount from an eBay vendor (the only one I was able to find for this detector). If all I needed was power, I could have made my own cable, but I wanted a remote mute button so I wouldn't have to reach up to the top of the detector to mute it.

I experimented with the mounting position; I wanted it tucked up nice and high, but had to allow space for my fingers to operate the controls located along the top front of the detector (menu, volume, etc). I also needed to be able to adjust the mirror of course, and still use the passenger-side sun visor. Once I had settled on the location, I cleaned the glass with an isopropyl alcohol pad. I had a co-worker look from behind and tell me what I needed to do to get it sitting straight, then pressed the adhesive mount onto the glass.

I used an add-a-fuse to tap a RAP source in the left-side dash fuse box. I mounted the remote mute button and LED on a flat spot of the dash to the right of the steering column. Tucked the wires away taking care to not interfere with the A-pillar air-bag deployment.

It's barely noticeable from the outside, even when it's not raining.

This detector is nice because it is quite resistant to falses, is extremely configurable, and has a GPS for red-light and speed camera alerts, as well as auto-lockout for known falses (compares radar frequency and location, and automatically locks out that alert after I've encountered it 3 times, at least 8 hours apart). I keep the display turned off; I don't look at it when I hear an alert, and I don't want it lit up when viewed from behind.

The coiled cable in the 3rd photo is for a microphone; more on that later.

all my V1's are mounted to the mirror and hardwired in. X & K band turned off because it's basically never used anymore.

 

[Venator]

Unfortunately they still use K in my area, although it's mostly Ka now (and LIDAR). The only time I see X is on some of the older speed-monitoring signs, so I also have X disabled.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Nice work.

 

[Venator]

I needed radio communications in the Tahoe. My requirements were VHF, UHF, NXDN, DMR, coverage of Amateur and commercial frequencies, and trunking. Front panel programming (FPP) ability would be nice.

After lots of research, I settled on the Kenwood NX-5000 series of radios: the NX-5700 VHF mobile, and the NX-5800 UHF mobile. The radios came with NXDN, with DMR an added option via a one-time license key purchase (per radio). FPP was another available added option via license key purchase.

My PPV had the center seat reinstalled, and no aluminum radio console, so I wanted to hide the radio decks somewhere and use remote heads. Kenwood has an optional KCH-20R enhanced remote head, capable of controlling up to three decks. I built a dual-deck system using the two radio decks (without their heads) and a KCH-20R. I added a DMR license to each deck. This gave me a multi-band, multi-mode radio system, legal for use on both Amateur and commercial frequencies, controlled by a single head.


The nice thing about setting up a PPV for radio use is it comes with holes in all the right places. I mounted the remote head on top of the dash using existing holes. Whatever had been mounted there before was facing the driver at exactly the angle I needed, at exactly the right distance from my eyes.


The KCH-20R can be switched to display both decks at the same time, or to a more-informative screen for a single deck. Audio from both decks can be heard from the one speaker during either screen view, with the selected deck taking priority if there are signals being received from both decks simultaneously.


I mounted the KES-5A speaker below the center of the dash. It's out of the way and sounds clear.


There were already three 3/4" holes in the roof from the police antennas, so I removed the plugs and installed NMO mounts with dual-shield coax (stranded center-conductor for mobile use). The front antenna is a Larsen WBQ-140 wide-band quarter-wave VHF, the middle antenna is a home-made wide-band quarter-wave UHF (made from an end-cutting of a VHF whip cut to 440 MHz, mated to a Larsen cone, Larsen straight-through NMO base, and topped with a Larsen ball). The third antenna is for a cell booster; more on that later. I use quarter-waves because they are physically-short, which allows me to fit into covered parking areas, and to take the Tahoe through an automatic car-wash without having to remove any antennas. There is also the antenna radiation pattern; quarter-waves are better when you're attempting to communicate in areas with varied heights like mountains, as opposed to a gain antenna like a 5/8th-wave which sends the signal out towards the horizon at the expense of vertical radiation.


The decks are hidden away from view, in a location where they can't be kicked by a passenger or hit by shifting cargo.

I'm using the KMC-66M DTMF microphone. The keypad allows me to access a telephone interconnect via our linked mountain-top repeater sites to make and receive phone calls if the cellular phone system is not functioning or doesn't cover my location. I haven't figured out a good location to hang the microphone yet, so no photo. It currently sits in a mic-sized pocket on the center console.

I've enabled a few other things in the system, such as cross-band repeat (had to make a custom cable), radio rebroadcast (switchable radio audio to an outside speaker), etc. I like maxing out my radios' capabilities, and the Kenwoods can do a lot.

I use the system for Amateur Radio, scanning, and work. I will also be using it on industrial roads (logging and mining roads) when I get back into exploring ghost towns and abandoned mines.

 

[Venator]

Installed a Surecall Fusion2Go 5G cell booster today. Hid the inside antenna above the roof-mounted center console. Tucked the unit inside a rear panel next to the parking-assist back-up sensor control module.

Rather than use the supplied mag-mount "shark fin" antenna, I used a Laird TRA6927M3NB-001 radome (698-960MHz, 1700-2700MHz, 3dbi, 100w) with an NMO mount on the roof. Photo in the previous post.

I had tested this particular unit in my previous vehicle, and it works very well. In the area I tested it (a known dead zone), my phone went from no cell signal (couldn't connect to the network to even send a text) to 3/4 or 4/4 bars of signal strength, depending on my elevation in the parking lot (low side or high side).

The unit will be kept switched off until it's actually needed.

 

[Venator]

I wanted a decent cell-phone mount that didn't use a suction cup, occupy a cup holder, or clip to a vent vane. It needed to be easily-visible from the driver's seat, and really solid.

After doing the usual research, I settled on the Proclip mount. No holes to drill, and custom-designed for specific vehicles. The mounts are composed of two pieces, the vehicle-specific mount and the device-specific holder (cell phone, GPS, etc).

The 2015-2020 Tahoe mount was p/n 865166, and the mount for my phone was p/n 711042 (medium universal adjustable Proclip holder). The 15%-off link on their site when you sign up wasn't working, but I found a 10%-off coupon after a quick online search.

Each piece was $39.99 USD, or $36 with the discount. Including shipping to Canada it was $96.04 USD, or $139.58 CAD. Yes, it's really expensive for some ABS plastic, but it's exactly what I needed, and it's the last cell phone mount I'll ever buy, for what I hope is the last vehicle I'll ever buy. So I didn't mind spending it.

Then they sent an email saying the 865166 was backordered. I guess not enough of you guys were ordering it, so they didn't make any more when they sold the last of them. lol

A week later I received an email saying my order had been shipped. It arrived two days later. I followed the instructions for the install and am happy to report that it works as intended for my phone (Oneplus 10 Pro phone with a Tudia DualShield Merge case).

It's solid and the phone doesn't move. The viewing angle and the width are adjustable, and both are locked into place via a single set screw. The side grips are positioned so they don't contact the phone buttons. The bottom is open to accommodate a charging cable and not block the opening for the speaker. The phone easily slides into place from the top and is easily pulled up and out. It's a well-designed piece of kit.

 

[Tonyrodz]

You've got some really nice electronics in there--very knowledgeable too. I also like stealthy installations. No need to show the thieves where things are. That's an awesome phone holder too.

 

[Venator]

I mounted my Garmin DriveSmart 66 GPS Navigator today, using a RAM diamond screwed to the A-pillar, a RAM arm, and a RAM ball to Garmin ball adapter. No suction cup to fall off the windshield when the temperature changes.

The screws and nylocs are shorter than the ribbing on the back of the A-pillar moulding, so no issues with the air bag.

I ran the power cable through an existing hole in the A-pillar from the removed A-pillar spot light.

I chose this location because it's easy to see and touch, and doesn't obscure anything.

 

[Padraig]

Looks good. i mounted my Rodenso a little different. I used double sided tape to mount a small metal plate to the window, removed the suction cups from the factory mount and replaced with two small magnets. Works fine and I can remove and replace it instantly. Hard wired from the fuse panel.

Padraig

 

[Venator]

That's a great idea! Mine is more difficult to remove; I need to use a hex key. But I wasn't planning on removing it. If I had thought of your idea though, I might have gone that route, just to give me the option of easy removal.

 

[OBSandaNNBS]

Wow, great thread. I'm a complete noob on radio, but I want a do-all at least do-a lot solution and you have got me pointed in the right direction!

 

[dntnvme]

I think this is the best sub-forum for this thread; mods please feel free to relocate it if not. I'm starting with a 2016 PPV 4wd. Leaving the mechanicals stock. Want to add a few functional electronic things to make road trips nicer.

I permanently-mounted and hardwired my radar detector. I hate temporary solutions such as suction cups and cigarette-lighter power plugs. My detector is a Radenso DS1.

I ordered the Radenso hardwire kit with remote mute button from Radenso, and a permanent glass mount from an eBay vendor (the only one I was able to find for this detector). If all I needed was power, I could have made my own cable, but I wanted a remote mute button so I wouldn't have to reach up to the top of the detector to mute it.

I experimented with the mounting position; I wanted it tucked up nice and high, but had to allow space for my fingers to operate the controls located along the top front of the detector (menu, volume, etc). I also needed to be able to adjust the mirror of course, and still use the passenger-side sun visor. Once I had settled on the location, I cleaned the glass with an isopropyl alcohol pad. I had a co-worker look from behind and tell me what I needed to do to get it sitting straight, then pressed the adhesive mount onto the glass.

I used an add-a-fuse to tap a RAP source in the left-side dash fuse box. I mounted the remote mute button and LED on a flat spot of the dash to the right of the steering column. Tucked the wires away taking care to not interfere with the A-pillar air-bag deployment.

It's barely noticeable from the outside, even when it's not raining.

This detector is great because it’s very good at avoiding false alarms, highly customizable, and has GPS for red-light and speed camera alerts. It even automatically locks out known false alerts after you’ve encountered them a few times, based on radar frequency and location. If you need more info or help setting something up, you can contact Flighthub. I keep the display off since I only listen for alerts and don’t want the screen lighting up behind me.

The coiled cable in the 3rd photo is for a microphone; more on that later.

That sounds like a well-thought-out, clean installation, discreet, functional, and perfect for long road trips.

 

[Venator]

I took a long (for me) solo day trip on Saturday. Left the house at 7am and returned at 7:08pm.

When I left the last town with cellular service, I switched on the cell booster and managed to get a decent signal all the way to the next town and just past it, where I wouldn't have had any signal otherwise. I was a little surprised, as I was in a forested valley behind some hills. I was regularly updating a buddy on my progress/location via text message, and running the Highway Radar app.

The next section was on gravel roads through mountains. Zero cell signal even with the booster. When I arrived at the next small town, I used my VHF radio to access our nearest mountain-top trunking site (which was still a fair distance away, but it's up really high) and used our telephone interconnect to call my buddy with the position update.

I eventually made it out to a highway, which took me to another highway, and finally to a third highway where I got cell service again (with the booster). Sent another position update to let him know I was back on pavement. Then a long drive home via two highways. The first highway cuts through tall mountains, and usually has no cell service in a long section between towns, but the booster provided me with coverage through most of it. Our trunking system also covers this highway, so if I didn't have cell service, I could have still made a phone call.

The temperature was 35 degrees C for a lot of the trip, so I really appreciated having good air conditioning. I also had a Koolatron 12v cooler from my old 4-wheeling/camping days, and that worked great to keep my drinks (cans of flavoured carbonated water and Cherry Coke Zero) cold.

The reason I was providing my buddy with the regular position updates (and to where I was headed next) is because I was alone, plus I have some minor physical disabilities due to health issues, so it was a safety net. He has an Explorer which is capable of travelling the same roads, and is familiar with the areas I was checking out. He also has one of our VHF radios, programmed for the trunk and telephone interconnect.

It was a great feeling getting out and driving the backroads again (I've really missed doing it). I got back early enough to start my daily 8-hour dialysis session at a reasonable time. I still haven't driven the Tahoe in the dark yet.

 

[Venator]

I've been trying to find a solution for mounting my microphone. I had it sitting in a mic-sized pocket on my center console, which was fine for temporary use, other than picking up the mic was a little awkward since it would be "upside down". I was unable mount it on the face of the dash in an easy-to-reach location, due to shifter movement, stereo display panel, etc.

I got a custom powder-coated aluminum plate from one of my customers, and he tapped it and mounted my Magnetic Mic clip to it. I had purchased the Magnetic Mic clip years ago, knowing that I'd find a use for it "some day".

I mounted the plate to my headliner above the overhead console using black hex hardware for looks, with big fender washers on the back side, secured with Nylocs.

Rather than have the coiled mic cord coming up from the remote head on top of the dash to the overhead console area, I bought a black 10' shielded CAT 8 male to female extension cable (double aluminum-foil shield, oxygen-free copper wire) and ran it from the mic jack up through the trim to the overhead center-console area. I had the cable exit through a hole in the sunglasses-holder pocket that was already there from its previous life (the actual movable sunglasses-holder had been removed).

I secured the female extension-cable end to the mount for the overhead console with nylon wire ties, reinstalled the upper console, and plugged in the mic.

It's easily reached and replaced, and is positioned far-enough back that it doesn't impede my view of the windshield.

The Magnetic Mic clip has a really strong pull; no concerns about the mic falling off while driving over rough terrain. The advantage over a standard mic hanger is that you don't have to be accurate when replacing the mic; you just have to be "close" and the magnet will pull the mic into place.