Powerstop K6560-36 vs Detroit Axle Drilled/Slotted Brake Kits
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Trey Hardy
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I have both the Detroit pads suck besides that it’s decent for the money
I swapped to the power stop on my Dailey driver Tahoe she stops on a dime just about however after awhile the pads started slinging more dust then I’d like but it took awhile to get to that point. Probably swap pads down the road
So follow up question there... Would you go:
Powerstop kit, then swap to detroit pads down the road?
Detroit kit, then swap to powerstop pads down the road?
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Detroit axle is about the lowest of the low. GM OE or ACDelco Professional/Gold is much more enduring.
I’ve used R1 and powerstop. Ceramic pads, slotted and drilled. Both were fine.
Trey Hardy
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No I’d get the power stop rotors and probably some ac delco premium pads every ceramic pads I’ve tried has been ****** as far as dust that’s my only complaint.
I will say power stop rotors have held up a lot better than the detriots have.
I haven’t had any experience with r1 brakes.
I did get a set of Callahan brakes that’s held up good it was the front rotors pads and powder coated red calipers I got them because it was cheaper then the power stop at the time I got them off eBay I haven’t found any on Amazon yet.
I will say power stop rotors have held up a lot better than the detriots have.
I haven’t had any experience with r1 brakes.
I did get a set of Callahan brakes that’s held up good it was the front rotors pads and powder coated red calipers I got them because it was cheaper then the power stop at the time I got them off eBay I haven’t found any on Amazon yet.
Thank you both! I have Powerstop rotors/drums on my Tundra and Tacoma and I feel like they've done well. I think I'm going to go with the R1 Super Duty kit. I don't plan to tow/haul too often, but it'll be nice to have when I do. I'll come back to this to report after I've had some time to test.
I swapped my front pads for Akebono's a while back...no dust whatsoever...
However i'm getting ready to change them out and was wondering about the Powerstop deal...
However i'm getting ready to change them out and was wondering about the Powerstop deal...
swathdiver
Full Access Member
I bought these for my daughter's lifted Sierra. Same part numbers for Yukon XL. Don't forget the drag reduction clips! 18K1025SS and 18K1027SS
Rayyy
Full Access Member
I got the PowerStop drilled/slotted rotors, along with the PowerStop Extreme Severe-Duty Truck & Tow brake pads… and this combo is by far the best brakes I’ve ever had on any truck in my entire life.
I’ve tried Detroit Axle, EBC (Green Stuff and Yellow Stuff)… none come close.
I’ve put almost 10,000 miles on this combo so far, still stop on a dime, no need to warm up, and modulation control is absolutely phenomenal.
I’ve tried Detroit Axle, EBC (Green Stuff and Yellow Stuff)… none come close.
I’ve put almost 10,000 miles on this combo so far, still stop on a dime, no need to warm up, and modulation control is absolutely phenomenal.
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Rayyy
Full Access Member
Btw I’ve not tried the Severe-Duty AC Delco, though, which I imagine could be a formidable contender.
this set will run you about $450, can't beat it unless you go up to a big brake kit
most of your other brake calipers out there are "remanufactured"
even the powerstop rotors are from "oem samples"
most of your other brake calipers out there are "remanufactured"
even the powerstop rotors are from "oem samples"
You don't have many posts, so just making sure; Have you already upgraded the calipers to the NNBS? Those pads won't work in 2004 calipers. (The 2005-2007 NBS have the same size rotors, but different style pads and calipers than the NNBS (/K2XX) caliper upgrade.
I'm always the buzzkill on this one, but why slotted and drilled? Those slots and holes are designed to remove EXCESS gasses. Are you road course racing your Tahoe? Do you hit the Tail of the Dragon? If you NEEDED slotted and drilled on the street, I promise you would earn at least one reckless driving ticket. They are popular because they are the "cool thing to do", but there is less surface area to create friction.
My analogy, is if you race it, or you have two really heavy feet and drive in DC, Dallas, New York, or LA style traffic; or perhaps you tow heavy in a hilly area, then maybe you want slotted or cross drilled. If you know not to give yourself an ulcer from driving, know how to coast, or live out in the country where your biggest concern is an animal jumping out in front of you, then blank rotors have more surface area, which will create more friction, and stop shorter.
I'm always the buzzkill on this one, but why slotted and drilled? Those slots and holes are designed to remove EXCESS gasses. Are you road course racing your Tahoe? Do you hit the Tail of the Dragon? If you NEEDED slotted and drilled on the street, I promise you would earn at least one reckless driving ticket. They are popular because they are the "cool thing to do", but there is less surface area to create friction.
My analogy, is if you race it, or you have two really heavy feet and drive in DC, Dallas, New York, or LA style traffic; or perhaps you tow heavy in a hilly area, then maybe you want slotted or cross drilled. If you know not to give yourself an ulcer from driving, know how to coast, or live out in the country where your biggest concern is an animal jumping out in front of you, then blank rotors have more surface area, which will create more friction, and stop shorter.
petethepug
Michael
Get the PowerStop.
* Zinc coating is unstoppable. They still look new after 7 years.
* x drilled holes are countersunk to stop spider cracks.
* slots & x drill eliminate warp / pad accumulation pulsing.
* they disburse water without pumping brakes.
* I haven’t tracked them, but they do not fade or glaze pads.
I run them on 2 VW, Audi & Esky. Three are daily’s. They save the pads, quiet and last. Do not purchase their F/R kit with pads. Save $50+ purchasing separately. I use Bosch ceramic pads on everything. Ultra low dust, quiet 100% of the time and predictable cold or hot. There are no performance or maintenance downsides. You’ll get at least a decade out of them and they do not rust.
* Zinc coating is unstoppable. They still look new after 7 years.
* x drilled holes are countersunk to stop spider cracks.
* slots & x drill eliminate warp / pad accumulation pulsing.
* they disburse water without pumping brakes.
* I haven’t tracked them, but they do not fade or glaze pads.
I run them on 2 VW, Audi & Esky. Three are daily’s. They save the pads, quiet and last. Do not purchase their F/R kit with pads. Save $50+ purchasing separately. I use Bosch ceramic pads on everything. Ultra low dust, quiet 100% of the time and predictable cold or hot. There are no performance or maintenance downsides. You’ll get at least a decade out of them and they do not rust.
