Popping sound when accelerating from stop with turned wheel

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DontTaseMeBro

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Was in a parking lot. Came to a stop. Turned steering wheel to the right full lock. Hit the accelerator and heard a loud pop. 2022 Yukon XL with 43k miles. Does that sound like a damaged CV?
 
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DontTaseMeBro

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Ugh, so despite replacing the faulty CV(grease all over it; found pin hole in the boot), I still hear a metallic popping sound. It's not the same as the one I had with the faulty CV. I did some more testing on the road yesterday and I can replicate the sound when I stop, turn the wheel to one direction or the other, then accelerate. That or when I'm already driving and turn, and drive through say something like a street gutter. I already checked the rear sway bar link upper attachments and found that one of the nuts was a 1/4 turn loose. Unfortunately, that didn't remedy the issue.

I'm kind of not sure what to check next other than to ensure that all of the front suspension components are properly torqued down. With that being said, does anyone have a the tq specs for the front end suspension?
 
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DontTaseMeBro

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Another scenario where I noticed the sound. Going about 30 miles and hour, slow down to about 15 and coast into a turn. Same sound metallic clank as soon as I turn the wheel while coasting. No braking or acceleration this time. Just turning.
 

Fless

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The break rotor?

Brakes.jpeg
 
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DontTaseMeBro

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The break rotor?
Anyways, what would cleaning the face of the brake rotor accomplish? I’m hearing a clunk. But none of the suspension parts appear to be worn or damaged. I posted up in the GD that it maybe a normal sound from the steering rack bottoming out when turning.
 

swathdiver

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Strapped a go pro underneath the vehicle and was able to capture the sound.

Tie rods or ball joints or swaybar end links? Many of the nuts on the suspension parts are set to 37 foot pounds. The tie rod jam nut is 55 foot pounds if memory serves on most vehicles. Put a wrench or socket on the strut bolts and nuts and give them a yank too.
 
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DontTaseMeBro

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Tie rods or ball joints or swaybar end links? Many of the nuts on the suspension parts are set to 37 foot pounds. The tie rod jam nut is 55 foot pounds if memory serves on most vehicles. Put a wrench or socket on the strut bolts and nuts and give them a yank too.
So I took it to the alignment shop a few weeks ago and they checked everything for looseness. Said it all checked out. Wondering if it’s a bent control arm like in this post:

Post in thread ''21 YukonXL Denali-Click/Pop/Tick from wheel assembly'
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...-tick-from-wheel-assembly.149861/post-1902519
 

Tahoe14

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I saw that when he posted so a possibility for sure. Only other thing unless you watched them or trust them is to put a wrench on all the components that swathdiver suggested. At least you would know for sure. Peace of mind.
 
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DontTaseMeBro

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Update: Taking her into the dealer. I will be showing them video of the sound it makes. Fingers crossed that they can find the cause.
 
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DontTaseMeBro

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Update2: Dropped 'er off at the dealer and just heard back that they were able to hear the same sound when driving but cannot hear it when the vehicle is up in the air. So with that being said, they are going to use their wireless chassis ear system to isolate where its coming from. And the good news is that the diag is a free token since the initial reason for the visit was them calling me and telling me that GM found something wrong with the parking sensor retrofit that they did earlier this year.
 
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DontTaseMeBro

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Update 3: Just got the call that the dealer thinks they found the culprit. One of the exhaust pipes between the manifold and muffler is hitting the cross member. This isn't a surprise since the engine was replaced last year which inevitably means they had to remove and reattach the exhaust. That being said, the work was done by a dealer in Arizona with the previous owner. So this dealer is quoting me $240 to reposition the pipe so that it not longer makes contact with the cross member.

Question for you all, shouldn't this be covered by the 60k power train warranty? I have 44k miles on the odometer.

Update 4: FML. Dropped the vehicle off at the dealership yesterday. They diagnosed the problem and told me that the exhaust was making contact with the crossmember. Unfortunately, their fix didn't work. Drove it around the block a few times and didn't hear the sound after I picked up the vehicle. Was nearing my home and rolled the window down again. Lo and behold, heard a loud pop when executing a left turn at about 15 miles an hour. Called the dealership and was told to bring it back for another look... This time I'm going to go for a ride with somebody there so they can hear it with me.

Also, I feel super dumb for completely forgetting to show them the video that I made...

 
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