Performance on a 2007 GMC Yukon Denali

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pun2310

pun2310

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10s in the quarter? Pretty ambitious… I hope you have deep pockets….
You’re right it does sound ambitious. Maybe you guys can help me with a simple build. What kind of competition cams do you guys recommend, rear end gear ratio. Will it be worth putting long headers
 

CaptainAmerica1

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Yes, long tubes will net you some power, a mild stage 2 cam will still be streetable, but now we’re getting into torque converter swap territory and having to rebuild the tranny to handle the extra power, next thing to pop is the rear end, all this power is gonna need better suspension to get it to hook, you see how it snowballs?!….
 

CaptainAmerica1

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You got access to E85 in your area? Local tuner that can tune for all these mods?
I’m not trying to dissuade you from doing it, I’m just saying you should get your ducks in a row or it’s gonna cost you way more than it should.
 

swathdiver

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You’re right it does sound ambitious. Maybe you guys can help me with a simple build. What kind of competition cams do you guys recommend, rear end gear ratio. Will it be worth putting long headers
First off, are you going to keep it AWD?

If you want that thing to hook, you'll want a smaller wheel so the tires can have a bigger sidewall for launching and not spinning. 17s or 18s would be my choice.

Gearing depends on what you are going to do with it. Turbochargers don't like to pull on a low, numerically high, gear.

If you keep it naturally aspirated, 4.10s will drive up your cruise rpms about 350 over the stock 3.42s at 70 mph, to about 2100.

Well, ask Randy, he's actually done it with a Yukon Denali. My experience comes from a long time ago on a completely different platform.
 

Doubeleive

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yep just getting my trans ready for 500hp cost $4k, if I want to go up from there it cost's more
 
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The weight of these vehicles tends to break things when a lot of power is applied to it.

It'd actually be easier and cheaper to pull the engine and trans and put it into a cheap beater car that weighs less than 3000 lbs. That'll get you low 11s @ about 118-120mph. Longtubes, cam, and lower rear gear will get you 10s
 

randeez

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*deep breath*
just by the numbers you need bout 900+whp. 1100ish crank.
not un heard off for sbe "ls3" block and as the internet tells you making 1k is so easy, its not if you want to do anything more than tow it to the track make two passes and tow it home. shit breaks, conditions change, the magical ecm doesnt always do what you tell it to do.

how you choose to get there is up to you:

pd blower, easiest install, going to be realll hard, not impossible, but real hard with the small 1900/2300tvs, a 2650tvs or larger whipple will make that power no problem. but ******* crank snout - stock crank even worse. belt slip 10+rib needed

procharger, install pretty easy would need f1+ trim to get there i think, but i dont know prochargers very well. also ******* snout and belt slip etc

/\ both need big headers 2" primaries, crank pinned, 10rib balancer

turbos, prob cheapest but most involved t6 turbos ive used are an s480 and a 92/110, both would do around 1k and ran 10s with the 92mm pretty consistently

an assload of nitrous could prob get you there but youre talking a 500+ shot . maybe a run or two

all three need a lot of fuel, lots of ways to get there. ive used 1200cc injectors for a while with e85, big pump and stock flex pump. can use multiple in tank. up to you.

transmission probably isnt going to hold up for many 10 sec passes, converter definitely going to need to change out, with a pd blower its prob more suited to stock but stock is just going to "blow through" about 600hp. higher stall needed for decent launch with turbo/procharger

awd tcase axles etc prob fine for a while, unless rear diff is already beat then the extra hp wont help

tires, eh i think i ran nearly a 10 on some nittos just makes things easier, hp can only do so much

chassis is anything but race ready, again you can only overcome so much with horsepower
ive got coil overs adjustable shocks, adjustable sway bars, front limiting straps, 5 link bars. need to set up axle wrap and crap like that

tuning... pretty much going to suggest you learn how to tune, not many shops willing to put the effort into making one of these fast and drivable


all three are going to benefit from correct cam for application, ported heads, cooling mods, crank case ventilation, ignition system is border line right there (where im at currently) you can keep gapping plugs down but at some point you need a stronger spark to make hp with smart coils.
 

Joseph Garcia

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*deep breath*
just by the numbers you need bout 900+whp. 1100ish crank.
not un heard off for sbe "ls3" block and as the internet tells you making 1k is so easy, its not if you want to do anything more than tow it to the track make two passes and tow it home. shit breaks, conditions change, the magical ecm doesnt always do what you tell it to do.

how you choose to get there is up to you:

pd blower, easiest install, going to be realll hard, not impossible, but real hard with the small 1900/2300tvs, a 2650tvs or larger whipple will make that power no problem. but ******* crank snout - stock crank even worse. belt slip 10+rib needed

procharger, install pretty easy would need f1+ trim to get there i think, but i dont know prochargers very well. also ******* snout and belt slip etc

/\ both need big headers 2" primaries, crank pinned, 10rib balancer

turbos, prob cheapest but most involved t6 turbos ive used are an s480 and a 92/110, both would do around 1k and ran 10s with the 92mm pretty consistently

an assload of nitrous could prob get you there but youre talking a 500+ shot . maybe a run or two

all three need a lot of fuel, lots of ways to get there. ive used 1200cc injectors for a while with e85, big pump and stock flex pump. can use multiple in tank. up to you.

transmission probably isnt going to hold up for many 10 sec passes, converter definitely going to need to change out, with a pd blower its prob more suited to stock but stock is just going to "blow through" about 600hp. higher stall needed for decent launch with turbo/procharger

awd tcase axles etc prob fine for a while, unless rear diff is already beat then the extra hp wont help

tires, eh i think i ran nearly a 10 on some nittos just makes things easier, hp can only do so much

chassis is anything but race ready, again you can only overcome so much with horsepower
ive got coil overs adjustable shocks, adjustable sway bars, front limiting straps, 5 link bars. need to set up axle wrap and crap like that

tuning... pretty much going to suggest you learn how to tune, not many shops willing to put the effort into making one of these fast and drivable


all three are going to benefit from correct cam for application, ported heads, cooling mods, crank case ventilation, ignition system is border line right there (where im at currently) you can keep gapping plugs down but at some point you need a stronger spark to make hp with smart coils.
@randeez Thank you for laying out the 3 options and the associated all-encompassing skeleton outlines of things to consider for each, bumper to bumper. The knowledge of folks on this Forum continues to amaze me.
 

avalonandl

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5600 lb SUV and you want to get close to 10's....

A maggie/whipple installed is about 7-8 k installed and about 120 hp....Long way from 8-900 HP.....

Your ambitious....
 

ivin74

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Hello everyone Im new to the forum. I have a 2007 GMC Yukon Denali that I would to build it into a sleeper what I don’t know where to start. Does anyone have any suggestions.
I see posts like this all the time and only 1% of the time the OP will actually get things done. Watch this be another one of those treads, lol
 

67RS427

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Not sure if the OP is serious about this build and 10 second goal but I can tell you it is possible for sure if you have the will and power (money too lol)... Probably an easy $15-$20k if you do most of the work yourself. Easily $10k into the motor build, a solid $5k into the 6L80 build, maybe $7k if you count a good Circle D converter and a second rebuild after you blow it from learning from your mistakes. The guys here are about right that you will need about 800-1,000hp at the crank to achieve your 10 second goal which is what I did as well.

Like the others have said, we need to know if you are doing the work yourself or paying a shop as that makes a big difference. If you can R & R a transmission and the engine, it would save you a ton of money that can be dumped into other things like fuel system and suspension. Lots of help around here if you know what questions to ask and answer some of the ones posted already.

Happy New Year everyone! I'm still around and will hopefully get some content up soon...
 

ivin74

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Not sure if the OP is serious about this build and 10 second goal but I can tell you it is possible for sure if you have the will and power (money too lol)... Probably an easy $15-$20k if you do most of the work yourself. Easily $10k into the motor build, a solid $5k into the 6L80 build, maybe $7k if you count a good Circle D converter and a second rebuild after you blow it from learning from your mistakes. The guys here are about right that you will need about 800-1,000hp at the crank to achieve your 10 second goal which is what I did as well.

Like the others have said, we need to know if you are doing the work yourself or paying a shop as that makes a big difference. If you can R & R a transmission and the engine, it would save you a ton of money that can be dumped into other things like fuel system and suspension. Lots of help around here if you know what questions to ask and answer some of the ones posted already.

Happy New Year everyone! I'm still around and will hopefully get some content up soon...
You hit the nail on the head.
 

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