Oil leak. Not rear main

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

donjetman

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2018
Posts
1,362
Reaction score
2,356
Have a 2007 yukon denali 6.2 liter. Have an oil leak that isn't the rear main seal. Trying to figure out where it could be coming from. Oil drips off of the oil filter but the filter is tight. 2 pictures kind of show you where it's wet on drivers side. Thanks
5+ yrs and 63K miles ago I DIY:
Performed GM TSB 10-06-01-008M, and used Gunk Motor Medic $5 to do the piston combustion chamber soak
GM updated valve cover driverside – GM# 12570427 - $117
Oil pan gasket – GM# 12612350 - $36
Oil pickup o-ring – Felpro 72401 or GM 12584922 - $9
Torque Converter – P4646 (gopnh.com) Precision- $218
Tranny front pump seal – GM# 24237531 - $30
Tranny Input shaft seal – GM# 24219390 - $10
AFM Deflector – gm#12639759 - $8
Trans cooler line 1 – ACDelco 15779543 - $16
Trans cooler lines 2 – ACDelco 25999420 - $56
Trans cooler clips- ACDelco# 24205103 - $10
Trans cooler gasket - $7
Front lower plastic cowl - $31
Starter – 6757N - $60
Alternator (160 amp) – 8301N - $108
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/rear-main-seal-job-pan-etc-07-yukon-denali-6-2.108334/
Still going strong now w/193k miles
 
Last edited:

j91z28d1

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2022
Posts
1,934
Reaction score
2,219
5+ yrs and 63K miles ago I DIY:
Performed GM TSB 10-06-01-008M, and used Gunk Motor Medic $5 to do the piston combustion chamber soak
VGM updated valve cover driverside – GM# 12570427 - $117
Oil pan gasket – GM# 12612350 - $36
Oil pickup o-ring – Felpro 72401 or GM 12584922 - $9
Torque Converter – P4646 (gopnh.com) Precision- $218
Tranny front pump seal – GM# 24237531 - $30
Tranny Input shaft seal – GM# 24219390 - $10
AFM Deflector – gm#12639759 - $8
Trans cooler line 1 – ACDelco 15779543 - $16
Trans cooler lines 2 – ACDelco 25999420 - $56
Trans cooler clips- ACDelco# 24205103 - $10
Trans cooler gasket - $7
Front lower plastic cowl - $31
Starter – 6757N - $60
Alternator (160 amp) – 8301N - $108
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/rear-main-seal-job-pan-etc-07-yukon-denali-6-2.108334/
Still going strong now w/193k miles


the afm deflector, I probably have to do a pan gasket soon is why I ask. but you don't have afm active right? why the deflector vs plugging the port off. feels like plugging it would be best to avoid it ever getting stuck on bypass?
 

donjetman

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2018
Posts
1,362
Reaction score
2,356
the afm deflector, I probably have to do a pan gasket soon is why I ask. but you don't have afm active right? why the deflector vs plugging the port off. feels like plugging it would be best to avoid it ever getting stuck on bypass?
Because that is what the TSB said to do.
 

j91z28d1

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2022
Posts
1,934
Reaction score
2,219
Because that is what the TSB said to do.


hmm I was kinda hoping you had put some research into it.

my afm is bypassed and blocked so no worry about pressure spikes from plugging the bypass there, but vvt is still active and I really don't wanna deal with damaging that. I searched around and nothing I could find about it being sensitive to pressure like the afm.

so I don't know if I should plug it, leave it alone and hope it never sticks open or maybe replace it. mine being a different oil pump even the min oil pressure spec is 20psi higher than a normal truck.

huh. I feel like I answered my own question while typing. Just replace it with a new oem one while in there just incase and hope it's good for another 100k
 

Geotrash

Dave
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2018
Posts
5,565
Reaction score
13,214
Location
Richmond, VA
hmm I was kinda hoping you had put some research into it.

my afm is bypassed and blocked so no worry about pressure spikes from plugging the bypass there, but vvt is still active and I really don't wanna deal with damaging that. I searched around and nothing I could find about it being sensitive to pressure like the afm.

so I don't know if I should plug it, leave it alone and hope it never sticks open or maybe replace it. mine being a different oil pump even the min oil pressure spec is 20psi higher than a normal truck.

huh. I feel like I answered my own question while typing. Just replace it with a new oem one while in there just incase and hope it's good for another 100k
Given that there are many of these trucks running around with 300K+ on the original relief valve, I wasn't worried about it as a failure item when I did my cam swap and dropped the oil pan in the process. I replaced the original valve with a new one (being a 2012, it already had the deflector), reckoning I'd never need to worry about it for the remaining life of the truck.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
129,146
Posts
1,811,168
Members
92,239
Latest member
Fundamntl_Force
Top