OBD2 / CAN adapter

[krbjmpr]

I dont use a splitter.

It does stay plugged in except when have to get inspected. Tried to use a splitter then, and was advised was a no-no.

I used a single MX on an F150 for a few years, never a problem. When was driving a Camry, found a cabled elm27 or similar worked great.

Since bought my Yukon, it tears up MX+. I have had the thought that when alternator does its "high charge" of 14.7 to 14.9, if that might be tearing something up. To combat, I have kicked around the idea of using a buck converter to under hood fusebox. That is, until I saw price tag of one that can support halogen headlights, engine fan, AC fan, windows, rear ac fan, etc. Yukon is stock SLT.

Debating on LFP batteries after a Big 5 upgrade. Would need to knock down alternator peak volts. If my target LFP charge termination is 3.45 per cell, then max out on alternator should be 13.8, 14vdc tops. Maybe that would resolve burning up MX+ as well.

I did hear back from OBDLink today. Engineer is going to see what results from previous one I sent in were. But, he does indicate that it appears firmware is pooched, and firmware recovery sees adapter, but can't go any further.

 

[gooffeyguy]

good stuff.. yeah I see they say it powers down, I don't know. Just seems like if he's killing them, and it's easy to do. I'd just make the obd2 port switched. mine is like that. no worries when I forget to unplug stuff.

I don't know how you guys can have two things plugged in at once. I never can. if I use the splitter one of the other gets glitches data and faults out. I end up using my splitter use as a right angle extender cable.

weird.

It may be the splitter. I'm sure they're all not created equal. This is the one I use. Says guaranteed to work with all aftermarket devices and OBD scan tools.

I've left my AutoSync plugged in and just unplugged the MX+ from the under dash port when I take it in to get emissions inspection and haven't had a problem.

OBD port splitter cable

High quality custom OBD port splitter cable 100% guaranteed to work with all aftermarket devices and OBD scan tools. Unlike most OBD splitter cables, our OBD splitter offers a clean install due to the fact that it replaces/bolts in place of your existing OBD port, allowing the secondary tap to...

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[j91z28d1]

It may be the splitter. I'm sure they're all not created equal. This is the one I use. Says guaranteed to work with all aftermarket devices and OBD scan tools.

I've left my AutoSync plugged in and just unplugged the MX+ from the under dash port when I take it in to get emissions inspection and haven't had a problem.

OBD port splitter cable

High quality custom OBD port splitter cable 100% guaranteed to work with all aftermarket devices and OBD scan tools. Unlike most OBD splitter cables, our OBD splitter offers a clean install due to the fact that it replaces/bolts in place of your existing OBD port, allowing the secondary tap to...

www.btdieselworks.com

I might have to pick one up and try it.

 

[j91z28d1]

I dont use a splitter.

It does stay plugged in except when have to get inspected. Tried to use a splitter then, and was advised was a no-no.

I used a single MX on an F150 for a few years, never a problem. When was driving a Camry, found a cabled elm27 or similar worked great.

Since bought my Yukon, it tears up MX+. I have had the thought that when alternator does its "high charge" of 14.7 to 14.9, if that might be tearing something up. To combat, I have kicked around the idea of using a buck converter to under hood fusebox. That is, until I saw price tag of one that can support halogen headlights, engine fan, AC fan, windows, rear ac fan, etc. Yukon is stock SLT.

Debating on LFP batteries after a Big 5 upgrade. Would need to knock down alternator peak volts. If my target LFP charge termination is 3.45 per cell, then max out on alternator should be 13.8, 14vdc tops. Maybe that would resolve burning up MX+ as well.

I did hear back from OBDLink today. Engineer is going to see what results from previous one I sent in were. But, he does indicate that it appears firmware is pooched, and firmware recovery sees adapter, but can't go any further.

you atl voltage is adjustable with a frequency box. it's done on motor swaps where the ecm doesn't control it. little 10$ box on ebay you wire into the 2 wire connector.

most likely you can turn the fault code off with hptuners in the ecm and you'll be good.

then again hpt will let you adjust the alt control. I have hpt but not one of these trucks to check myself. mine doesn't have an alt but I read you can. not sure you can flat line the voltage thou.

 

[krbjmpr]

Wasnt able to find what you mentioned. Do you have a link to such device?

HPTuner would be nice, but need to address issue of failing adapter first.

OBDLink has offered an OBDLink EX, but it doesnt do SW-CAN and I declined. The *EX is cabled, not BT.

Still looking for cabled solution to support SWCan, and MSCan (for my Ford when project is complete).

 

[j91z28d1]

all the info is in here.

2 pin 2006 + alternator. Don't throw it away!! - LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion

Conversions & Swaps - 2 pin 2006 + alternator. Don't throw it away!! - I just swapped the regulator in my alternator from 4 pin to 2 pin, so now it's like a 2006 or newer alternator. Why??? Because GM thinks it's better than the older 4 pin one and they must know something. Oh but everyone says...

ls1tech.com

multi ways to do it but cheapest being ebay.. best being adjust the ecm.

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[krbjmpr]

Ordered one and received yesterday.
Just got busy with work, will have to wait to play.

We're you using 5vdc or battery voltage? Read up more about the CS alternators, models go both ways. Probably will put my fluke on existing oem harness and see what average and peak voltage to alternator is. Can also determine duty cycle output via ecm as well.

 

[j91z28d1]

Ordered one and received yesterday.
Just got busy with work, will have to wait to play.

We're you using 5vdc or battery voltage? Read up more about the CS alternators, models go both ways. Probably will put my fluke on existing oem harness and see what average and peak voltage to alternator is. Can also determine duty cycle output via ecm as well.

bit of a long story, my yukon doesn't actually have a alternator, it runs off an big old inverter off the hybrid battery pack. 300v to the tranny and ac, 42v to the power steering and 12v for everything else.
I used the 220amp new style alternator on my c6 corvette. they have the old style non pwm control output. Just a wire to reference battery voltage. but it's a crap alternator and can't keep up with stock loads. these new ones are like double the power, but even with hptuners I couldn't get the e38 ecm to control it correctly, so that's why I went down the road of the box to control the voltage. since I have hpt, if I had a normal truck I'd just adjust the ecm settings.

these alternators default to like 13.7v and during the swap I redid all the power wires, moving most of the heavy loads, like cooling fans straight to the alt lug(60amp fused). that and some upgraded ground cable size gave me only a tenth or so drop from battery terminals to alt lug. so I honestly need to get the frequency box wired in, but just haven't done it yet. there's a way to do it cleanly off 12v end output that used to activate the alt but I need get to the ecm wiring to hook it in there and the damn ecm is in behind the fender on those cars. since I don't daily drive it and it's solid voltage wise as is, even loaded over 100 amps at idle with an under drive crank pulley, my motivation has been lacking haha. I'll get to it thou, it's on my list of loose ends to tie up. since I run a agm battery in that car it will be nice to adjust the voltage to.

the pwm hz in to voltage out is in that first thread and it seemed be correct. I could force my ecm to output the freq and the voltage was very close. I just couldn't get it to it on its own, so need to use the box to adjust.