New owner 2017 XL Denali

[Tagger101]

Hi all, picked up my ‘17 XL Denali with <90k on the odometer last week. I have two big questions I’m hoping you can help with:

1.) I find the suspension a bit rough (not sure if I have the mag ride or not). Is there a tried and true replacement to smooth out the ride? I’d rather the car not slam over every bump, especially with my newborn twins in the back. Would also like to keep the stock ride height.

2.) I’ve heard everyone rave about the DoD delete. I looked into it, but can’t find any shop around me (Hudson Valley NY) willing to do it because of EPA crackdowns. Any suggestions on how to do this myself, or possibly any recommended shops to take it to?

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Post a photo of your RPO code sticker, so that we can confirm which suspension you have. It is most likely the Magneride suspension. These shocks ride real hard when they fail, so you may have a shock failure.

Regarding the AFM delete, you can purchase an OBDII adapter that will disable (electronically) the AFM operation for very little money. The physical AFM parts will still exist in the motor, but the dongle is a great first step.

Do you have, or have access to, a quality bi-directional scanner? If not, I recommend that you get yourself a quality bi-directional scanner to add to your tool box. Then, you will be able to read ALL trouble codes, along with a brief explanation/pointer to the source of your issue. You can test many of the truck's electronic functions with the scanner, in order to determine the source of an issue. You will also be able to reset/delete trouble codes, after taking corrective action. You will literally save thousands of dollars in diagnostic and repair costs over the life of your truck, and you will most likely recoup the cost of the scanner within 1 year.

 

[Tagger101]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Post a photo of your RPO code sticker, so that we can confirm which suspension you have. It is most likely the Magneride suspension. These shocks ride real hard when they fail, so you may have a shock failure.

Regarding the AFM delete, you can purchase an OBDII adapter that will disable (electronically) the AFM operation for very little money. The physical AFM parts will still exist in the motor, but the dongle is a great first step.

Do you have, or have access to, a quality bi-directional scanner? If not, I recommend that you get yourself a quality bi-directional scanner to add to your tool box. Then, you will be able to read ALL trouble codes, along with a brief explanation/pointer to the source of your issue. You can test many of the truck's electronic functions with the scanner, in order to determine the source of an issue. You will also be able to reset/delete trouble codes, after taking corrective action. You will literally save thousands of dollars in diagnostic and repair costs over the life of your truck, and you will most likely recoup the cost of the scanner within 1 year.

Hi Joseph, thanks for your reply.

For some reason I haven’t been able to scan either RPO code with my iPhone 14, but I’ve attached pictures here.


Could you elaborate on the process for the OBDII method? This sounds very promising, but I’m not sure where to look to purchase one/how to disable AFM once I have the OBDII. Afterwards, would it still be necessary to physically remove the AFM parts?


I’ll look into getting a bidirectional scanner. I saw you mentioned Autel in another post. Is there additional software required? I ask because I saw someone mention an expensive subscription to GM’s GDS…

 

[Joseph Garcia]

This is a link to a video showing how to obtain the the RPO codes. Clean that sticker, if there is any dust/dirt on it, before scanning.

For the OBDII method, I'm asking @Marky Dissod to elaborate this for you, as well as give you an idea of the AFM hardware that would need to be removed to fully complete the job.

Yes, I believe there is a subscription required to update most scanning tools, but depending on the model year of your truck, as the truck ages, there is less need to update your scanner's software, as the available GM software updates to that truck will disappear. Yes, there is a subscription to GM's GDS platform, but as I remember it, a subscription for only 1 specific vehicle to this platform was quite reasonable.

 

[Marky Dissod]

I’ve heard everyone rave about the DoD delete. I looked into it, but can’t find any shop around me (Hudson Valley NY) willing to do it because of EPA crackdowns.
Any suggestions on how to do this myself, or possibly any recommended shops to take it to?

Regarding the AFM delete, you can purchase an OBDII adapter that will disable (electronically) the AFM operation for very little money.
The physical AFM parts will still exist in the motor, but the dongle is a great first step.

Could you elaborate on the process for the OBDII method?
This sounds very promising, but I’m not sure where to look to purchase one/how to disable AFM once I have the OBDII.
Afterwards, would it still be necessary to physically remove the AFM parts?

For the OBDII method, I'm asking @Marky Dissod to elaborate this for you,
as well as give you an idea of the AFM hardware that would need to be removed to fully complete the job.

1st things 1st:
Disable - permanently deactivating the feature, leaving the physical hardware behind, like an appendix.
and
Delete - like an appendectomy, permanently removing the feature's hardware.
are two different words with two very different meanings. Please, let's not mix them up.

No mech shop with a gov't approved license will traceably advertise that they DELETE federally installed emissions equipment. HOWEVER
Engine Half@$$ is not emissions equipment, per se. HOWEVER
Before you DELETE Engine Half@$$, you must first DISABLE the feature.

Vast majority of mech shops do not ALSO do the ecm tuning services required to DISABLE Engine Half@$$
largely because engine & transmission tuning is almost as complicated as running a business or becoming a mechanic.
Mech shops and tuners have been evolving separately for the past 40 years, and both fields have only gotten more in-depth & complicated,
so finding a mechanic shop that also has any tuning services is like finding hen's teeth.

Long story short, find a tuner to disable the feature FIRST, THEN find the mech shop that will delete the feature's hardware.
If you'd been more specific than 'Hudson Valley NY', I'd know if pcmperformance was close enough to you (Brooklyn / Queens).

As a stopgap, though, feel free to find a highly recommended 'plug-in' that will DISABLE Engine Half@$$ until you find a tuner you'll consider driving to,
then that'll give you more time to find the mech shop that'll delete Engine Half@$$ permanently.
Some mech shops, by the way, will delete, but will not order the parts or warranty the work,
so, someone else here will have to cough up parts info.

Did that help?

 

[Joseph Garcia]

1st things 1st:
Disable - permanently deactivating the feature, leaving the physical hardware behind, like an appendix.
and
Delete - like an appendectomy, permanently removing the feature's hardware.
are two different words with two very different meanings. Please, let's not mix them up.

No mech shop with a gov't approved license will traceably advertise that they DELETE federally installed emissions equipment. HOWEVER
Engine Half@$$ is not emissions equipment, per se. HOWEVER
Before you DELETE Engine Half@$$, you must first DISABLE the feature.

Vast majority of mech shops do not ALSO do the ecm tuning services required to DISABLE Engine Half@$$
largely because engine & transmission tuning is almost as complicated as running a business or becoming a mechanic.
Mech shops and tuners have been evolving separately for the past 40 years, and both fields have only gotten more in-depth & complicated,
so finding a mechanic shop that also has any tuning services is like finding hen's teeth.

Long story short, find a tuner to disable the feature FIRST, THEN find the mech shop that will delete the feature's hardware.
If you'd been more specific than 'Hudson Valley NY', I'd know if pcmperformance was close enough to you (Brooklyn / Queens).

As a stopgap, though, feel free to find a highly recommended 'plug-in' that will DISABLE Engine Half@$$ until you find a tuner you'll consider driving to,
then that'll give you more time to find the mech shop that'll delete Engine Half@$$ permanently.
Some mech shops, by the way, will delete, but will not order the parts or warranty the work,
so, someone else here will have to cough up parts info.

Did that help?

Thanks @Marky Dissod . A GREAT detailed explanation and recommendation.

 

[Tagger101]

1st things 1st:
Disable - permanently deactivating the feature, leaving the physical hardware behind, like an appendix.
and
Delete - like an appendectomy, permanently removing the feature's hardware.
are two different words with two very different meanings. Please, let's not mix them up.

No mech shop with a gov't approved license will traceably advertise that they DELETE federally installed emissions equipment. HOWEVER
Engine Half@$$ is not emissions equipment, per se. HOWEVER
Before you DELETE Engine Half@$$, you must first DISABLE the feature.

Vast majority of mech shops do not ALSO do the ecm tuning services required to DISABLE Engine Half@$$
largely because engine & transmission tuning is almost as complicated as running a business or becoming a mechanic.
Mech shops and tuners have been evolving separately for the past 40 years, and both fields have only gotten more in-depth & complicated,
so finding a mechanic shop that also has any tuning services is like finding hen's teeth.

Long story short, find a tuner to disable the feature FIRST, THEN find the mech shop that will delete the feature's hardware.
If you'd been more specific than 'Hudson Valley NY', I'd know if pcmperformance was close enough to you (Brooklyn / Queens).

As a stopgap, though, feel free to find a highly recommended 'plug-in' that will DISABLE Engine Half@$$ until you find a tuner you'll consider driving to,
then that'll give you more time to find the mech shop that'll delete Engine Half@$$ permanently.
Some mech shops, by the way, will delete, but will not order the parts or warranty the work,
so, someone else here will have to cough up parts info.

Did that help?

Sorry for the late reply, taking care of my newborn twins while also getting things done with my new truck lol.

Thanks very much for the detailed write up. So it’s not advised to only disable the AFM system? The delete afterwards is also necessary? Out of curiosity, what would happen if I disabled it through an hp tuner mpvi and just left the physical hardware in?

I’m in Orange County NY, and sadly haven’t found a nearby shop willing to do a delete. I did find someone in TX willing to do a remote disable though, which is a start. Planning on disabling and doing an oil change with 5-30 instead, hoping that’ll help the life of the engine for a bit…

 

[Marky Dissod]

So it’s not advised to only disable the AFM system? The delete afterwards is also necessary?
Out of curiosity, what would happen if I disabled it through an hp tuner mpvi and just left the physical hardware in?

By all means, do what you can afford to do, when you can afford to do it.
Sooner you disable Engine Half@$$, the better. Sooner you delete Engine Half@$$, the better.
Tend to recommend Valvoline Restore & Protect 5W30 every 5000 miles or less. The cleaner the engine, the better.