My LED Lighting Project (2009 Yukon XL)

[agupta3224]

This project is three fold.

1. Add LED lighting to the running boards and under the rear bumper as Approach and Exit Lighting.​

2. Add LED lighting to foot wells and under the doors.​

a. Also add accent LED lights to doors.​

3. Add DL3 mirrors without changing any window switches. (This has been discussed in many threads in forums so I will just post pictures when done of my setup unless someone requests a write up).​

I will write this as I progress and if there is more interest.

1.

The outside lighting is a bit tricky. But here is the theory behind how I thought it would work. I grabbed three power sources (dome lighting, Accessory and Always on Battery Power). First things first, these lights are being powered by the Battery Power. We need a way to shut them off after a certain time and also make sure they never come on when the truck is on or is being driven.

I accomplished this by using two relays. Relay one is charged when the dome light is on and Relay two is charged when the Accessory Power is on (i.e. when the key is in I or II position). The difference is that relay one is a NO relay (normally open) and relay two is NC (Normally closed). The power goes from MBEC to Relay One, then to Relay Two and then to the outside lights. Whenever the Dome Light Turns on and the key is not in I or II position, the outside lights will turn on (Relay One will close since it being charged and Relay Two is always close). Once the key is switched to I or II position the outside lights will turn off (Relay Two is now open, stopping the flow of current to the outside). They will also turn off when the dome turns off (Relay One is now open). The advantage to this setup is, when driving if the dome is turned on the outside lights will stay off.

MBEC: Pinouts.

X9: Pin 8 is Dome Lighting. This is marked Courtesy Lights and is the Gray Wire.

X14: Pin 1 is Ground. Pin 2 is 15A Battery Out (always Hot). Pin 7 is Accessory (Switched Power)

Please pardon the crude diagrams and my writing.

Two relays mounted on the right side. Under the fuse panel cover.

Cannot really see the brightness, but it is very functional. I will post better pictures later.

So far that is all I have done. There is a lot of prep work involved as well.

Before anyone asks, I got the LEDs from a Building Sign. A shop sign fell off and the owner was going to throw it away. I happen to pass by and asked the owner if I could take it, and he said yes. So the LEDs are prewired for 12V and are commercial grade (Made in USA).

One more thing. I am using a lot of wire, so I bought a Trailer Wiring Package from Harbor Freight. There are 5 different color 14 gauge wire and each measures 25 feet. Comes with some Wire taps and wire nuts as well.

 

[yugrus]

Why did you not go with just one relay that is powered by the dome light (X9 P8)? It goes out when the engine is started anyway?
The dome light has a reverse dimmer, where it gradually builds up voltage at lights via pulse modulation. Does your first relay not making an awful rattle when the lights go on?

 

[agupta3224]

Why did you not go with just one relay that is powered by the dome light (X9 P8)? It goes out when the engine is started anyway?
The dome light has a reverse dimmer, where it gradually builds up voltage at lights via pulse modulation. Does your first relay not making an awful rattle when the lights go on?

Hello,

The reason for the second relay was to make sure that the lights outside do not turn ON when the dome is on and the SUV is running. I like the dimming effect but I do have little kids and they do drop stuff and hear.... "Papa, PLease turn on the light." So if I turn on the light and I am driving, I do not want the outside lights turned on.

 

[yugrus]

When you turn individual light on in the cabin, it has no effect on X9 junction... Turn it on as much as you want, your puddle lights will not do the same.
So, does your relay make a rattle?

Sent from my VIVO XL using Tapatalk

 

[agupta3224]

Got a little bit more done.

I was able to install accent leds in one of the door panels.
When I ordered the LED the light was quite focused. To scatter/diffuse the light I sanded the LEDs using a Rotary Tool. Washed the sanded LEDs in running water and dried. You will see that I used a black marker on half LED. This hald will be pointed outwards. So if I am driving I really do not want to see the LED in the Passenger door.

Once again my apologioes, this project is very slow.

Inside of the door. The leds are 5mm, which is 13/64 drill bit. This is not wired yet but the lighting is supposed to be accent only.

These are the leds from the outside.

Red Circle - Original LED
Yellow - Sanded LED
Blue and Black - Colored with Marker

Also got a dimmer with a remote control. Ebay ($3). 10% brightness is the best accent when lit.
As I said I am not trying to overwhelm the inside, just a little blue accent.

Comment as you see fit. I appreciate all feedback.

 

[agupta3224]

When you turn individual light on in the cabin, it has no effect on X9 junction... Turn it on as much as you want, your puddle lights will not do the same.
So, does your relay make a rattle?

Sent from my VIVO XL using Tapatalk

I did not know that. No there is no rattle on the relay. It is good to know. When I was testing it I was able to turn the X9 junction off and on with the dome switch. So I was thinking that X9 turns on whenever the dome is on.

 

[yugrus]

When I was testing my puddle light prototype, similar to yours in terms of LED placement, the straight relay hooked to X9 was rattling, which was expected given the nature of the gradual voltage build-up in the dome light. So I went with common collector cirquit with power transistor that is fed from the constant power source and controlled by the dome light power at X9. That gave me the gradual build-up of light in foot wells and outside at puddle lights. This arrangement has a draw - back of somewhat reduced voltage at LEDs, so they are not as bright as they should be, although plenty bright. Next iteration is a voltage comparator that kicks in when the dome light is fully powered by the BCM. Next spring, I guess...
Use individual switches for dome lights on the go, X9 will not be affected.

 

[agupta3224]

When I was testing my puddle light prototype, similar to yours in terms of LED placement, the straight relay hooked to X9 was rattling, which was expected given the nature of the gradual voltage build-up in the dome light. So I went with common collector cirquit with power transistor that is fed from the constant power source and controlled by the dome light power at X9. That gave me the gradual build-up of light in foot wells and outside at puddle lights. This arrangement has a draw - back of somewhat reduced voltage at LEDs, so they are not as bright as they should be, although plenty bright. Next iteration is a voltage comparator that kicks in when the dome light is fully powered by the BCM. Next spring, I guess...
Use individual switches for dome lights on the go, X9 will not be affected.

Thank you. I will keep that in mind. As far as I have tested it, just the footwell lighting, it dims off with the dome lights. I did not hear any rattle. When I tested the outside lighting, it worked fine as well. I will try to listen more next time I power it up. I am trying not to put too much draw on X9. So I am keeping the inside only on X9. I have already converted all the interior lights to LEDs so there should not be a big draw. This is a big project, I am also converting my DL8 to DL3 as well. I did not buy any switches for that conversion. I will install my own switches, realys and timers. Hopefully it will work good.

 

[agupta3224]

Here is the Accent lighting. It is at 10% brightness.

Here it is at 25% brightness.

The pictures do not do justice. It looks much nicer actually.

Once again the idea is accenting not to overwhelm.
With the remote, I could increase the brightness to the level I want.
Once again comments are welcome.

 

[ddubdb3]

Nice write up!! Your doing the same exact project I'm doing as well. So far I've just added puddle lights and footwell lights. The Opt 7 footwell led kit I highly suggest looking into. For my puddle lights I just tapped into the dome lights down under the dash so the lights gradually dim out same as the dome lights and keeps the install simple.

 

[agupta3224]

Nice write up!! Your doing the same exact project I'm doing as well. So far I've just added puddle lights and footwell lights. The Opt 7 footwell led kit I highly suggest looking into. For my puddle lights I just tapped into the dome lights down under the dash so the lights gradually dim out same as the dome lights and keeps the install simple.

Thank you.

Your SUV looks really nice. I am actually trying to keep it more functional (wife likes it better with just simple white LEDs and I am trying not to sleep on the couch ).

How did you run the wire from the inside to outside?

 

[agupta3224]

Alright. I have finally finished the project. Pictures are attached. Let me know what you guys think. I am not going to upload any of the LED Interior Lighting unless someone requests.

This is the footwell accent lighting. In this pic the light is about 75% brightness. But I keep it reduced to about 10.

These are the mirror switches. I opted to go for two momentary switches rather than one for two reasons. 1. I am more comfortable drilling round holes and 2. I wanted them top be lighted.

Here are the additions to the door. I added Lights under all four doors and just for fun also added lights in the red marker in the front door.

Here is the major departure from my original plan. Originally the outside lighting was to be tied to the dome circuit. Since the dome circuit builds power slowly and dims out, I was getting noises from the relays. So rather than tying it to dome lighting I tied it to the Exit and Approach lighting. Simple fact, parking lamps are powered for 20 to 30 seconds on unlocking. So I tied the under board lighting to that (Left Arrow, Fuse 26 Right Parking). To keep the under lighting from coming in during normal operations, I tapped in to Fuse 43 (Right Arrow) to keep the relay open when the Ignition is on. All wires run from the front to underneath thru the outside. No need to tap or drill thru the body.

Here you can see the result of the lighting Left and Rear. A side not is this. The rear bumper lighting is an independent run all the way to the engine compartment at is attached to 5 amp fuse. We do go to the lake some times and the truck does get submerged. Hopefully it will only that 5 amp fuse if it shorts. But these lights are packed with silicone and I am not expecting any shorts. (Fingers Crossed)

So that is the end of the project for now.

Once I put everything together and was taking pictures, I realized that the Glove Compartment has no light. Seriously, no light on a 50K truck. Anyways, I will see if I can add one easily.

I really would like some input of what your ideas are. I do thrive on criticism.

 

[yugrus]

Great job, nice project, thank you for the write-up!
There are some drawbacks with this wiring solution. You don't get puddle lights on approach with remote start and while exiting with engine running. However, the idea of keeping all the wiring on the outside is tempting.
I calculated some time ago that if you change all interior lights to LEDs, the spare capacity should be enough for BCM's dimmer to handle outside LEDs as well. At least I remember I did. Will check again soon...

 

[agupta3224]

Great job, nice project, thank you for the write-up!
There are some drawbacks with this wiring solution. You don't get puddle lights on approach with remote start and while exiting with engine running. However, the idea of keeping all the wiring on the outside is tempting.
I calculated some time ago that if you change all interior lights to LEDs, the spare capacity should be enough for BCM's dimmer to handle outside LEDs as well. At least I remember I did. Will check again soon...

Thanks for the complement. The DL3 mirrors I bought were from A GMC Sierra. They had no puddle light connection. I racked my brain looking for the Orange/White Striped wire on Pin 3 on the white connector and there was none. So the approach is with remote start is a problem but since the door has lights underneath the exit is not a problem.

I am sure with the LED on the inside there is enough Amps left to power the outside.

You have given me something to think about. Perhaps I can add a wire to pin three and add puddles on the mirror for that purpose. Or may be I can figure out the Remote Start System and see if there is a way to wire thru there.

THanks again.

 

[agupta3224]

Hello again. I think I have now resolved the issue that @yugrus mentioned. With remote start there is no puddle lighting. Take a look at the circuit I installed. This is giving me about 7 seconds of Running Board Lighting with Remote Start. I am going to order a better Timer Relay so I can adjust the time to about 20 seconds or so.

Drawbacks:
1. Still no Running Board Lighting with the Engine On and Door Opne. (Already resolved with the installed door lights.
2. The Running Board Lights will come on for about 7 seconds (or maybe 20 or 30 seconds) once the key is moved to II position. (I am ok with that since the car is on, and also will be courteous to passengers).

Once again your criticism is welcome.

I tried my best to make the picture explainatory, but if you have questions just ask. Also it shows the timer relay I am using. Had it sitting in the house, cost around $5. The new one I am looking at is around $10 or so.

 

[yugrus]

Then again, you can use the same timer instead of the relay that was connected to the dimmer in your original desingn. To delay the relay activation till after the dome lights are fully lit. This way no relay buzzing and full replication of the interior lighting functionality at running boards, but involves interior-to-exterior wiring...

 

[agupta3224]

Then again, you can use the same timer instead of the relay that was connected to the dimmer in your original desingn. To delay the relay activation till after the dome lights are fully lit. This way no relay buzzing and full replication of the interior lighting functionality at running boards, but involves interior-to-exterior wiring...

Nice thought. I did not try that, first I did not think of it and it would still require inside outside wiring. May be one day I will give it a try. Right now I am just glad it is done. I do really appreciate your insights.

 

[bigrhino]

How did you install the lighting underneath your running boards, etc?

 

[Ob1hybrid]

Alright. I have finally finished the project. Pictures are attached. Let me know what you guys think. I am not going to upload any of the LED Interior Lighting unless someone requests.

This is the footwell accent lighting. In this pic the light is about 75% brightness. But I keep it reduced to about 10.
View attachment 71575

These are the mirror switches. I opted to go for two momentary switches rather than one for two reasons. 1. I am more comfortable drilling round holes and 2. I wanted them top be lighted.
View attachment 71577

Here are the additions to the door. I added Lights under all four doors and just for fun also added lights in the red marker in the front door.
View attachment 71579

Here is the major departure from my original plan. Originally the outside lighting was to be tied to the dome circuit. Since the dome circuit builds power slowly and dims out, I was getting noises from the relays. So rather than tying it to dome lighting I tied it to the Exit and Approach lighting. Simple fact, parking lamps are powered for 20 to 30 seconds on unlocking. So I tied the under board lighting to that (Left Arrow, Fuse 26 Right Parking). To keep the under lighting from coming in during normal operations, I tapped in to Fuse 43 (Right Arrow) to keep the relay open when the Ignition is on. All wires run from the front to underneath thru the outside. No need to tap or drill thru the body.
View attachment 71580

Here you can see the result of the lighting Left and Rear. A side not is this. The rear bumper lighting is an independent run all the way to the engine compartment at is attached to 5 amp fuse. We do go to the lake some times and the truck does get submerged. Hopefully it will only that 5 amp fuse if it shorts. But these lights are packed with silicone and I am not expecting any shorts. (Fingers Crossed)
View attachment 71581

So that is the end of the project for now.

Once I put everything together and was taking pictures, I realized that the Glove Compartment has no light. Seriously, no light on a 50K truck. Anyways, I will see if I can add one easily.

I really would like some input of what your ideas are. I do thrive on criticism.

This looks really cool. I was searching for info on changing out ALL interior and exterior bulbs to led white. Then I saw this. Love it. Love the look. Why GMC won't make it standard is beyond me. Anyhow , keep up the good work and please post as much info as possible on your build, including what you would have done different. It always happen that way lol.

 

[agupta3224]

How did you install the lighting underneath your running boards, etc?

That was supposed to be my secret. .
I just came back from a long drive. Took the family out. To me the effects looked amazing. I will post the pictures soon, within a day or two, just to make sure it shows how I put it together.
Besides I am really tired right now