My 2022 Tahoe Bose Audio Mods

[Mhale8999]

I found a pretty interesting way to improve the low end of the Bose system in my '21 Tahoe. I'm actually a little shocked that I hadn't seen someone try this angle before. I had been looking at the JL Stealthbox, but was having a really hard time separating myself from the $1,200 that they're asking for it. I love JL gear, but that's pretty aggressive for an unpowered sub and box. I did a little searching and realized that AKG has now replaced Bose as the preferred audio provider for the new-gen Escalade. Their stock package includes a 265mm (10.4") sub in the same rear compartment space as the Tahoe sub. I found the part number online and ended up pulling the trigger for $200 shipped from OEMPartsquick.com. I pulled the stock speaker from the box, filled it loosely with Polyfil (this is a standard for all of the boxed I've built) and dropped in a Fosgate Prime R2DS 10" shallow-mount woofer.

View attachment 394294 View attachment 394295 View attachment 394296

The amp is a Boss Audio Riot R1100M. I understand it's not top of the line, but it has worked perfectly for me on multiple occasions in the past. I downloaded the Stealthbox installation sheet from the JL website, namely because it gives you a step-by-step deconstruction of the panels, seat belts, etc. to get to the sub installation location in the rear of the truck. My new box dropped right in and even used the attachment bolts that were already in place. I added washers and M6x1 nut with a Teflon ring to the top two mounting points for more security.

View attachment 394297 View attachment 394298

I mounted the amp in the storage space in the rear, drilled a hole in the side, added a grommet to keep it neat/clean and wired it up. It was mounted on the right side of the space so that I would still have access to the controls on the side and not have to bend the power and ground wire in a way that would create stress on the connections. I drilled four holes and used two 1" pieces of flat bar with drilled holes to allow the plastic tray to maintain stability underneath and not pull through the plastic when it was tightened. This part was probably overkill, but it made me feel better about it. I tapped in to the rear door speaker wires for the hi/lo converter, plugged in the RCA cables and fired it up. Side note - I don't have ANC, so I was able to get around using an aftermarket harness or an LCi2. True to form, this set up blows doors, y'all. If my wife rolling her eyes means that I was successful, then I pretty much became president of the world after this one. I am beyond happy.

Sorry for being so wordy, but I tried to include everything that I would have asked in this write up. If I missed something or if you have any other questions, let me know. Have a good one!!

Subwoofer enclosure: https://www.oempartsquick.com/oem-p...UGGYnKpuucxBPFt5Yw49bNduSb7VjdQkaAsK7EALw_wcB

Amplifier: https://www.amazon.com/Watts-Mosfet-Monoblock-Amplifier-R1100M/dp/B004S4XNEO

Subwoofer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C1R9CE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Converter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAWS3W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wiring kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002VM8RU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Installation instructions: https://jlaudio.widen.net/s/v9g9c2qdms/sb_gm_5gsuv_man

I can’t tell you how helpful all of this is, thank you so much. I’m also having a hard time dropping the stealthbox cash on this project!

any rattling from the plastic piece securing the 10? Anything you would do differently now that you’ve had it a while?

 

[Mhale8999]

I recently did the JL Audio Stealthbox with 1 JL Audio XD300/1 amp for the 21 Yukon Denali. What a day and night difference. I had it done by a professional stereo shop. Had a JL Audio line output converter installed to tie everything in perfectly. Amp was mounted on the Stealthbox and all hidden. See pictures attached.

What type of JL line output converter did you use?

 

[Stonebx]

What type of JL line output converter did you use?

Not sure which one they used but which ever it was had a price of $99.00. See attached photo.

 

[Stonebx]

I found a pretty interesting way to improve the low end of the Bose system in my '21 Tahoe. I'm actually a little shocked that I hadn't seen someone try this angle before. I had been looking at the JL Stealthbox, but was having a really hard time separating myself from the $1,200 that they're asking for it. I love JL gear, but that's pretty aggressive for an unpowered sub and box. I did a little searching and realized that AKG has now replaced Bose as the preferred audio provider for the new-gen Escalade. Their stock package includes a 265mm (10.4") sub in the same rear compartment space as the Tahoe sub. I found the part number online and ended up pulling the trigger for $200 shipped from OEMPartsquick.com. I pulled the stock speaker from the box, filled it loosely with Polyfil (this is a standard for all of the boxed I've built) and dropped in a Fosgate Prime R2DS 10" shallow-mount woofer.

View attachment 394294 View attachment 394295 View attachment 394296

The amp is a Boss Audio Riot R1100M. I understand it's not top of the line, but it has worked perfectly for me on multiple occasions in the past. I downloaded the Stealthbox installation sheet from the JL website, namely because it gives you a step-by-step deconstruction of the panels, seat belts, etc. to get to the sub installation location in the rear of the truck. My new box dropped right in and even used the attachment bolts that were already in place. I added washers and M6x1 nut with a Teflon ring to the top two mounting points for more security.

View attachment 394297 View attachment 394298

I mounted the amp in the storage space in the rear, drilled a hole in the side, added a grommet to keep it neat/clean and wired it up. It was mounted on the right side of the space so that I would still have access to the controls on the side and not have to bend the power and ground wire in a way that would create stress on the connections. I drilled four holes and used two 1" pieces of flat bar with drilled holes to allow the plastic tray to maintain stability underneath and not pull through the plastic when it was tightened. This part was probably overkill, but it made me feel better about it. I tapped in to the rear door speaker wires for the hi/lo converter, plugged in the RCA cables and fired it up. Side note - I don't have ANC, so I was able to get around using an aftermarket harness or an LCi2. True to form, this set up blows doors, y'all. If my wife rolling her eyes means that I was successful, then I pretty much became president of the world after this one. I am beyond happy.

Sorry for being so wordy, but I tried to include everything that I would have asked in this write up. If I missed something or if you have any other questions, let me know. Have a good one!!

Subwoofer enclosure: https://www.oempartsquick.com/oem-p...UGGYnKpuucxBPFt5Yw49bNduSb7VjdQkaAsK7EALw_wcB

Amplifier: https://www.amazon.com/Watts-Mosfet-Monoblock-Amplifier-R1100M/dp/B004S4XNEO

Subwoofer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C1R9CE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Converter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAWS3W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wiring kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002VM8RU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Installation instructions: https://jlaudio.widen.net/s/v9g9c2qdms/sb_gm_5gsuv_man

This is amazing! You really put in some work!! So when all was said and done, did it make a huge difference or minor?

 

[Mhale8999]

I found a pretty interesting way to improve the low end of the Bose system in my '21 Tahoe. I'm actually a little shocked that I hadn't seen someone try this angle before. I had been looking at the JL Stealthbox, but was having a really hard time separating myself from the $1,200 that they're asking for it. I love JL gear, but that's pretty aggressive for an unpowered sub and box. I did a little searching and realized that AKG has now replaced Bose as the preferred audio provider for the new-gen Escalade. Their stock package includes a 265mm (10.4") sub in the same rear compartment space as the Tahoe sub. I found the part number online and ended up pulling the trigger for $200 shipped from OEMPartsquick.com. I pulled the stock speaker from the box, filled it loosely with Polyfil (this is a standard for all of the boxed I've built) and dropped in a Fosgate Prime R2DS 10" shallow-mount woofer.

View attachment 394294 View attachment 394295 View attachment 394296

The amp is a Boss Audio Riot R1100M. I understand it's not top of the line, but it has worked perfectly for me on multiple occasions in the past. I downloaded the Stealthbox installation sheet from the JL website, namely because it gives you a step-by-step deconstruction of the panels, seat belts, etc. to get to the sub installation location in the rear of the truck. My new box dropped right in and even used the attachment bolts that were already in place. I added washers and M6x1 nut with a Teflon ring to the top two mounting points for more security.

View attachment 394297 View attachment 394298

I mounted the amp in the storage space in the rear, drilled a hole in the side, added a grommet to keep it neat/clean and wired it up. It was mounted on the right side of the space so that I would still have access to the controls on the side and not have to bend the power and ground wire in a way that would create stress on the connections. I drilled four holes and used two 1" pieces of flat bar with drilled holes to allow the plastic tray to maintain stability underneath and not pull through the plastic when it was tightened. This part was probably overkill, but it made me feel better about it. I tapped in to the rear door speaker wires for the hi/lo converter, plugged in the RCA cables and fired it up. Side note - I don't have ANC, so I was able to get around using an aftermarket harness or an LCi2. True to form, this set up blows doors, y'all. If my wife rolling her eyes means that I was successful, then I pretty much became president of the world after this one. I am beyond happy.

Sorry for being so wordy, but I tried to include everything that I would have asked in this write up. If I missed something or if you have any other questions, let me know. Have a good one!!

Subwoofer enclosure: https://www.oempartsquick.com/oem-p...UGGYnKpuucxBPFt5Yw49bNduSb7VjdQkaAsK7EALw_wcB

Amplifier: https://www.amazon.com/Watts-Mosfet-Monoblock-Amplifier-R1100M/dp/B004S4XNEO

Subwoofer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C1R9CE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Converter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAWS3W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wiring kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002VM8RU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Installation instructions: https://jlaudio.widen.net/s/v9g9c2qdms/sb_gm_5gsuv_man

Wow this is awesome, thanks so much! I just ordered the speaker enclosure. Do we need a 2 ohm subwoofer or a 4 ohm wired to a 2 ohm? I’m not sure how to pull the trigger on that part. Thanks again

 

[Mhale8999]

I found a pretty interesting way to improve the low end of the Bose system in my '21 Tahoe. I'm actually a little shocked that I hadn't seen someone try this angle before. I had been looking at the JL Stealthbox, but was having a really hard time separating myself from the $1,200 that they're asking for it. I love JL gear, but that's pretty aggressive for an unpowered sub and box. I did a little searching and realized that AKG has now replaced Bose as the preferred audio provider for the new-gen Escalade. Their stock package includes a 265mm (10.4") sub in the same rear compartment space as the Tahoe sub. I found the part number online and ended up pulling the trigger for $200 shipped from OEMPartsquick.com. I pulled the stock speaker from the box, filled it loosely with Polyfil (this is a standard for all of the boxed I've built) and dropped in a Fosgate Prime R2DS 10" shallow-mount woofer.

View attachment 394294 View attachment 394295 View attachment 394296

The amp is a Boss Audio Riot R1100M. I understand it's not top of the line, but it has worked perfectly for me on multiple occasions in the past. I downloaded the Stealthbox installation sheet from the JL website, namely because it gives you a step-by-step deconstruction of the panels, seat belts, etc. to get to the sub installation location in the rear of the truck. My new box dropped right in and even used the attachment bolts that were already in place. I added washers and M6x1 nut with a Teflon ring to the top two mounting points for more security.

View attachment 394297 View attachment 394298

I mounted the amp in the storage space in the rear, drilled a hole in the side, added a grommet to keep it neat/clean and wired it up. It was mounted on the right side of the space so that I would still have access to the controls on the side and not have to bend the power and ground wire in a way that would create stress on the connections. I drilled four holes and used two 1" pieces of flat bar with drilled holes to allow the plastic tray to maintain stability underneath and not pull through the plastic when it was tightened. This part was probably overkill, but it made me feel better about it. I tapped in to the rear door speaker wires for the hi/lo converter, plugged in the RCA cables and fired it up. Side note - I don't have ANC, so I was able to get around using an aftermarket harness or an LCi2. True to form, this set up blows doors, y'all. If my wife rolling her eyes means that I was successful, then I pretty much became president of the world after this one. I am beyond happy.

Sorry for being so wordy, but I tried to include everything that I would have asked in this write up. If I missed something or if you have any other questions, let me know. Have a good one!!

Subwoofer enclosure: https://www.oempartsquick.com/oem-p...UGGYnKpuucxBPFt5Yw49bNduSb7VjdQkaAsK7EALw_wcB

Amplifier: https://www.amazon.com/Watts-Mosfet-Monoblock-Amplifier-R1100M/dp/B004S4XNEO

Subwoofer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C1R9CE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Converter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAWS3W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wiring kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002VM8RU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Installation instructions: https://jlaudio.widen.net/s/v9g9c2qdms/sb_gm_5gsuv_man

Sup, Dawg. (Had to....). Yes, the enclosure for the Tahoe is different than the Esky. The below images show that the stock sub (on the left) in the Tahoe is a shade larger than a 6", while the AKG is actually a 10". The AKG box has an additional lobe (see inside the red box) that extends further over the wheel well. I wasn't able to get an exact ft3 number out of AKG, but they're not hacks. My assumption is that it's pretty close to the 0.7 ft3 of space that Fosgate calls for with the sub I used. If I was going to upgrade/add a sub, I wasn't going to do it with a 6". The fact that the Fosgate literally dropped right into the existing space of the AKG box made the 10 a no-brainer. Do I need a 10? Nope. Do I have a 10? Yep.

Stock Tahoe Sub box
View attachment 394441
Upgraded AKG Sub box
View attachment 394443

The Fosgate sub easily weighed twice what the stock sub weighs, so to say that the sound is noticeable would be a massive understatement. The Tahoe's are pretty air-tight, so what you hear on the inside is quite different than what you'll hear on the outside. Outside - you hear a slight thump. The kind that makes you look around and wonder where it's coming from. Inside is a different story. Looking in the mirrors is like having vertigo.

This is my favorite part about the whole thing....absolutely nothing to see. Zero loss of cargo (i.e., golf clubs) space.
View attachment 394445

Hope this helps!!

I just picked up my car from the car audio shop today. This plan worked perfectly, the Escalade speaker replacement, added a kicker with a kicker amp. Awesome, thanks for posting. Very helpful

 

[Bill B]

I don’t know much about the Bose system but I read somewhere, on this forum, that the input signals to the Bose amp are all digital, and that only the outputs to the speakers are analog. I would use the factory subwoofer speaker signal and feed it into either a hi/low converter, or use your new amp’s speaker level input, is so equipped. Using a single X1 cable harness might make it easier to access the wiring, unless you pull the entire rear panel off. The JL Audio package looks good. I wound up installing a single 10” subwoofer between my 2nd row seats. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Will do, thanks for the reply

 

[yukon-xl]

I found someone posted a Yukon Denali picture with the small cover removed showing the rear fuse box and portion of original bose subwoofer that is to the right of the fuse box behind the right rear panel. Attached. My OEM Bose subwoofer box that was under the center console has about 6" speaker there, and I believe the Yukon Denali rear oem bose box has a larger, like around 8" speaker. I wonder if my bose system will handle that or if I need to compare the interior volume of each box to see if Denali box is larger in volume, and install my 6" speaker with some bracket/spacer into the Denali box and also fill in the denali box to make it comparable in interior volume to my Suburban oem box... Bose website does not give out the specification of the power/wattage of the subwoofer or their interior volume.

Finally ordered the 84776627 (9" oem bose sub that comes standard in Yukon/XL Denali trim with 13 speaker system) Compared to Tahoe Premier that has 10 speaker, the additional 3 speakers are two tweeters on rear doors, and additional sub in left rear q-pannel. So 2021 Yukon Denali has 2 subs, one 6" in front under console and one 9" in the back left panel. And compared to my Yukon XL SLT/SuburbanTahoe LT/RST 9-speaker that is also missing one center front dash speaker. Anyways, I was worried that the power of my Bose oem amp for the sub channel may not be sufficient for the larger 9" Bose oem sub, but I have tested both of them by plugging one at a time and even at lower volumes the larger sub sounds better and produces more bass/lows. However, given that it will be all the way in the trunk compared to the front console location, not sure if it will be better for someone to replace it (remove/unplug the oem 6" front console sub and install oem rear 9" sub). But for me, I had to remove the front console sub to install the front jump seat (to convert it to 9 passenger), so I was missing a sub, and now will gain the sub in the rear. Very happy with adding the sub back. The Yukon XL SLE/Suburban LS trims that can come with 9 seat configuration don't even have an option for Bose system and only come with 6 speakers and no sub at all, and no speakers in 3rd row, which is pretty lame, kids in 3rd row don't get to listen... My SLT trim that I converted to 9 seats is one of a kind now!!! (will post some pics after installing it, using the JL audio link that was posted on this thread with instructions on how to remove the left rear panel helped a lot, and if I ever want to add more power, I can do that set up that is posted on this thread for adding an aftermarket sub and placing it into larger AGK oem box for more bass. But I will be good for now, way better than having no sub at all.

 

[yukon-xl]

Finally ordered the 84776627 (9" oem bose sub that comes standard in Yukon/XL Denali trim with 13 speaker system) Compared to Tahoe Premier that has 10 speaker, the additional 3 speakers are two tweeters on rear doors, and additional sub in left rear q-pannel. So 2021 Yukon Denali has 2 subs, one 6" in front under console and one 9" in the back left panel. And compared to my Yukon XL SLT/SuburbanTahoe LT/RST 9-speaker that is also missing one center front dash speaker. Anyways, I was worried that the power of my Bose oem amp for the sub channel may not be sufficient for the larger 9" Bose oem sub, but I have tested both of them by plugging one at a time and even at lower volumes the larger sub sounds better and produces more bass/lows. However, given that it will be all the way in the trunk compared to the front console location, not sure if it will be better for someone to replace it (remove/unplug the oem 6" front console sub and install oem rear 9" sub). But for me, I had to remove the front console sub to install the front jump seat (to convert it to 9 passenger), so I was missing a sub, and now will gain the sub in the rear. Very happy with adding the sub back. The Yukon XL SLE/Suburban LS trims that can come with 9 seat configuration don't even have an option for Bose system and only come with 6 speakers and no sub at all, and no speakers in 3rd row, which is pretty lame, kids in 3rd row don't get to listen... My SLT trim that I converted to 9 seats is one of a kind now!!! (will post some pics after installing it, using the JL audio link that was posted on this thread with instructions on how to remove the left rear panel helped a lot, and if I ever want to add more power, I can do that set up that is posted on this thread for adding an aftermarket sub and placing it into larger AGK oem box for more bass. But I will be good for now, way better than having no sub at all.

Some pics of my completed conversion, I had posted the details on conversion and mores pics in a different thread. 2023 Yukon XL SLT 3.0L diesel w/MaxTow pkg, 22" wheels, SLT Premium pkg.

 

[yukon-xl]

Completed the install, some final pics. Also, when I had left rear side panel removed, I noticed that the green sunroof water drain hose was not installed and was just laying there… even two clips that holds the hose along the pillar was also not pushed in. See pictures. I installed all clips and plugged the hose into the drain hole. See pics. Now just wondering if the right side has same issue…? (On my 2021 Suburban RST diesel that I sold, I had water leaking inside passenger front side during rain and had it repaired by a delaer… looks like they assemble them quick and sloppy)