Low Power after hitting a bump
- Thread starter beav626
- Start date
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bkboatnsleds
Full Access Member
yup!
---------- Post added at 09:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:11 PM ----------
I also feel like there was other ground wires (not straps) in that same general area..
---------- Post added at 09:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:11 PM ----------
I also feel like there was other ground wires (not straps) in that same general area..
beav626
Pretty Girls in your city for night
With the doors locking and unlocking I keep thinking about the ignition switch. It's unlikely that I got a bad one from the dealer. Wiggle test didn’t show anything.
Also the whole truck doesn’t lose power. My radar detector stays powered- it is tied into HVAC.
But my MPG on the DIC readout always resets when the power flash hits.
Also the whole truck doesn’t lose power. My radar detector stays powered- it is tied into HVAC.
But my MPG on the DIC readout always resets when the power flash hits.
Gzes
the drifting 2dr
If nothing works then try air ride suspension 
jk do u have remote start or keyless entry? Migh be they did a pos job. My tblazer had a keyless entry installed and It ***** with my locks. It was even done by supposed experts at audio Souce. Never will go there again
jk do u have remote start or keyless entry? Migh be they did a pos job. My tblazer had a keyless entry installed and It ***** with my locks. It was even done by supposed experts at audio Souce. Never will go there againM3PO
Full Access Member
If nothing works then try air ride suspension
Good call! My friend did my install on the Tahoe I had before, he was a pro and did clean work, but something still went wrong with the system and the truck was operating in some sort of "safe mode" it would only drive in 2nd gear until fixed. Never again for me.
beav626
Pretty Girls in your city for night
Getting gas yesterday and I looked under the hood for some reason... Saw a broken ground cable. The one going from the hood to the firewall. I know it is not important but I removed it hen I got home and I switched keys...To the older key I was using earlier in the summer. (I replaced the key when I got a new fob)
I drove around yesterday and just got back from a little road trip on Oklahoma bumpy Highway I-40.
She didn't blink once.
could it be that the new key that I had been using had a bad resistor in the key. It doesn't make sense to me because that system is turned off once the car is started.
Anyways my fingers are crossed that my problem is gone.
I drove around yesterday and just got back from a little road trip on Oklahoma bumpy Highway I-40.
She didn't blink once.
could it be that the new key that I had been using had a bad resistor in the key. It doesn't make sense to me because that system is turned off once the car is started.
Anyways my fingers are crossed that my problem is gone.
Gzes
the drifting 2dr
Is the key chipped? If so the. Yea that could be your problem but you said u had a broken ground cable so did u switch it or fix it?
beav626
Pretty Girls in your city for night
It is a transponder key, I believe all 200 and up GM SUV's are Transponder keys. No Chip in the metal but in the black housing.
As far as that ground. I just removed it.
Gzes
the drifting 2dr
Well in a 2000 explored I had 2 keys one that would just unlock it but If I stuck it in the ignition I couldn't turn it on cause there was no chip but if I got the one with a chip then it would start up and drive and whatever. You should put in a new ground wire tho
beav626
Pretty Girls in your city for night
Scratch they Key Idea- I took both keys on a little trip tonight... Both were OK.
Is it possible since I removed the ground from the hood to firewall that fixed it? Since it was loose could it have caused a problem. It doesn’t make sense to me I'm just happy no power loss right now.
Is it possible since I removed the ground from the hood to firewall that fixed it? Since it was loose could it have caused a problem. It doesn’t make sense to me I'm just happy no power loss right now.
Gzes
the drifting 2dr
Well if it's working now then I would say don't try to fix it if is already fixd or you might break it again
beav626
Pretty Girls in your city for night
Think I Isolated the problem... (Yes Im still at it)
First- I replaced the useless ground on the hood and visually checked all front grounds. (All Good)
The Short is happening much, much less frequently
I found a stretch h of road that would trigger the short. And I drove it a few times tonight. I found that by pushing in on the key (Towards the column) I wouldn’t short out.
If I let go of the key It would short out.
I've already replaced the Ignition Switch, so could it be the key mechanism? If I jiggle the key I cannot duplicate it, only over rough bumps..
First- I replaced the useless ground on the hood and visually checked all front grounds. (All Good)
The Short is happening much, much less frequently
I found a stretch h of road that would trigger the short. And I drove it a few times tonight. I found that by pushing in on the key (Towards the column) I wouldn’t short out.
If I let go of the key It would short out.
I've already replaced the Ignition Switch, so could it be the key mechanism? If I jiggle the key I cannot duplicate it, only over rough bumps..
beav626
Pretty Girls in your city for night
after 2 weeks its back again... It is much worse now. It is causing havoc on the engine and tranny along with the gauge and door locks.
Im wondering if it could be the PCM... Any help is appreciated.
Im wondering if it could be the PCM... Any help is appreciated.
beav626
Pretty Girls in your city for night
Bingo---Took it to local dealer today and we were talking about it and both agreed it to be the BCM... but he wanted to have someone diagnose it to be sure... I get a call back later saying the BCM is fine it is just one of the grounds on the back of the block... (I thought I checked all those) Anyways that’s the good news and truck is ready except the say i need to replace the pitman arm, Idler arm, and outer tie rod... (At least its not electrical)
