chevy_man
Member
I'm not sure I 100% understand what you're saying, are you refering to the cap or a second (gell cell) battery here?
The battery would be great but you still need to charge it. And the biggest thing about adding more batteries and caps is they only help for periods of time. This may be alright if you listen to mainly rap where you're only worried about short bursts, but listening to hard rock/metal where you have a constant driving beat means your amps/subs are working all the time and putting constant stress on your system.
The problem with capacitors is that their discharge and charge rates are so quick that they don't help in a car audio application. They are drained in milliseconds and then take milliseconds to charge.
Also, your amp shouldn't be getting any voltage spikes from the battery/alt unless your voltage regulator is bad.
The best thing you can do for voltage drop is larger wire. If you do the big 3 and run the largest wire your amp's terminal blocks will accept, you're doing all you can to eliminate volt-drop.
As I said before, another great solution is to jump up to the factory 145-160 amp alt either when you need it or yours is bad and you're buying one anyways. Hell, you don't need anything more than the 160 untill you're pushing 2-3K watts as long as you have heavy ga. wire and quality (efficient) amplifiers.
I should add I'm not trying to flame you, merely voicing my opinion that there are better places to spend your money for better system performance.
And for the big 3, I couldn't see a neg. wire from the battery to frame/block. If you don't do that then you're still relying on the small factory wire for all your power. All power is a loop, so it has to go from - to + which means one weak link makes the rest useless.
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