Looking to buy (private sale) a 07LT 4x4/166k (private seller) what should I really look out for in video test drive.

[TheAceOfSpades]

(In regards to engine,transmission and anything requiring more than 500 $ to fix it now or get it junked)

* tick,tick,tick,tick (AFM delete +2,500$)
*Rust love these
*likes to burn oil (how can I tell in a video)

I can live with all the stupid little annoying issues,but I do not want to end up with a 2,3,4 thousand dollar reapair within the next 5 years.

Easy to say take it to a mechanic,but not when dealing with a private seller 150 miles away. You try and make them lift a finger and they ghost you. (I lost two)

 

[91RS]

I don't think I would go through all the trouble either as a seller. If you're really serious about buying, go look at it yourself.

You're not going to be able to tell if it uses oil unless your test drive is about 1,000 miles. If it has never been fixed (new pistons and rings) just assume it is consuming.

 

[wsteele]

(In regards to engine,transmission and anything requiring more than 500 $ to fix it now or get it junked)

* tick,tick,tick,tick (AFM delete +2,500$)
*Rust love these
*likes to burn oil (how can I tell in a video)

I can live with all the stupid little annoying issues,but I do not want to end up with a 2,3,4 thousand dollar reapair within the next 5 years.

Easy to say take it to a mechanic,but not when dealing with a private seller 150 miles away. You try and make them lift a finger and they ghost you. (I lost two)

You will need detailed service records to have anything approaching confidence you are getting what you describe as your goal. Even then, unless it has had the AFM Oil Consumption TSB completed, you have a fairly big exposure sitting there on that front, maybe look at 11-13 model years to be assured those items aren't sitting out there.

Additionally, even if everything is done by the numbers and it checked out perfectly at a competent mechanic, there is no guarantee something wouldn't crop up that could easily cost $2K-$5K the day after you took delivery.

The reason I keep my 07 Yukon isn't because it may not have a $5K bill thrown at me next month. The reason I keep it is because I can't find anything better for my needs and my alternative is $10K a year in depreciation for a number of years, if I buy a new one.

 

[Bill 1960]

I‘m afraid your expectations are not realistic if you expect 5 years of service and no big bills at that mileage. Certainly it’s possible. But not likely. Probably needs a transmission at some point.

As a seller, I won’t deal with people that want me to jump through hoops either. The due diligence is the buyer’s task. And it’s a seller’s market right now.

Best of luck in your search.

 

[BG1988]

(In regards to engine,transmission and anything requiring more than 500 $ to fix it now or get it junked)

* tick,tick,tick,tick (AFM delete +2,500$)
*Rust love these
*likes to burn oil (how can I tell in a video)

I can live with all the stupid little annoying issues,but I do not want to end up with a 2,3,4 thousand dollar reapair within the next 5 years.

Easy to say take it to a mechanic,but not when dealing with a private seller 150 miles away. You try and make them lift a finger and they ghost you. (I lost two)

I would wait a month or two
50% off pricing coming soon

unless you come to california you can get a nice tahoe for under 10-15k make sure you have the title checked at AAA or DMV first before handing cashover... to make sure it's clear to register(if you buy from a private seller)


i would pay no more then 9300 for it small dealers are selling the same mileage for 10.9k

 

[jonnyj]

Yeah unfortunately it’s a sellers market right and for the seller to do the due diligence for a buyer is in my opinion asking too much.

but what you want like pointed out earlier is one with as complete service records as possible-this will give you some assurance on potential reliability.

 

[Ont240]

Have you heard of BLUEDRIVER bluetooth scan tool? Awsome tool.

BlueDriver Scan Tool | BlueDriver

www.bluedriver.com

Check for codes that may be stored and not being displayd. BD can tell how many miles/km since codes where cleared the last. Check and map live data while you are test driving. Make sure you go for at least a half hour drive so everything is at temp. Take a trolley jack. Check front for worn wheel bearings/ ball joints. Brake test at speed where conditions allow. Do 4wd functions all work? AC?
Lots of good advise above: DMV history, check both dip sticks
I have an 07 Tahoe LT/flex 5.3 4x4 that i purchased with 170K and no issues. Now has 300K.

 

[lightflyer1]

I bought mine ticking already and got it discounted because of it. Then fixed it right away and put a dongle on it to stop it from engaging anymore. Going to send the ecu off to have it permanently deleted. Bought for $3k and put $2200 more into it to fix it.

 

[Scott in AZ]

I don’t know that your expectations will match your experience if you buy this truck. If you plan to have it serviced by a trusted local shop like I do for repairs and heavy maintenance, you should budget around $2,000 per year. Front and rear brakes, $700. Transmission fluid flush, $300. Tires, another grand but then you need 4WD alignment. Your water pump will start leaking at some point in next few years and then you should also replace the radiator (plastic side caps) and thermostat assembly, that’s another grand-plus. Any given year you don’t get hit with a repair bill you should consider a proactive, preventive step like Front and rear shocks, which’ll run you a grand minimum depending on what suspension setup you have. Or coil, plugs and wires replacement. However it’s a great daily-driving full size SUV with heavy towing chops, for price up front and $1,000 - $2,000 per year of TLC. If that’s not your expectation, you should rethink buying a 15 year-old truck. Is what I think.

 

[Doubeleive]

both of you resurrected a 2yr old post