Leveling suggestions

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wsteele

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I have a 2007 Yukon SLT (original owner). Lately we have started driving a lot on fire roads and RV trails getting to trail heads we favor. As the roads get more gnarly, I have decided I want to trim the front air dam down to a stub (I have snagged that thing so many times over the years, torn it clean off a few times, I can't believe I still have it on).

Along with giving myself some more clearance up front by trimming the air dam, I plan to do a leveling kit, go back to stock 17" OE wheels and install some taller AT tires (tires are coming due pretty soon anyway).

So far my research says I have a few options on the leveling kit (lower versus upper spacers). Any suggestions, insights, personal nightmares, etc. would be greatly appreciated.

PS - Does anyone know if the autoride sensor on the front corners are just a rate of change sensor or does the static position matter? If the starting point matters (i.e. where the sensor arm is sitting when I start the car), then it sounds like I will have to add some length to the link when I add the leveling spacers. If it is just a rate of change monitor, then maybe it won't matter where the arm is positioned after the leveling spacer is inserted. (i.e. just a rate of change sensor to stiffen and soften the damping dynamically, which is what I thought autoride was all about).
 
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wsteele

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OK, at the risk of being accused of talking to myself, this is what I have decided to try on the leveling kit install on my Yukon.

I can't see a major advantage of one type of leveling approach (top or bottom spacer) and would rather not spend the money on a new dampener/spring setup, so I think I will try the cheap Rough Country leveling kit.

I contacted RC and they indicated their simple lower block spacer wouldn't work with my Autoride equipped Yukon. This tells me the front position sensors must be a real position sensor (like a potentiometer) and not just a rate of change sensor (a little generator).

So as part of the install, I will either fabricate an extension to the sensor mount or try and find a way to lengthen the rod on the sensor link so I can replicate the actual sensor arm starting position after the leveling block is installed as it was in stock configuration. The link extension seems like the simplest approach and probably has the most promise geometry wise, so this will be my favored first try.
 

Keanen55

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If you just looking to level the truck, they make a spacer that sits on top of the from shocks assembly. I gives the front an extra 1inch or 2 and it's cheap and easy to do. I guess would call that a body lift
 
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wsteele

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If you just looking to level the truck, they make a spacer that sits on top of the from shocks assembly. I gives the front an extra 1inch or 2 and it's cheap and easy to do. I guess would call that a body lift

Yeah that is what I am going to do, only I will use the RC spacer on the lower end, as it appears easier to install. The complication on my Yukon is the autoride sensor. I guess it is position sensitive, so for the autoride to work properly, I need to add a bracket extension or link extension to make the sensor think the body is in the stock ride position, after the spacer is inserted.
 

wjburken

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Yeah that is what I am going to do, only I will use the RC spacer on the lower end, as it appears easier to install. The complication on my Yukon is the autoride sensor. I guess it is position sensitive, so for the autoride to work properly, I need to add a bracket extension or link extension to make the sensor think the body is in the stock ride position, after the spacer is inserted.
You are correct about needing to modify the ride height sensor. Most guys just get a length of threaded rod and cut it to the length that is needed. Before making any modifications, I would mark, the best you can, the position of the height sensor arms with the vehicle at rest and then use that as a guide for repositioning it. You likely still need to have a dealer or someone with a Tech2 recalibrate the AutoLevel system.
 
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wsteele

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You are correct about needing to modify the ride height sensor. Most guys just get a length of threaded rod and cut it to the length that is needed. Before making any modifications, I would mark, the best you can, the position of the height sensor arms with the vehicle at rest and then use that as a guide for repositioning it. You likely still need to have a dealer or someone with a Tech2 recalibrate the AutoLevel system.

I plan to try and get the clocking of the sensor arm as precise as I can. I am going to take my time and experiment with extensions to try and get the geometry through the body motion as close as I can as well. I have a good relationship with my dealer, so if it needs to be reset with the Tech II, hopefully they can accommodate me.
 
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wsteele

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You are correct about needing to modify the ride height sensor. Most guys just get a length of threaded rod and cut it to the length that is needed. Before making any modifications, I would mark, the best you can, the position of the height sensor arms with the vehicle at rest and then use that as a guide for repositioning it. You likely still need to have a dealer or someone with a Tech2 recalibrate the AutoLevel system.

Do you happen know if the ball ends of the link are standard thread in both ends? Looking at them, I don’t see jam nuts, so I assume they are not adjustable in place. Actually, looking closely, I can’t see any threads, so am not sure if the ball ends are even threaded.
 

wjburken

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wsteele

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The rod ends should be threaded onto the rod. Here is a link to some adjustable rods.
https://www.suspensionshop.com/gm-s...e-magnetic-ride-adjustable-height-sensor-rod/

Thanks for that, that helps a lot. It looks like standard thread (versus one standard and one reverse). Seems to me, if I measure the stock ride height precisely enough and then measure it again with the spacers in place, and make the additional rod length that additional length, it should get me close sensor arm clocking wise. I think I will also take a look at the link angle versus the wheel travel and see if I can dig out my old math and adjust for the motion ratio. If I get that all right, the sensor arm should be pretty darn close to where it started before the spacer. Some fun.
 
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wsteele

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Kind of interesting, looking at the front sensor links more closely, they appear to be almost vertical (as opposed to the rears that are at a pretty severe angle). With that vertical alignment I think just an extended rod between the mini ball joints that make up the sensor links will work pretty well. Even though the angle changes a little in bump and droop, throughout the whole range, it doesn't look like the motion ratio will change enough that a straight "one for one, lift to link extension dimension" should work fine.

Another interesting find is my positive rake is only about 1.625" measured from the center of the wheel wells (front to back), so I may elect to go with another brand spacer that offers an overall 1.5" leveling.

Anyway, that is all to report today.
 

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