Leveling Kit - Upper Strut Spacers Vs. Lower Block Spacers

[BlaineBug]

It seems to me that upper strut spacers would be the way to go and sound a lot stronger than implementing a block spacer beneath the strut in-between the lower control arm and strut mounting point. The combination of the block and longer bolts required introduces additional leverage which, in my opinion, isn't a good thing for a steer axle! Another thing I never see mentioned in any installation instructions is the loosening of all 8 control arm bolts, and then torquing them down at ride height. If you aren't "resetting" the control arm bushings after installing any lift kit, they will be under constant stress and flex/twist at normal ride height which isn't a good thing. Bushings are designed to be in their neutral state at ride height and only flex one way or the other when the suspension compresses or retracts while driving down the road.

 

[iamdub]

It seems to me that upper strut spacers would be the way to go and sound a lot stronger than implementing a block spacer beneath the strut in-between the lower control arm and strut mounting point. The combination of the block and longer bolts required introduces additional leverage which, in my opinion, isn't a good thing for a steer axle! Another thing I never see mentioned in any installation instructions is the loosening of all 8 control arm bolts, and then torquing them down at ride height. If you aren't "resetting" the control arm bushings after installing any lift kit, they will be under constant stress and flex/twist at normal ride height which isn't a good thing. Bushings are designed to be in their neutral state at ride height and only flex one way or the other when the suspension compresses or retracts while driving down the road.

IMO, it depends on the amount of lift. Personally, I wouldn't go more than a 2" lift (~1" block) with a bottom strut spacer. There's not a whole lot of lateral load on the lower part of the strut, evident by the relatively small diameter bolts and clip nuts the factory uses to secure the strut. As for the top strut spacers, I'd reserve those for whatever lift amount exceeds needing to cut a lot off the strut studs. It shouldn't take more than 1.5"-2" to level the front of one of these with the rear, so a bottom strut spacer is fine. Cheaper, too.

My personal experience is with a 2" front lift. I just got a $25 kit off Amazon- Billet aluminum, anodized black. It came with Grade 5 hardware that seemed fine, but I soon swapped it for Grade 8 for the cheap peace of mind. I never gave it a second thought and drove it just as hard as always, and I like taking turns fast.

I agree with your point on "resetting" the bushings. But, with such a small lift, I'd say that amount of rotation at the bushing end is very minimal. I don't think it's a problem at all, especially on used/aged/well-broken-in bushings.

 

[BlaineBug]

Thanks for the words of advice. I'm not especially sold on the idea of a level kit yet because i took some measurements yesterday, and at least what I have measured, there is maybe 1" difference between front and rear as it sits.

These measurements were taking from the bottom front edge and bottom rear edge of the factory side steps on the left and right side.

Front Left: 10-3/4"
Front Right: 11-1/8"
Rear Left: 12"
Rear Right: 12-1/2"

So on average there's barely 1" difference from front to rear. I think potentially the "rake" looks more extreme than it really is in practice. And if I slipped in a 3/4" spacer (most of the sellers I have spoke with tell me their spacers are just barely beneath 1") I would potentially be lifting the front too far, as most kits are "advertised" as being 1.5" or 2" level kits.

 

[iamdub]

Thanks for the words of advice. I'm not especially sold on the idea of a level kit yet because i took some measurements yesterday, and at least what I have measured, there is maybe 1" difference between front and rear as it sits.

These measurements were taking from the bottom front edge and bottom rear edge of the factory side steps on the left and right side.

Front Left: 10-3/4"
Front Right: 11-1/8"
Rear Left: 12"
Rear Right: 12-1/2"

So on average there's barely 1" difference from front to rear. I think potentially the "rake" looks more extreme than it really is in practice. And if I slipped in a 3/4" spacer (most of the sellers I have spoke with tell me their spacers are just barely beneath 1") I would potentially be lifting the front too far, as most kits are "advertised" as being 1.5" or 2" level kits.

Leveling is for appearance. Factors such as fender arch shape, the running boards, body lines, windows, etc. all affect how it appears to you.

Be sure all your tires are properly inflated and park on a flat, level surface. Measure the front at the center of the fender arch to the ground in a vertical line that passes through the center of the wheel. Normally, I'd say to measure from the fender to the center of the wheel cap to rule out tire variances, but to the ground is fine and easier in this case. Put a floor jack under the center of the front cross member and raise the front a little. Step back and assess. Raise and/or lower it until it sits how you like it then measure the fender arch again. This will tell you how much of a lift you need to make it sit how you want it. For a 1" lift, the spacer will be barely 1/2" thick. That's nothing dangerous by any stretch for an under-strut spacer and too minimal to worry with resetting the bushings.

 

[BlaineBug]

I took some more measurements today, this time from the floor of my garage to the bottom of the frame. 3 tires at 35 PSI and 1 at 36 PSI according to dash display.

Front Left = 11-5/8"
Front Right = 11-7/8"
Rear Left = 12-1/4"
Rear Right = 12-1/8"

So when using the frame as reference there is less than an inch of difference from front to rear. That's pretty level. I don't have much weight but I have a tool box, some shackles, straps, and 3 inserts for the hitch receiver, so maybe 75 pounds in weight in the back at all times.

I'd have to say with such little difference being reported, I don't think I have any desire for a "leveling kit" at this time after all.

Maybe it's the trucks with the rear leafs that have a more significant difference from front to rear?

P.S. - Picture is 2 years old.

 

[iamdub]

I took some more measurements today, this time from the floor of my garage to the bottom of the frame. 3 tires at 35 PSI and 1 at 36 PSI according to dash display.

Front Left = 11-5/8"
Front Right = 11-7/8"
Rear Left = 12-1/4"
Rear Right = 12-1/8"

So when using the frame as reference there is less than an inch of difference from front to rear. That's pretty level. I don't have much weight but I have a tool box, some shackles, straps, and 3 inserts for the hitch receiver, so maybe 75 pounds in weight in the back at all times.

I'd have to say with such little difference being reported, I don't think I have any desire for a "leveling kit" at this time after all.

Maybe it's the trucks with the rear leafs that have a more significant difference from front to rear?

P.S. - Picture is 2 years old.

That's an ideal amount of rake. It allows for passenger and cargo weight with no sagging as well as more optimum aerodynamics. If leveled, you might notice a full mile per gallon loss of fuel economy, if not more, depending on your average speeds. I'd leave it.