leveling kit, rough ride & still rubbing with 33s

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YukonandtheHOE

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Can you elaborate a little more? What do you mean by 24" and 24"? My tires are actually 275/70R/18s, I had it incorrect in my previous post. Would a different size wheel make a difference with this tire?

The roads are rough here too...I live in DFW and there is constant road work.
Ooh haha i thought you were on 28" inch rims. What is the ply rating and air pressure in your tires?
 
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paintpollz

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Thats your rough ride right their! Try running them down to 30psi!
10 plys are for 1tons lol

Haha understood. But what about everyone else that is running 33s on 1/2 tons? Aren't most of them E rated?

I went with the BFG A/Ts because of reputation, and I've had smaller sizes on smaller SUVs and they've been great tires. Now that I have this Tahoe and wanted to run a little lift with some bigger tires, I ended up with a truck that sounds it's getting shot at when it goes over a bump. And then it feels like an earthquake.
 
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TheAutumnWind

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Haha understood. But what about everyone else that is running 33s on 1/2 tons? Aren't most of them E rated?

I went with the BFG A/Ts because of reputation, and I've had smaller sizes on smaller SUVs and they've been great tires. Now that I have this Tahoe and wanted to run a little lift with some bigger tires, I ended up with a truck that sounds it's getting shot at when it goes over a bump. And then it feels like an earthquake.

You may simply be running out of suspension travel. Cheap spacer lifts like that simply trade droop for static height. I don't remember what the droop stop is like on the NNBS but you could see if you notice any increased wear there. If you are bottoming out on the droop stop often then that is your issue with ride quality. You could run new arms designed for lifts with increased travel in mind and that may alleviate the problem, or you need a drop bracket style lift to return lost suspension travel.
 
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YukonandtheHOE

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Haha understood. But what about everyone else that is running 33s on 1/2 tons? Aren't most of them E rated?

I went with the BFG A/Ts because of reputation, and I've had smaller sizes on smaller SUVs and they've been great tires. Now that I have this Tahoe and wanted to run a little lift with some bigger tires, I ended up with a truck that sounds it's getting shot at when it goes over a bump. And then it feels like an earthquake.
I run 33" red letter grabber's in the winter on the HOE, 10plys and 50psi. Rides like a lumber wagon.. but im used to it.. my other "summer "vehicle is a lumber wagon hehe
Edit:

IMG_0259.JPG

:win:
 
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TheAutumnWind

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Haha understood. But what about everyone else that is running 33s on 1/2 tons? Aren't most of them E rated?

I went with the BFG A/Ts because of reputation, and I've had smaller sizes on smaller SUVs and they've been great tires. Now that I have this Tahoe and wanted to run a little lift with some bigger tires, I ended up with a truck that sounds it's getting shot at when it goes over a bump. And then it feels like an earthquake.

I'd imagine lots are running a D code tire for most lifted pavement queens. Seems silly to run a super stiff sidewall for something that isn't going to see any rocks or heavy towing to me.
 

NGAneer

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Thats your rough ride right their! Try running them down to 30psi!
10 plys are for 1tons lol

I've got 10-ply 305/55s running 40-44 psi and it's not that bad. Not that different than the stock tires. I'd guess it was bottoming out the travel or maybe you've just got to get used to it.
 
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paintpollz

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You may simply be running out of suspension travel. Cheap spacer lifts like that simply trade droop for static height. I don't remember what the droop stop is like on the NNBS but you could see if you notice any increased wear there. If you are bottoming out on the droop stop often then that is your issue with ride quality. You could run new arms designed for lifts with increased travel in mind and that may alleviate the problem, or you need a drop bracket style lift to return lost suspension travel.

Thank you for the explanation, this is very thorough and helpful to me. I will look into this more.

I run 33" red letter grabber's in the winter on the HOE, 10plys and 50psi. Rides like a lumber wagon.. but im used to it.. my other "summer "vehicle is a lumber wagon hehe
Edit:

Nice looking truck!

I'd imagine lots are running a D code tire for most lifted pavement queens. Seems silly to run a super stiff sidewall for something that isn't going to see any rocks or heavy towing to me.

Aren't most 33s E rated?
 

YukonandtheHOE

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I've got 10-ply 305/55s running 40-44 psi and it's not that bad. Not that different than the stock tires. I'd guess it was bottoming out the travel or maybe you've just got to get used to it.

I run 10ply Superswamper 35x12.5r20 @ 55psi on my OBS yukon.. no complaits here.. but they do have spongy sidewalls.. i know from experience BFG's are one hell of a stiff tire aswell as the Redletter's paintpollz is probably used to the cushy ride of the 6plys that were on it..
 
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paintpollz

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I run 10ply Superswamper 35x12.5r20 @ 55psi on my OBS yukon.. no complaits here.. but they do have spongy sidewalls.. i know from experience BFG's are one hell of a stiff tire aswell as the Redletter's paintpollz is probably used to the cushy ride of the 6plys that were on it..

that I am....however I don't think its just the tire. I think it is partially due to the geometry suspension right now. I also cannot believe that I have not heard more complaints from people on this forum that have leveled their trucks with larger tires. I thought I was covering my bases by using a brand name leveling kit & shocks. Lesson learned!!!

"Tires Cole! Tires' what wins the race!"
 

YukonandtheHOE

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Weird, I have 2.5 RC level in the front on stock struts and stock rear hight. Not one issue to be had. But i did get some 2500 stablinks because they are a bit longer..
 

TheAutumnWind

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Weird, I have 2.5 RC level in the front on stock struts and stock rear hight. Not one issue to be had. But i did get some 2500 stablinks because they are a bit longer..

Rides like a lumber wagon.. but im used to it..

That is the exact "problem" that the OP is having. You just don't see it as a problem which is fine.
 

TheAutumnWind

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Thank you for the explanation, this is very thorough and helpful to me. I will look into this more.



Nice looking truck!



Aren't most 33s E rated?

You can find d rated 33's. Might be limited options I suppose. I had 8 ply 285's on my old truck.

Also, no problem. Hope ya get it figured out. likely your ride quality is due to multiple things, but reduced droop will definitely make it feel more rough on bumpy roads, if you run out of downtravel you will feel the suspension bottom out as its a metal on metal stop IIRC, and then the tire is in the air, and then the tire slams into the ground. This of course happens quickly, and doesn't feel good, especially so with stiff sidewalls on the street.
 
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NGAneer

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There are plenty of C and D rate 33x12.50s out there if I recall.
 
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paintpollz

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I run 10ply Superswamper 35x12.5r20 @ 55psi on my OBS yukon.. no complaits here.. but they do have spongy sidewalls.. i know from experience BFG's are one hell of a stiff tire aswell as the Redletter's paintpollz is probably used to the cushy ride of the 6plys that were on it..

I am used to the cushy 6 plys.

Can someone recommend a new 6 ply tire in size 275/70R-18? I'm going to ditch the BFGs, they are just too stiff for a pavement crawler. Sucks cuz they are such a great tire when you need the offroad performance, and they look awesome too.

I can't really find any good matches. I like that tire size on the stock Z71 wheels because it fills out the wheel well nicely.

Thanks for the help.
 

NGAneer

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They have a bunch of sizes, check their website. I'd be going with 295/70/18.
 

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